I've used JB-Weld for lots of things and it seems like pretty good stuff. Was thinking about using it for a bedding job, since I already have it on hand. However, I've never heard of anyone else doing so. Any reason not to use it?

it's brittle...

jeffe

There was a thread on here awhile back about using J-B Weld for bedding and if I recall correctly according to those who had tried it Jeffeoso is right...they said it was real brittle and chipped and cracked after awhile.

Has anybody tried the 2 part devcon epoxy in the roll? you cut off how much and knead it together like dough. supposed to be exactly like devcon but in a more manageable easy to use format.(similar to the jb-weld stik).

I used it on a super-light 270 and it has held up well.

If using J-B, what do you use for release agent?

quote:

Originally posted by bwanajcj:
Has anybody tried the 2 part devcon epoxy in the roll? you cut off how much and knead it together like dough. supposed to be exactly like devcon but in a more manageable easy to use format.(similar to the jb-weld stik).

I’ve used Devcon Titanium epoxy that comes in a dual sided plunger tube that you can buy at Home Depot and it works fine if you don’t need the flow characteristics of a thinner epoxy. It works really well for the initial bonding of the pillars prior to finishing off the rest of the bedding job, and it doesn’t drip and run out the bottom like the thinner stuff does.

Any release agent or paste wax will work with any type of epxoy I have ever used and I suppose it would also work with J-B Weld as well.

The two part stuff you knead is for repair, and not much good for that...It is too thick for bedding as the metal will not settle properly on its weight...I have not used it but I did have some and could tell it wasn't an option for glassing a rifle or repairing cracked stocks, it would be better suited to patching a hole in your muffler IMO....

JB Weld is brittle for sure....Personally I like Marine Tex from Brownells best, but Brownells Glass bed gel is the easiest to use for the beginner...Micro bed is a good beginners bedding compound..I use it on pattern stocks mostly...

If the Devcon epoxy in the roll, the puddy stuff that you pinch a piece off and work together is the same thing I'm thinking...............I've yet find a use for, it gets hard and my wifes head, but it wont stick to anything, or at least anything on my old 47 willys jeep. I sure wouldn't try to use it on a firearm.

I'm not a big fan of JB weld either, I would choose alum foil and duct tape to fix a muffler before I would use JB weld, but if a tube of JB weld and cracked water pump on my old jeep miles from home.........JB weld would be my friend

I am not sure about using it strictly as the bedding compound .. However I know that many of the best benchrest shooters in the county have bedded with Marine Tex or Devcon and then glued their actions to that bed with J-B Weld. And with such rifles won every event in the nation including the Super Shoot, the IBS Nationals and the NBRSA Nationals. But this is a somewhat different application than using it as the bedding compound.

I used it to bed the action/BBL of a custom .22 lr I built, used plain cooking oil as a release agent.. worked fine for that, also used the putty JB for my Ruger 77/22 Hornet to bed the rear of the barrel and free floated the tipp, that was the only way I got it to shoot good.

Kinda depends on what you're bedding for. If you just want a "platform" for your action, and the recoil's not too bad, that's one thing. However, properly bedding a stock includes sealing the action area against the elements, and providing as much sealing as possible against the steel of the action. AcraGlass liquid will soak into your wood a little, and makes a great barrel channel "varnish" if you will, the Gel is great around the action as it will "flow" well around corners and give you a very tight fit when complete. I don't know about the shrinkage factors of the other compounds you mention, but what's wrong with using the stuff designed for the bedding job? Beginner or Expert?

Safe Hunting
Clint

quote:

Originally posted by Member199:
Kinda depends on what you're bedding for. If you just want a "platform" for your action, and the recoil's not too bad, that's one thing. However, properly bedding a stock includes sealing the action area against the elements, and providing as much sealing as possible against the steel of the action. AcraGlass liquid will soak into your wood a little, and makes a great barrel channel "varnish" if you will, the Gel is great around the action as it will "flow" well around corners and give you a very tight fit when complete. I don't know about the shrinkage factors of the other compounds you mention, but what's wrong with using the stuff designed for the bedding job? Beginner or Expert?

Safe Hunting
Clint

Clint,

First, welcome aboard!

2nd, What an incredible concept...ye ole round peg in ye ole round hole!!!

JB weld is primarily designed as a high strength adhesive...where recommended rifle bedding epoxies are designed more with compression resistance, sealing against moisture, and very little shrinkage in mind. They also have incredible adhesion capabilities...but that isn’t necessarily what makes them preferred for bedding material.

The gun in question is a .308 Tikka with a synthetic stock, so there is no need for "sealing the wood". I think very little epoxy would be needed for the job. I am a beginner. I don't plan to bed the recoil lug, as it seems to fit perfectly as-is. I just want ensure a perfect in the areas around the action screws and eliminate any movement of the action within the stock. There isn't much contact area between the action and the stock, so I want to make sure it can't roll or shift.

quote:

Originally posted by MarkL:
The gun in question is a .308 Tikka with a synthetic stock, so there is no need for "sealing the wood". I think very little epoxy would be needed for the job. I am a beginner. I don't plan to bed the recoil lug, as it seems to fit perfectly as-is. I just want ensure a perfect in the areas around the action screws and eliminate any movement of the action within the stock. There isn't much contact area between the action and the stock, so I want to make sure it can't roll or shift.

That is exactly why you want bedding material that is designed for compression resistance rather than for its adhesive properties. It might also be wise to consider that McMillan “seals†their synthetic stocks against moisture...and I think that McMillan knows a thing or two about what synthetic stocks need and don’t need.

In my opinion, you are foolish to bed an action and forget about the area that by its very name (RECOIL LUG) was designed to receive and help distribute the forces of recoil. It doesn’t take much uneven pressure or space behind the recoil lug to allow recoil forces to go to areas that were not designed to handle them, or to unevenly distribute the forces to the stock. If you bed the recoil lug you can assure that it is square and flush on the back and that is is not bearing on the bottom, front and sides. That’s pretty difficult to do just by “looking†at it.

If you are going to take the time and effort to bed your rifle you will be far happier with the results if you do it properly and with the proper material. Just my opinion!