hello all.
I have a factory remington plastic stock for a second stock on my mtn rifle.It needs some freshening up and I was considering spray on epoxy.I will scuff the stock first,will the epoxy adhear and stick to the plastic?Any previous experiences always appreciated..RB

The only way you will get paint to stick to that stock is the use 3M Polyolefin adhesion promoter. Otherwise you will have no shot of getting paint to adhere over time without it looking like shit after a couple years.

-Mike

I've painted a few Rem stocks over the yrs. Scuff them with 180 grit, make sure you have all the oil removed, I hang mine in the hot texas sun, spray with black undercoating and let it dry for a day or so and then paint with what ever you like, then I spray a clear coat with tru oil spray and knock the shine off with steel wool. I've had some done like this for 7 or 8 yrs.

My real recommendation is throw the rem plastic stock away and get a hogue or a B&C which are both good cheap stocks for the money.

ain't this why we have nice wood stocks with oil finishes

quote:

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Originally posted by butchloc:
ain't this why we have nice wood stocks with oil finishes

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It probably is, but I would have more money in my pocket if I I had not have reaquired a liking for wood. I have one blank being turned, two I don't know what to do with, one almost inletted, another two not sure what to do with but bet i think of something.

Scuff with sandpaper or lighly sandblast, remove all oil and spray with Brownell's AlumaHyde II (various colors). Let dry for a week. If you want a somewhat rougher texture, after sanding/blasting/degreasing, spray with truck bed liner, let dry then lightly paint with AlumaHyde II.

Ruttinbuck,

You've already received some good advice here. I wouldn't refer to myself as an expert but as a lefty who has converted a number of right hand "plastic" and laminated stocks over to the port side to fit most common left-hand actions, well.....let's say I've some experience.

1. You can leave it the way it is and just re-finish or add features you may desire to the basic stock, palm swell, pistol grip increase, decrease widths etc. as long as you don't sand scrape or whittle through the stock shell and in some places it won't be over 3/16" thick.

2. Flat black undercoating or automotive flat paint black will cover up almost any slight imperfections as long as the big chinks and chunks have been filled with accra glass, steel bed, epoxy etc. ensure anything or anyplace on the stock where you "add" onto it is done on a spot that has been completely sandpapered or roughed up first. This makes a solid undercoat for a started and makes the final coat easier to work with (color you want the stock to be).

3. There are countless spray paint options on the market, some advertised specifically for synthetic stocks, like Brownell's products (which are REALLY good) also spray paints for patio furniture, grills, metal fencing, automotive use are all excellent and they come in any number of colors and finishes from very smooth to wrinkle & crinkle finishes, camoflauge, marble effect, spiderweb, etc, Your imagination is the only limiting factor.

4. Using 3M Polyolefin adhesion is a great idea because to make anything stick and survive for more than a couple weeks on a stock that is reguarly used for hunting. As the Texan sun drying story relates the under & final coats will have to be cured, direct warm (read hot) sunshine works O.K. but either a UV food warmer overnight or placing in an automotive paintshop curing room (also UV) will ensure the paint is correctly cured. You'll know it's not cured as it will feel tacky for a long time after painting and start to wear off immediately.

4. It will then have to covered with a final clear coating AND cured again.

5. I've done about 7 stocks this way and they last a pretty long time before they start showing signs of requiring re-finishing.

Cheers,

Gerry

thanks for the input guys.
Would acetone work as a degreaser-reducer?I am thinking the acetone would open the plastic surface enough to ensure proper adhesion.I have'nt heard of the brownell's alumahyde paints but will see if I can get them in Canada.
I would like to end up with a sage/desert looking paint job sealed with clear topcoat.
Does the undercoat spray on smooth and thin?Is there some trial and error involved before you get an even thin coat.regards RB

ruttinbuck,

the undercoating/bedlinner spray goes on pretty rough, but smoothes out some when it dries. The distance you hold the spray has something to do with that also. Some of the stuff is better than others. Something else that works to is a 3m spray from the body shop supplies. Its used on car hoods and rocker pannels. Its tan and is made to be painted over, but it cost about 15 20 bucks a can. I havent done one is several yrs, but I degreassed the ones I did with brake cleaner. Which everway you do it, let it dry a couple of weeks or so.

Ive not tyried any of this as Im pretty much a wood stock guy, but wouldnt spray on bedliner, paint and then clear coat go a long way toward filling up the checkering grooves?

1/2 a gallon of gas and an ignition source, to keep you warm while you restock it properly? IN WOOD!!!

jeffe

Well Mr.Jeffeosso,I can tell you are a tad predjudice in your opinions.
I have a really nice walnut stock that is used when the terrain is less challenging.When I am chasing MTN critters I use the plastic stock,I feel better when I see new scratches and gouges in that stock.
regards ruttinbuck

RB,
I am fairly well known for acknowleding that a synthetic rifle can take a beating...

and that I 99 to 1 prefer wood!!

no offense meant, pard
jeffe

A flame finish wood be interesting on a plastic stock.

Maybe sprinkle some 4831 on one side evenly and light her up. Flip it over and do the other side.

Might be a interesting texture.

Seriously

Maybe mask of some Fleur de lys on the grip and foreend and sprinkle on some powder for a nice textured grip