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Custom Gunsmiths I Need Your Help--Blank Size
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If I need a stock that is ~15 inches in LOP and I want a stock like the Reno Accounting (long straight classic with a semi pistol grip) guns with a little longer forearm, say an additional 2 inches, what blank size will I need before machining? I plan on using a 2 ½ inch (finished length) Nigerian ebony forend tip

I am concerned that I will purchase a blank that is too small to make the length of either the forearm, or especially the butt of the rifle.
 
Posts: 3284 | Location: Mountains of Northern California | Registered: 22 November 2005Reply With Quote
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I am not a smith, but I would think that for any smith to answer this question they would need to know what action you are going to use, and what length barrel you are going to have.

I could be wrong, but Just to be safe You would probably need to add the length of pull, plus the remaining length of the action in front of the trigger, plus 1/2 the length of the barrel(and adding in your extra 1-2 inches), plus an inch or two on either end for machining or work holding.
 
Posts: 7090 | Registered: 11 January 2005Reply With Quote
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The rifle is going to be in a Montana short action 1999 that takes a 3.125 inch overall cartrige length.
quote:
Receiver Material & Hardness 4140 or 415, Rc 42-45
Receiver Ring Outer Diameter 1.340" (34mm)
Receiver Thread 1.0-16 UNF-2B
Thread Depth To Mauser Collar .750" (19.0mm)
Recoil Lug Thickness .377" (9.6mm)
Recoil Lug Width 1.165" (29.6mm)
Recoil Lug Depth .400" (10.2mm)
Guard Screw Spacing 7.025"
Receiver Base Width 1.165" (29.6mm)
Internal Magazine Length 3.125" (92.6mm)
Bolt Material & Hardness 4140 or 415, Rc 44-48
Bolt Diameter .698" (17.7mm)
Scope Base Spacing - Front .862" (21.9mm)
Scope Base Spacing - Rear 862"
Scope Base Spacing - Front To Rear 4.507" (see note)
Action Weight 40 oz

Note: Scope hole spacing of 4.507" is from the rear hole on the front ring to the rear hole on the rear bridge.



There will be a Lothar Walther barrel that is 25 inches long is what resembles an H&H period contour or an Mauser Type E contour.

No butt pad, we will be using a plate instead. LOP Needs to be 15 inches.
 
Posts: 3284 | Location: Mountains of Northern California | Registered: 22 November 2005Reply With Quote
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Shouldn't be an issue... just make sure it's thicker than 2 3/8, and tell the guy a "large" size pattern.

what wood are you wanting?

jeffe


opinions vary band of bubbas and STC hunting Club

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What is an AR round? Case Drawings 416-458-470AR and 500AR.
476AR,
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Posts: 40232 | Location: Conroe, TX | Registered: 01 June 2002Reply With Quote
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I am looking for a blank in cherry (!). I know it isnt conventional, but I thought it would be an interesting stock for a modern rifle since it was used in the past for muzzle loaders. WOW! I am having trouble finding the right wood.

I just want to make sure there is enough wood for what I want in length of pull and forearm. Most of the cherry stock wood I have seen is 33" long and it is not in a triangle cut but rather showing the buttstock area and forearm. I am affraid this will limit my ability to have the stock the way I want it?

You guys would know best....HELP!
 
Posts: 3284 | Location: Mountains of Northern California | Registered: 22 November 2005Reply With Quote
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Blanks are generally 32" to 36" long unless they are full stock length. With the lengths you stated, the butt to forend tip would be about 32". If you have a recoil pad you will be removing 1" on the rear and 2 1/2" on the forend. The blank can be blocked on the rear for the mandrell and if you have the forend tip installed when they cut the pattern (good idea btw), the block can also be on the tip end. Installng the ebony on the blank at the duplicator is a two step process. The outside is shaped roughly as is the barrel channel and the blank is dialed in and then removed from the duplicator and the blank cut where you mark it, then the ebony is glued on with dowels and then reestablished on the duplicator and then you resume your inletting. This is for high accuracy duplicators only.

If you don't choose this method, the forend will be cut as long as the wood is and then you cut it in your shop and glue the tip on. Then inlet the barrel channel to match.

33" will work fine.

With cherry wood, bear in mind one thing or at least my scenario when you get done. Cherry has a nice clolor and that is generally about it. High figure is a rarity. You will likely be met with a comment such as "Interesting wood, what is it?" And after you say Cherry, you will likely hear, "hmm, that is different." Now on the other hand, with a well figured and laid out piece of marble cake English walnut, you are a lot more likely to hear, "Damn, that is gorgeous, what is the wood?" The costs to build the stock are going to be the same, no matter what kind of wood you select, or if you do it yourself, the effort will be the same. I have always told people to select the best and most expensive piece of wood they can afford because you can not go back and substitute higher grade wood later. Thought I would add that to add to your confusion.


