Hey guys,

I bought a 1931 mexican mauser and am trying to decide what are the next steps I need to do.

Do I need to have it heat treated?
What other work do I need to do? I assume it needs to be surface groud.
What is the best barrel twist for a 7x57 shooting 140gr. bullets?

Any help would be appreciated.

ddj

What you need to do next is save some $$$ and decide who is going to do the work for you. Once you figure that out follow his advise and his advice alone.

Terry

May I suggest you start with the desired end product.....

example......

a 7 X 57 with a 21" barrel #1 contour Shilen and NECG banded front and London rear sight.

Leupold 3-9X33 ultralight scope

David Miller style bolt handle

Dakota or equivalent 3- position safety

Jewel trigger

AAA fancy American Walnut classic with shadowline cheekpiece, with skeleton steel but and grip cap and ebony forend tip
Talley sling swivel bases in island sockets.

Hi polish bluing

////////////////////////////////////////////

you get the idea....spec the gun.....find a smith to build it for you and let him decide if heat treating is required.....

IMO Mausers after 1924 already have the same heat treatment that is done when folks send them in for heat treating.....if you intend on hot loading it you may want to deepen the case..... But let your smith help you make the decision as to when and how much to heat treat....If you want to chamber for WSM calibers your smith may wish to do so after rail work.....

Spec what your end product is and let the smith get you there.

depends on your budget
I haven't HT'ed a small ring 98 mexican mauser, though i've built several...

140s aren't heavy or long, so must about any twist will do with that...

I'd suggest relying on the Smith's expertise and let him spec the parts. You tell him what you like, what it will be used for, how you shoot, and approximate weight with scope and let him figure out the parts needed to achieve that goal. If you spec the parts you're liable to end up with something you're not too happy with.

So far I'm thinking a:

Stan Mc Farland 3 pannel bolt handle,

Dakota 3 position safety,

23" benchmark or douglas air gauge barrel,

No sights,

Talley Rings and bases,

I already have several pieces of English walnut to make a minimal dimensions stock. So no checkpiece to save the weight,

Not sure of the barrel twist?

I guess I'm looking for someone to do the work.

ddj

Hello Guys

Nice to discuss a priject like this. I have just about completed a VZ-33 in 257 with the aim of achieveing a lightweight rifle. I was going to go down the no cheekpiece road, but after reviewing a lot of old threads I found something that changed my mind (can't remember which thread now sorry). Instead by choosing a slim pattern, and most importantly, making the right compromise on wood (I went for flow, weight, hardness and figure in that order) light and nice is still possible.

In short, if you like a cheekpiece, don't leave it off your bespoke rifle just to save weight.

Cheers - Foster

quote:

Originally posted by trouthunterdj:
So far I'm thinking a:

Stan Mc Farland 3 pannel bolt handle,

Dakota 3 position safety,

23" benchmark or douglas air gauge barrel,

No sights,

Talley Rings and bases,

I already have several pieces of English walnut to make a minimal dimensions stock. So no checkpiece to save the weight,

Not sure of the barrel twist?

I guess I'm looking for someone to do the work.

ddj

I'm not knocking McFarland bolt handles, I have a few but here is another option.

Glimm's Bolt Handles

I bought one for my last project and they're very nice. It's just another option.

It never ceases to amaze me when knowledgable experienced people offer advice along the lines of "find somebody to do the work for you and let them figure it out." Aren't we all here to learn and discuss and offer suggestions? Afterall this forum is labeled "gunsmithing" not "customers of gunsmiths".

There is some sound advice here to be sure. Establish the purpose of rifle, decide on desired end result, components to use, aesthetic and functional features, and last but not least budget. But to suggest that somebody should just find a good gunsmith, offer "x" dollars and say "build me a rifle that will ____" is not helpful at all.

Would you have a home built the same way? Absolutely not! You go over every detail from planning to execution - fixtures to use, placement of light switches, swing direction of doors, window size and placement, etc. The one writing the check is the boss.

Throw enough money at the right person and you will probably end up with something that is just fine. But if one is disengaged from the process or lacking knowledge, you will be setting yourself up to get rolled or end up with something you are unhappy with.

My suggestion: learn as much as you can, decide exactly what you want, (but always remain flexible and open to suggestions from others) and go into the project with eyes wide open.

