I am planning to do a Burnt Wood stock refinish job to one of my rifles...

Could you share some pics?

Wanted to re-shape a stock and a light/lt-med propane torch job to bring out the contrast in grain...

Then, seal with a sanding sealer, then TRU-OIL it with a bunch of light coats once the pores are all good...

Its all new to me!!!

Could you share some thoughts on it?

Thanks guys...

What kinda wood? I've heard of doing this to maple probably in an old G&A .

its called sugi or something liek that...
toasted wood..

do NOT burn it...

used a wash clothe, and a heat gun....

I use a propane torch with a wide tip. Move the torch quickly across the stock.....don't let it stand in one place. There's a fine difference between "toasted" and "charred".

As jeffeosso stated above, use a wet cloth and rub it over the fine edges of wood before torching those areas. Then watch them carefully......the water will evaporate quickly and those edges burn easily.

You'll see the color change and contrast coming up as the stock gets toasted. Resist the temptation to try and make more contrast, or more even contrast than what the stock is giving. It's the best way to get a charred area. And then you're starting over with some sanding and fill to do.

quote:

It's the best way to get a charred area.

Speaking from experience that char can be a real b!tch to remove.

Roy Dunlap and Monte Kennedy both used to do some Suigi finishes, as did Al Linden. There are descriptions of the process in both Dunlap's and Kennedy's books.

Another handy source of info on the process is in A. Donald Newell's book, "Gunstock Finishing and Care", Small Arms Technical Publishing Company (Samworth), 1949, Georgetown, South Carolina, Pages 84-89. If you can find a copy at the library, it is worth reading.

I'm a real fan of Linden......as much for his writing as for his customs. I have one of his rifles. This is a very late Linden custom with a suigi finish. In spots I think it's really close to overdone. But then, Alvin Linden had a helluva lot more experience with it than myself.

As a point of interest......I've always been kind of curious about this particular rifle. I don't know how long Douglas Barrels have been in existence, but Linden died in 1946......long before the 358 Winchester was introduced.

Linden Suigi finish

Roast marshmallows not wood!

I knew I could count on you guys...

This is the exact type of info I was looking for...

I thank SAEED and all to a great forum where most people are kind and generous and care enough to share their HUMBLE opinions with alot of CLASS...

Thanks again!!!

Ro

I'm a pretty "EXACTING" guy and I'm sure I could pull off something really nice for MY TASTES...

Thanks for the references and the TERM...

Done on the right piece, the results could be INCREDIBLE...

I do believe I have THE PIECE...

I will posts here when done....

Grand View I appreciate the pics!!!

That is very close to what I have in mind and I "hope" that I can PULL IT OFF...

I BELIEVE I can....

Those pics have inspired me and destiny lays at the door...grins...I'm gonna give it my best!!!

For the same results with less risk get the acid Dixie gunworks sells to bring out the tiger stripes in maple. Ive done both ways and the acid works better and is pretty much fool proof.
IMHO
Dean

quote:

Originally posted by tonto:
For the same results with less risk get the acid Dixie gunworks sells to bring out the tiger stripes in maple. Ive done both ways and the acid works better and is pretty much fool proof.

Chromium Trioxide.

I've not tried it, but I would surely experiment with it. It's not a dye or stain as such.....it produces a chemical reaction with the wood.

If it yields a finish you're satisfied with, it would likely be easier to work in tight areas than a flame. I've read differing techniques, ie....how long to leave it on and when to wipe off. Also.......READ AND FOLLOW SAFETY PRECAUTIONS with this stuff. Apparently it's not for the careless.

We haven't specifically mentioned it in this thread, but any of these techniques are typically used on very light wood such as maple.......or myrtlewood in some cases.

I appreciate the added info!!!

I'm going to do some in-depth reading about these methods before I choose one...

Thanks again!

There are also some tips in the Newell book on how to show "grain" where there isn't any (!!), again using a torch. He also has a number of tips on what not to do, and why, to avoid making a mess of things.

Some of the stuff is really useful, too....such as playing a broad flame ACROSS the grain at almost right angles to it, rather than moving the torch ALONG the grain from directly above it, etc. (Across the grain tends to highlight the borders between softer wood and the harder streaks, thus emphasizing what little grain may exist....)

AC...

Great Stuff!!!

I'll get the book and get into it and practice on some other wood stuffs first...

I appreciate the info!!!