Chic Worthing
"Life is Too Short To Hunt With An Ugly Gun"
http://webpages.charter.net/cworthing/
 
Posts: 4917 | Location: Wenatchee, WA, USA | Registered: 17 December 2001Reply With Quote
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Chic--
Remarkably helpful!

I want to have the forend 2 inches longer than a standard stock would be, and I want the ebony tip to be a little longer than typical at 2 1/2 or 3 inches. I guess very little would be cut from the end of the blank.

On the butt I want an A. O. Niedner type buttplate and grip gap. I need a 15" LOP.

Overall, this is why I got concerned about blank length because it seemed as if I was stretching the limits of the standard blank.

I am hoping that this stock built by a very competent 'Smith.

On the subject of wood, I was e-mailed by a supplier that has fabulous looking black walnut. It comes from Eastern black walnut trees grown in Oregon and Washington. It has great figure. They call it Western walnut. Has anyone ever used it?
 
Posts: 3284 | Location: Mountains of Northern California | Registered: 22 November 2005Reply With Quote
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Who is the wood supplier? Eastern black walnut is called black walnut, no matter where it is grown. Gary Goby has some good stuff at an often very good price. He lives in Canby Oregon. Here is his web site. And here is one two of his blanks.



Generally, the max forend length is one inch or so shorter than half the exposed barrel. Longer than that and they end up looking rather odd. Yuu can get away with shorter. If you have really long arms and you can't get a good grip on a shorter stock you might have a good reason to go longer, but I have never seen anyone who needed one that long. Given your criteria, you will need 34" as a minimum. That is not hard to find. I would suggest that you look long and hard at the forend length.


Chic Worthing
"Life is Too Short To Hunt With An Ugly Gun"
http://webpages.charter.net/cworthing/
 
Posts: 4917 | Location: Wenatchee, WA, USA | Registered: 17 December 2001Reply With Quote
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I would recommend that you make an blanked outline in clear plastic to overlay any blank that you have in question. Just because the overall length of a blank may be long enough, it might not allow you to lay out the grip area etc. where you want it to. A clear plastic overlay will help you to determine if a blank will let you lay our your grip flow etc. the way it needs to be..................DJ


....Remember that this is all supposed to be for fun!..................
 
Posts: 3976 | Location: Oklahoma,USA | Registered: 27 February 2004Reply With Quote
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Chic---

I think ultimately I will let the Gunsmith decide what is best for the stock. I have the LOP requirement and then it is all up to him. Forearm can be his call. I will be fine with it. I like a medium to long ebony piece. Lately I have been seeing short little ebony peices on Express rifles. I just hate it!
 
Posts: 3284 | Location: Mountains of Northern California | Registered: 22 November 2005Reply With Quote
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So I guss I am okay with even a 33" inch blank. Does it matter is the blank is cut in a pattern other than a triangle?
 
Posts: 3284 | Location: Mountains of Northern California | Registered: 22 November 2005Reply With Quote
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quote:
Blanks are generally 32" to 36" long unless they are full stock length. With the lengths you stated, the butt to forend tip would be about 32". If you have a recoil pad you will be removing 1" on the rear and 2 1/2" on the forend. The blank can be blocked on the rear for the mandrell and if you have the forend tip installed when they cut the pattern (good idea btw), the block can also be on the tip end. Installng the ebony on the blank at the duplicator is a two step process. The outside is shaped roughly as is the barrel channel and the blank is dialed in and then removed from the duplicator and the blank cut where you mark it, then the ebony is glued on with dowels and then reestablished on the duplicator and then you resume your inletting. This is for high accuracy duplicators only.

If you don't choose this method, the forend will be cut as long as the wood is and then you cut it in your shop and glue the tip on. Then inlet the barrel channel to match.

33" will work fine.


I think I am still okay with the 33 inches of blank wood, but 15 inch LOP [length of pull] to a Niedner-Style Buttplate and Grip Cap. Forend needs to be long enough to compliment the extra lenth of pull and end in a nice Nigerian ebony tip. The stock style will be English classic with a nice long semi-pistol grip.

This works with a 33" blank right?

Measure twice, cut once!!!!
 
Posts: 3284 | Location: Mountains of Northern California | Registered: 22 November 2005Reply With Quote
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33" should do well.


Chic Worthing
"Life is Too Short To Hunt With An Ugly Gun"
http://webpages.charter.net/cworthing/
 
Posts: 4917 | Location: Wenatchee, WA, USA | Registered: 17 December 2001Reply With Quote
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As alway Chic, thanks for supporting the uncertain! I appreciate your help greatly!
 
Posts: 3284 | Location: Mountains of Northern California | Registered: 22 November 2005Reply With Quote
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