Also, if you have any handyman skill at all try to do at least one rifle project yourself, if not this one. You will learn far more about custom rifle building from the experience that you ever will just reading about it or paying somebody to do the work for you. You will also come to appreciate and be willing to pay what it takes to get the end results you want if and when you ever plan on forking out money to a pro for a high end custom. It will also help you weed out any BSers and hacks. You will end up with something that you can take personal pride in, regardless of the end results. You are not paying for your own time, and with some skill and patience you may find out that you are more talented than you thought. It is a fun and rewarding hobby.

Good luck, and be sure to post plenty of photos!

I guess you will continue to be amazed because it's excellent advice.


Terry

I couldn't disagree more.

Advising someone forgo seeking knowledge and place all their trust in one person is never good advice.

I am just looking for some opinions and knowledge from all of you. I have been impressed by the help I have gotten so far here.

I have pm'd Mike for some help and info also.

My problem is that aren't any guys that I know personally that have custom rifles. So this is my way of gaining information and help.

I know it sounds like I'm a beginner, thats because I am. I'm not going to jump into anything but want some opinions.

Thanks in advance,

ddj

The one that builds the rifle is the one that takes the ultimate responsibility for the job. If you don't trust him or his advice why in the hell did you hire him in the first place?

This is great place for "bench racing" but that's it. If something goes wrong noboby here is going to take responsibilty for it but the guy you hired to do the job. You'll get several people that will say "oh, that's too bad" if the job doesn't go right. You'll a whole herd of monkey's if the smith rip's you off, but nobody will make it right but the guy you hire. He is the man doing the work, take his advice.

Terry

quote:

Originally posted by TC1:
The one that builds the rifle is the one that takes the ultimate responsibility for the job. If you don't trust him or his advice why in the hell did you hire him in the first place?

This is great place for "bench racing" but that's it. If something goes wrong noboby here is going to take responsibility for but the guy you hired to do the job. You'll get several people that will say "oh, that's too bad" if the job doesn't go right. You'll a whole herd of monkey's if the smith rip's you. But nobody will make it but the guy you hire. He is the man doing the work, take his advice.

Terry

Very well said!!

OK Terry, truce! I don't want to turn Trouthunter's thread into a pissing match between you and I like I have seen many others on this forum degrade into. I actually think we both share more common ground than might be apparent from our posted exchanges above.

You make an excellent point about the ultimate responsibility that the builder has for both the function and safety of the finished product. I certainly agree with you there. They are the one whose professional reputation is on the line, and the customer needs to respect that. One should be willing to modify their expectations based on the advice, knowledge, and experience of the person they choose to hire for the job.

I don't think you were suggesting that anybody relinquish complete control of a project to the gunsmith, even if my response seemed that way. I aologize if I came across as combative.

Nor was I necessarily suggesting that the customer be in total control. No respected gunsmith, (or any professional for that matter) worth a salt should ever subordinate their principals just to make a quick buck from a customer who thinks they know what they want.

The important thing in any service transaction or working relationship such as this is that both parties establish good communication and set clear expectations.

The gist of my point, and I hope you agree, is that it never hurts to arm yourself with knowledge. You will be able to speak the language with more credibility, and be able to ask the kind of intelligent questions that will enable you to find somebody whose abilities and advice you can be confident in, and can trust to do a good job for you.

Cheers.

P.S., thanks for the link, those are some beautiful bolt handles! I haven't seen these before.

With that being out of the way, does anyone have any suggestions for me?

Maybe I shouldn't say suggestions, a better word might be ideas.

ddj

No truce needed. I'm sure once I convert you to my way of thinking we'll get along just fine.



Just kidding
Terry

quote:

Originally posted by trouthunterdj:
With that being out of the way, does anyone have any suggestions for me?

Maybe I shouldn't say suggestions, a better word might be ideas.

ddj

I would go one step further than Terry. I think you ought to go visit the smith you want to have do the work, and while you are there look at his or her work. Spend some time with the person, just as you would your doctor or dentist or lawyer or accountant. See what they do. And if you decide on something get it in writing as to what is going to be done and how long its going to take, and when the money is supposed to be paid, etc.

