I have two Argentine actions that I had re-hardened at Pacific Metallurgical; when you get them back, they are very dull looking & require final polishing. How do you guys recommend doing this ? Also, any precautions relative to over-polishing/polishing too deep ?

I hab the same thing on a Peruvian. It is being barreled. Now. When I get it back I thought I would try Flitz

It really depends on the look you are going for. If you need to pull dings and dents out you should use stones to help keep your edges and lettering sharp. They will cut but it would have been easier if you removed dings and dents before re-heat treating. In my opinion I would stay away from buffing wheels because you will usually end up with round edges and dished holes/lettering/stampings.

If you just need to polish them up for bluing then you can basically do whatever you want to them. If you want a dull finish you could simply bead blast them. One step further would be to bead blast them and then burnish them with a fine wire wheel. If I owned them I would hand polish them with emery cloth to at least a 320-400 grit. You can get a nice satin sheen this way using denatured alcohol or even cutting oil as a lubricant. If its too bright for you rub it down with grey scotch-brite after you polish it up.

Are you planning on rust bluing or hot bluing them when youre done?

wirewheel to start

They will probably be hot blued. I've never used a wire wheel; wouldn't that be too abrasive ?

Mold makers stones Like guesswienn edm blue
Mineral spirits as a cutting oil and the sand paper with backing. Do not use polishing wheels unless you are very experienced. Stones may be slower but the quality and finish is much better. You can lightly bead blast to remove any scale. There should be none but even in the best heat treat shops you may have a tad of scale here and there

Was the action polished before it was hardened? If so I like to use red 3M pads. If it was not polished prior, I use a similar process as kcstott.

However, instead of mineral spirits I prefer BoriLube. Use a lot of fluid, the soft steel of your mauser receiver will easily clog the stone.

depends on the brush material, shape, and how its used ... round tip, thick, stainless on a 8" wheel on a bench top grinder, lightly applied, will buff, not gouge... and, at least for me, NOT make it wavy/ruin letters and lines, like a heavy hand on a rouge wheel

quote:

Originally posted by jeffeosso:
depends on the brush material, shape, and how its used ... round tip, thick, stainless on a 8" wheel on a bench top grinder, lightly applied, will buff, not gouge... and, at least for me, NOT make it wavy/ruin letters and lines, like a heavy hand on a rouge wheel

That is a good point and not well known. Stainless wire wheels wear their tips down in a rounded pattern which is easy on metal surfaces. Carbon steel brushed wear flat at the tips and are much more aggressive. On the offshore platform cleaning projects divers always use carbon steel wire wheels for that reason to remove barnacles and other calciferous deposits.

Not to get off the subject, but how much does it cost to have them reharden?

quote:

Originally posted by blagg:
Not to get off the subject, but how much does it cost to have them reharden?

I had two done by Pacmet maybe 4 years back and if IRC it was $85 each. I'm sure the cost has increased by now.

very informative this also answears some questions for me. thank you