I have used vinegar to remove hot dipped gun bluing in the past but it was infrequently and a long time ago. I have a bolt body that was blued and want to remove the bluing on the body but not the handle.

1. How long do I need to dip/soak the part?

2. Will the part need re-polished after the removal? (I am perfectly satisified with the current polish/appearance of the blued part. I can't remember if the vinegar removes the blue but also dulls the finish?

"russian vinegar" is something like 70-80% .. may be a wipe on. wipe off, neutralize (this is speculation, as i haven't used it

i've used coke a cola for a weak solution to not etch the surface

It's probably easier to protect the handle with tape and polish the rest of the bolt.

Bill Jacobs

Labrador Retriever vomit will remove blurring almost instantly...........getting them to barf on command is a whole other story.

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If you're going to dip the bolt in a soln to remove the blue, 'mask' the handle to protect it from the remover by painting it with shellac or lacquer. Several coats, and they don't have to be pretty,, will protect the blued metal from the attack of the bluing remover soln what ever it may be.
It won't be immersed in the stuff that long anyway.

Vinegar will work,,Naval jelly rust remover, there are commercial bluing removers also.
Most of the DIY products leave the surface a little grey colored but a careful repolishing with fine paper will bright the brite polish look right back again.

When you are all done, remove the shellac/lacquer.
LAcquer thinner will remover both.
Alcohol will remove dried shellac.
Ammonia cleaner can be used as a brush cleaner for shellac.

The matte acid-etched finish is actually less likely to rust .. seems counter-intuitive but it works (at lease if it's done with BW Blueing Remover).

Ditto.

quote:

Originally posted by Clemson:
It's probably easier to protect the handle with tape and polish the rest of the bolt.

Bill Jacobs

Several years ago I was at an outdoor BBQ party + one guy took out his Colt .25 + laid it on the serving table (don't ask me why) when getting some salad + while using some oil + vinegar dressing he dropped one drop on the slide + it took the bluing off immediately.

oh, and CLR will take it off, really quick .. though might etch the surface, if left on too long

CLR.. Calcium/Lime/Rust remover
has a weak but perfectly good acid in it for the job of removing bluing.
Not phosphoric like Naval Jelly,,but Lactic Acid instead.
Probably other stuff that works on it as well.

I've used a very weak soln of muriatic acid to remove bluing for many years. About a tbs,,no more than 2 tbs per gallon of water.
Room temp dunking and hot blue dissappears in a minute or two.
Rust blue takes a few minutes to get through usually. Light grey color to the steel when done but polishes right back up with nothing more than scotchbrite or a wire-wheel.

Before I retired I re blued a lot of guns on a regular basis. When I wanted a blued bolt handle and the rest polished I simply blued the entire bolt then a quick light pass on the buffing wheel with 400 grit polish gave the desired result. I used electricians plastic tape to protect the blued part and provide a crisp dividing line.

I appreciate all of the replies, opinions, and advice. I used cider vinegar to remove the blue. It took it right off and left the metal a smooth, gloss grey color. My friend, a gunsmith, dipped it in another solution that he uses in blueing prep, I can't recall the name, Steel nit or something. The bolt looks new

quote:

Originally posted by JTEX:
Labrador Retriever vomit will remove blurring almost instantly...........getting them to barf on command is a whole other story.

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The best thing about this forum is getting useful info from those who've been there and done it.