Now, as far as a recommendation, since you are in Northern Iowa, it would not be all that far of a drive to either Bloomington Minnesota or Sturgis South Dakota.

In Bloomington you will find Jim Kobe. Near Sturgis you will find James Anderson. Both of those fellow will make you a very nice firearm that you will be proud to own.

But you aren't going to even know what you want until you know whats available, so you need to go for a"look see".

Sheesh Blue, Jim Anderson would do a bang up job but Kobe? How can you in good conscience put those two in the same sentance?

Lets not bash anyone on this thread.

How about everyone giving me some ideas for a lightweight walnut stocked mexican mauser in 7x57.

Thanks

ddj

quote:

Originally posted by trouthunterdj:
Lets not bash anyone on this thread.

How about everyone giving me some ideas for a lightweight walnut stocked mexican mauser in 7x57.

Thanks

ddj

I did give you some ideas. If you want lightweight, go over and see Jim Anderson (AKA Gunmaker). He makes a very sleek, lightweight, stylish stock, and his metalwork is beyond reproach. Or email him and have him send you some photos of his work.

Thanks 22WFR

I appreciate the help! I was just trying to get some more ideas from others and get the thread back. I know by saying this i probably just killed the thread. Do you have Mr. Andersons website or email. Can't seem to find him.

Thanks again,

ddj

Jim's email can found Here.

Thank you,

I would like to take a look at as much custom work as I can. I appreciate everyones help.

ddj

Rem721, Jim Kobe has done excellent work for me. You must have a personal problem! James Anderson has done excellent work for me also and is doing a full octagon barrel for me at the moment.
Butch

quote:

Originally posted by trouthunterdj:
Hey guys,

I bought a 1931 mexican mauser and am trying to decide what are the next steps I need to do.

Do I need to have it heat treated?
Any help would be appreciated.

ddj

OK, instead of concentrating on what to do I think the direction to go would be "WHAT DO I WANT" and "HOW DO I GET THERE."

I've got two Mexican projects going now.

One Mark Stratton did the metal on the first one and Chic Worthing is doing the stock. The job consists of a 1910 Mexican Mauser with a custom octagon Shilen barrel chambered in 7X57. It has a Dakota Safety, a 1936 Mex cocking piece, Blackburn bottom metal, Bold trigger, Halfmoon rifle shop handle and custom scope bases. I like Mark Stratton's work, but he's been a little under the weather and his work load was backed up. I'm not sure if he's caught up or not.

Here are a few pictures of what's going on with this one. Chic say's it'll be finished by late October. It'll have a skeleton buttplate and gripcap and the old raised platform swivels. My only regrets is that I didn't get mark to put iron sights and a barrel swivel on.

Barreled action.



Since these pictures were taken I got Mike McCabe to replace the bolt handle. I decided I wanted a straight one instead of the swept back style.


Wood lovers, eat your heart out! This is the most beautiful piece wood to ever come out of a walnut tree! It's turned and Chic has started work on it. It can't wait to see it finished!



The second one is still in it's humble beginnings.

It's a 1936 Mexican M98. the metal on this one will be a little more extravagant than the 1st. It's over at David Christman's. The plans for this one include square bridges, a Stuart Satterlee 3-postion safety, Timney featherweight trigger, Wisner bottom metal and a most beautiful guild style barrel. It's half round, half octagon with a full integral rib. The neat thing about this barrel is it's very petite and looks right at home on a small ring mauser. It's only .550 at the muzzle! I've never seen one this small before. When I bought it from Jim Wisner (Thanks Jim!) it was chambered in a .243 Winchester. David sent it over to Jim Dubell who bored it out to .264. It's going to be a .260 Remington when finished. I would have wanted a 6.5X55 but the way the barrel is made the chamber just will not clean up so the .260 was the next best thing.

Here is a picture of it before the work started.


Here is a picture of another David did for my friend Butch Lambert. If you'll do a search you can find pics of the finished rifle.


David would be a very good choice for your job. I still don't have a stock maker lined up for this job as I've got so many irons in the fire I'm just not going to worry about it for now.

Now maybe you have a few ideas to go by. here's another. If I was going to do another one I would order a small banded rear sight base.

