Anybody have a simple method how to time, in this case, trigger guard screws so they line up north/south?

You generally remove metal from the back of the screw head(slowly) until the slot lines up. Chuck the screw shaft in an electric drill motor locked in a vise. Take a mill file and grind off an edge to make it safe. Lay the safe edge on the screw shank and push against the screw head to remove metal. If the screw is in a countersink, you can deepen the countersink. With bolt rifles, I have altered the bottom metal bedding to get them to line up.

quote:

Originally posted by Jim@IMReps:
Anybody have a simple method how to time, in this case, trigger guard screws so they line up north/south?

No lathe?

"No lathe?"

Negative on the lathe.

The simplest methods are more technical, but probably the easiest is the way gunmakers cut screw slots for probably close to 150 years, which was with a little vise made for slotting screws.

We sell a "gunmakers" screw with a extended head for stocking. Once you have the stock and metal work done, you file the head down to match, and mark your slot lines.

I encouraged a Master Gunmaker friend of mine to make and sell a small vise he has which is a really sweet setup. It clamps the screws and has 4 dowel pins that act as guides for your fine blade to cut the slow. I don't have a picture of it unfortunately, but it would be well worth the time to make if you intend to do these.

I have one of the devices you refer to or one similar to it. I will post a picture later tonight.

Unfortunately not adjustable. File guide that used to be available from Brownells.

^^^^^ For cutting a slot. He needs to time an existing slot(s). Doesn't appear that device will help with that....

Correct, I was posting to Nathaniel's reply. I don't have a lathe either. I level and square the plate on my drill press. I have a small Palmgren machinsts vice I mount a file flat, level and square. Lower the ram and bring the screw shoulder up under the file and remove material as necessary till I achieve timing, moving the vice forward to remove material. Chalking the file helps. File mounted perpendicular in the vice I can reduce the head diameter to fit. Plebians have plebians ways.

I'm thinking there must be an easier way to time the screws, but I'm not an expert!

Most of my rifles are either hunting guns or service rifles. No concern on which way the screws line up as long as they stay tight and do their job.

We do have 3 Kimber of Oregon Model 82s. They are a bit fancier and for the most part the screws are lined up.

#1, LH Classic. There are 7 screws lined up and 2 action screws that are not lined up. I spoke with a guy that worked for Kimber once upon a time and he said he thought it was a QC mistake that the gun came out of the factory with the action screws not lined up. Upper management was very picky about all the screws lining up. He didn't share HOW Kimber timed the screws.

#2, RH laminated stock. I think it only has 2 action screws and they both line up. Rubber butt piece and screw in studs for the sling attachment, so no screws to line up. I don't remember how the grip cap is set up??

#3, LH Deluxe. It has 9 screws, and all are lined up.

It seems strange to me that Kimber would have set up a lathe or tool to cut all these screw heads one at a time to get them lined up.

quote:

Originally posted by LeonardC:



It seems strange to me that Kimber would have set up a lathe or tool to cut all these screw heads one at a time to get them lined up.

A small lathe set-up with an accurate collet system, where no other task was performed, would be the ticket. Add an operator with experience timing screws, and there you go. The more you do it repeatedly, the better you get at it. 1 divided by t.p.i. tells you how far the screw advances per 1 complete revolution. Divide from there.

I cheat.

I slot lots of screws in one of my Hortz Mills.

For Mausers I have a BUNCH of finished guard screws, and simply go thru them to find ones that time.
For those other actions I set up the metal lathe with a 5C collet and face the under side of the head to time

Then those other odd screws, yes I leave a tall head and snug down with a vise grip, mark the slot with a sharpie, unscrew and set up in the Hortz mill and slot
Face the top of the screw down to match the part

For wood screws, and scope base screws, again simply go thru a bunch of finished screws to find those which time

For the single,screw its best to face the underside of hte head to time

Just my 2 cents

J Wisner

quote:

Originally posted by slivers:
^^^^^ For cutting a slot. He needs to time an existing slot(s). Doesn't appear that device will help with that....

The simplest method is to remove material off the back of the head till it times. Barring no lathe, the simplest method is to cut the slots.

It's a solution that meets his situation.

quote:

Originally posted by J Wisner:

Then those other odd screws, yes I leave a tall head and snug down with a vise grip, mark the slot with a sharpie, unscrew and set up in the Hortz mill and slot
Face the top of the screw down to match the part


Just my 2 cents

J Wisner

Seems everything I do is a one off, usually for odd ball British guns. This is the method I use but I cut a working slot, time and mark it, then cut the actual slot, not much different really.

I've chucked the screw in a drill press. Filed the back of the head squarely a little at a time on medium speed. Also used some 600 grit wet or dry sandpaper laid over the flat file with a drop of oil. Done a few. Slow down, don't force it. Must be perfectly flat. Worked for me anyway. Wish I had a lathe.

Though generally a Luddite, I find this subject a great reason to use modern screw heads. Imagine how many old screws were either overtightened or left loose in order to chase this obsession.

quote:

Originally posted by sambarman338:
Though generally a Luddite, I find this subject a great reason to use modern screw heads. Imagine how many old screws were either overtightened or left loose in order to chase this obsession.

Yes, but some of us get berated and accosted for using those evil "T" word screws.

I guess that's why I'll never be a gunmaker....