Gents
I recently received the Cz-Express for my brno 602. Now I see that the barrel recoil lug and the widened section for the sight base is wrongly positioned. It seems like I have to bring the dremel to drill away a cm of the front area of the barrel recoil lug area if I am to be able to fit the barrel in the stock.
Is this the case for all Cz express stocks? All other things seem to fit within a mm, but just this thing makes the barrel not enter the channel properly.

How to resolve this?

Sincerely
Daniel

Contact McMillan, then send it back. They are not immune from mistakes. When I was trying to buy a Legend pattern McMillan from D'Arcy Echols, he had to send it back twice because the barrel channel was wrong. Mine also wasn't the only one either. It has to do with the computer program for the inleting; sometimes they get mixed up.

I dont know if I can send it back, since I bought it from a smith on the other side of the atlantic. It would also take AGES to get it here again + I would have to pay tax + VAT + Customs + freight again. The normal response time for McMillan for overseas orders seem to be somewhere around one year or so. I need the rifle fit for fight by the end of august!

Sincerely
Daniel

i assume you are planning to bed and paint it? or it is painted.

i would just clean it up to fit, bed it with maine tex, and paint.

j

Jeffesso

It is a molded in paint on it. And I will use the marine epoxy I have to bed it. It is said to be the best thing to get hold of here.
Will a dremel with sharp tools take care of it?
It seems like I will then have a 1" x 1" x .4" thick void between the barrel recoil lug and the stock. Shall I put a piece of steel there and mold it in, or just use the marine epoxy to bed it all at once?
I am also wondering about the installation of the slingstuds. I have ordered a customized insert that is threaded on both sides and fitting the uncle mike sling studs. What kind of drill is most suitable to use to make a clean cut for the inserts to be molded in?

Sincerely
Daniel

Ah, perhaps i have misunderstood...

you mean mean 2 different areas of it not fitting, 1: UNDER the barrel, and 2: the barrel wont fit the channel?

the under barrel part is an allowance for the "F" block. This is a piece of steel that butts up to the vertical face on the lug under the barrel. You can make an L from a piece of steel that will fit, then bed that in.

as for the barrel channel, you can file that to fit.


cutting the stock.

ALWAYS PUT DUCT TAPE ON THE OUTSIDE OF THE STOCK WHEN DRILLING.

you can use any 118deg drill, place in a vise on a drill press, hahve a very high RPM, and feed SLOWLY into the stock.

if you like, drill through the barrel channel, before bedding. On the inside, drill a larger hole. Use this to put a "machine screw" rather than wood screw type sling stud. This should have, on the inside of the stock, a flat washer, a lock washer, a nut, and then threadlocked into place. Bed over that.

jeffe

Jeffesso

Thanks!
I will file/sand the sides of the stock to allow the barrel to sink in properly.

As for the inletting for the underside of the barrel, it seems like McMillan just put their mold form .5" too far back, making the barrel recoil lug touch the barrel channel instead of fitting snugly in the widened section cut-out for the barrel recoil lug.
I will thus have a .5" horizontal gap behind the recoil lug until the stock material would hold the barrel lug. This area will be filled with epoxy/a L shaped steel piece and molded in to make a tight fit.

Thanks for instructions on drilling too.
The drill machines I have access to are mostly used for metal and I suspect that the RPM of these is a tad slow & that the dremel is too weak. I will also use tape to prevent splinters from drilling in the stock. Would the normal silver tape be enough? I am not getting cheap on the duct tape or drills when the stock is more expencive than the barreled action itself...

Sincerely
Daniel