Order an express style sight to put in it. Order a banded front sight and banded barrel swivel. I would buy a Stuart Satterlee safety and some Sunnyhill bottom metal which should available soon for the Mexican small ring mausers. I would have a custom contoured barrel turned to accept the banded sight and the radius would turn up to the shank very similar to a Mannlicher Schounauer barrel. I would have it chambered in 7X57 and have a set of custom scope bases built for it. I would have that metal put in a nice open grip slim stock with a trapdoor buttplate and gripcap. It wouldn't be cheap, but it would be a rifle you could use the rest of your life.

Hope that helps, gotta go to work now.
Terry

Damn TC1 where did you find that piece of wood!! you're right, that is one of the prettiest sticks I've seen in a while.

quote:

Originally posted by rem721:
Sheesh Blue, Jim Anderson would do a bang up job but Kobe? How can you in good conscience put those two in the same sentance?

Could anyone please tell me what the phuque it was that I did to this guy. I have PM-ed him before but he won't say.

quote:

Originally posted by Jim Kobe:

quote:

Originally posted by rem721:
Sheesh Blue, Jim Anderson would do a bang up job but Kobe? How can you in good conscience put those two in the same sentance?

Could anyone please tell me what the phuque it was that I did to this guy. I have PM-ed him before but he won't say.

Jim....the guy has been this way from his very first post on AR.....

quote:

Originally posted by thismortalcoil:
Damn TC1 where did you find that piece of wood!! you're right, that is one of the prettiest sticks I've seen in a while.

I bought that bad boy at Dressels.

Terry

Thanks TC1-

By seeing your projects has given me some ideas of things I like and things I don't like. That is one of the most beautiful sticks of wood I have ever seen.

I wasn't going to put sights on but now I'm not sure. I wasn't going to put sights on from a cost standpoint. What does a banded sight cost?

I still like the 1910 cocking piece but the 1936 does have a certain cool factor to it.

Different strokes for different folks.

Thanks Again-Its nice to see some custom work.

ddj

TC1, that truly is a beautiful stock! I haven't seen those elevated sling swivel platforms before. Do you happen to have a photo of what those look like when completed?

Also, goes the grain flow actually reverse direction right at the toe there? It looks like this might be a weak area unless the LOP is shortened a bit.

quote:

Originally posted by montea6b:
TC1, that truly is a beautiful stock! I haven't seen those elevated sling swivel platforms before. Do you happen to have a photo of what those look like when completed?

Also, goes the grain flow actually reverse direction right at the toe there? It looks like this might be a weak area unless the LOP is shortened a bit.

I've seen plenty of raised platform bases before but I don't have any picture of them. They are sorta out of favor with most stock builders right now I like 'm and that's what a custom rifle is all about. On the blank, the grain does turn in toe, I'm not worried about it in the least. The wood is solid. Did you notice the knot in the magazine area?

Terry

That knot ruins the entire stock, I'll do you a favor. I'll send you $200 (very generous of me, lol) and you can send me that piece of fire wood.

quote:

Originally posted by TC1:
Did you notice the knot in the magazine area?

Terry

I thought that was a recoil lug.

Did you notice that mole on Cindy Crawford?

Sorry Trouthunterdj...but i've got to ask ...so

TC1, got any pictures of the stock in its blank form, bet it wasnt in the 15% off section. Who did ya have the blank duplicated by...That is a pretty chunk! I've often went to Dresels web sight just for look see /so far. Us Okies dont get to see lots of english around here, mostly Blackwalnut. I hounded Dressels over a blank about 10 years ago, if anyone has PD121, we need to talk.

quote:

Originally posted by srtrax:
Sorry Trouthunterdj...but i've got to ask ...so

TC1, got any pictures of the stock in its blank form, bet it wasnt in the 15% off section. Who did ya have the blank duplicated by...That is a pretty chunk! I've often went to Dresels web sight just for look see /so far. Us Okies dont get to see lots of english around here, mostly Blackwalnut. I hounded Dressels over a blank about 10 years ago, if anyone has PD121, we need to talk.

Here ya go.

I don't mind a hijack when you show wood and guns like these

TC1 - What kind of buttplate are you going with?

Thanks for all the ideas, keep them coming!!

ddj

Skeleton for the buttplate and gripcap.

Terry

quote:

Originally posted by srtrax:
Who did ya have the blank duplicated by...

It was fun!