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Re: Metal polishing ?
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Glen71
I would counterbore with a 30 degree cutter and peen the screws into the counterbore. Polish everything up and the screw holes literally disappear.

Thanks...I'll try that next time.




I had a M-12 20 gauge that someone swiss cheezed like your 141. I put headless screws in the holes and sunk them below flush. Got a hot shot welder to tig weld the holes with Brownell's 3% nickel rod. After I dressed it down and recut the matting by engraving, the fix was undetectable.
 
Posts: 813 | Location: Left Coast | Registered: 02 November 2000Reply With Quote
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Can anyone recommend a method for polishing the bolt-action to be more smooth on a mauser ?
 
Posts: 64 | Location: Norway | Registered: 07 March 2004Reply With Quote
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Posts: 1634 | Location: Washington State | Registered: 29 December 2002Reply With Quote
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Thanks. It was a lot of interesting stuff there, but i missed som info about which paste/oil to use on a polish-job.
 
Posts: 64 | Location: Norway | Registered: 07 March 2004Reply With Quote
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Belk is quite a craftsman. Would like to spend a couple of weeks at his shop gleening some knowledge. Bob
 
Posts: 371 | Location: Florida | Registered: 25 April 2003Reply With Quote
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Jack recommended auto transmission fluid to be used liberally with all of the polishing stones. Yep, just plain ol' ATF..... Seems to work just fine, too.

MKane160
 
Posts: 488 | Location: TN | Registered: 03 January 2004Reply With Quote
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Thanks. I've learned a lot already
 
Posts: 64 | Location: Norway | Registered: 07 March 2004Reply With Quote
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I have a related metal-finishing question (my apologies, NorHunter). I have a 98 action that has been surface ground, heat-treated, and appears to have been lightly sand-blasted. I want to stone and hand-polish this action. What grit stone should I start with? Is a 150 too coarse? I'm ready to order stones. Give me some input.
 
Posts: 1366 | Location: Houston, TX | Registered: 10 February 2003Reply With Quote
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Posts: 663 | Location: Seabeck WA | Registered: 06 March 2003Reply With Quote
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Glen71

I don't think you would need to start with 150 grit. I would probably start with 320 or 400 unless it was really hammered with a very coarse grit.

Bob,

I wouldn't have bothered with the solder. It is impossible to hide when soldered. I would counterbore with a 30 degree cutter and peen the screws into the counterbore. Polish everything up and the screw holes literally disappear. Thanks for the wood repair coarse. I've never seen it explained in a better fashion. You never know what you will learn on this site. Thanks, again
 
Posts: 1634 | Location: Washington State | Registered: 29 December 2002Reply With Quote
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Roger - Thanks for the info. The surfaces are quite smooth and possibly may have only been blasted with glass beads rather than sand. Just a dull, frosted gray. BTW, can you duplicate the DWM left sidewall lettering (1908 Brazilian)? It was a casualty of the surface grinder.
 
Posts: 1366 | Location: Houston, TX | Registered: 10 February 2003Reply With Quote
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Sorry, no I can't. I have to have enough lettering left to recut.

Or, another action with good lettering so I can do a transfer of the good lettering to the action with no lettering.
 
Posts: 1634 | Location: Washington State | Registered: 29 December 2002Reply With Quote
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Glen71
I would counterbore with a 30 degree cutter and peen the screws into the counterbore. Polish everything up and the screw holes literally disappear. Thanks for the wood repair coarse. I've never seen it explained in a better fashion. You never know what you will learn on this site. Thanks, again




Thanks...I'll try that next time.
 
Posts: 663 | Location: Seabeck WA | Registered: 06 March 2003Reply With Quote
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I would be happy to loan a 1908 receiver that has good left sidewall lettering so that it can be copied.

Blue
 
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Blue - That's right neighborly of you. Thanks.

Roger - PM me the approx. cost for such work.
 
Posts: 1366 | Location: Houston, TX | Registered: 10 February 2003Reply With Quote
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Actually, when you look at just the left sidewall (not the ring) the lettering on the 08 Brazillian is identical to that of the 09 Argentine.

It says

DEUTSHE WAFFEN-UND
MUNITIONSFABRIKEN BERLIN

Blue
 
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