Re: Metal polishing ?

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16 March 2004, 10:13

scot

Re: Metal polishing ?

Quote:

Quote:

Glen71
I would counterbore with a 30 degree cutter and peen the screws into the counterbore. Polish everything up and the screw holes literally disappear.

Thanks...I'll try that next time.

I had a M-12 20 gauge that someone swiss cheezed like your 141. I put headless screws in the holes and sunk them below flush. Got a hot shot welder to tig weld the holes with Brownell's 3% nickel rod. After I dressed it down and recut the matting by engraving, the fix was undetectable.

12 March 2004, 21:56

NorHunter

Can anyone recommend a method for polishing the bolt-action to be more smooth on a mauser ?

13 March 2004, 04:36

Scrollcutter

Try this link.

Belk's polishing primer

13 March 2004, 05:13

NorHunter

Thanks. It was a lot of interesting stuff there, but i missed som info about which paste/oil to use on a polish-job.

13 March 2004, 10:02

VFR

Belk is quite a craftsman. Would like to spend a couple of weeks at his shop gleening some knowledge. Bob

13 March 2004, 12:23

MKane160

Jack recommended auto transmission fluid to be used liberally with all of the polishing stones. Yep, just plain ol' ATF..... Seems to work just fine, too.

MKane160

14 March 2004, 02:38

NorHunter

Thanks. I've learned a lot already

14 March 2004, 10:06

Glen71

I have a related metal-finishing question (my apologies, NorHunter). I have a 98 action that has been surface ground, heat-treated, and appears to have been lightly sand-blasted. I want to stone and hand-polish this action. What grit stone should I start with? Is a 150 too coarse? I'm ready to order stones. Give me some input.

14 March 2004, 10:10

Bob Smalser

Thanks for the Belk article.

Here's my version:

http://www.accuratereloading.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Number=596071&page=0&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=21&fpart=1

14 March 2004, 10:42

Scrollcutter

Glen71

I don't think you would need to start with 150 grit. I would probably start with 320 or 400 unless it was really hammered with a very coarse grit.

Bob,

I wouldn't have bothered with the solder. It is impossible to hide when soldered. I would counterbore with a 30 degree cutter and peen the screws into the counterbore. Polish everything up and the screw holes literally disappear. Thanks for the wood repair coarse. I've never seen it explained in a better fashion. You never know what you will learn on this site. Thanks, again

14 March 2004, 12:12

Glen71

Roger - Thanks for the info. The surfaces are quite smooth and possibly may have only been blasted with glass beads rather than sand. Just a dull, frosted gray. BTW, can you duplicate the DWM left sidewall lettering (1908 Brazilian)? It was a casualty of the surface grinder.

14 March 2004, 12:21

Scrollcutter

Sorry, no I can't. I have to have enough lettering left to recut.

Or, another action with good lettering so I can do a transfer of the good lettering to the action with no lettering.

14 March 2004, 13:19

Bob Smalser

Quote:

Glen71
I would counterbore with a 30 degree cutter and peen the screws into the counterbore. Polish everything up and the screw holes literally disappear. Thanks for the wood repair coarse. I've never seen it explained in a better fashion. You never know what you will learn on this site. Thanks, again

Thanks...I'll try that next time.

14 March 2004, 20:28

<Guest>

I would be happy to loan a 1908 receiver that has good left sidewall lettering so that it can be copied.

Blue

15 March 2004, 07:06

Glen71

Blue - That's right neighborly of you. Thanks.

Roger - PM me the approx. cost for such work.

15 March 2004, 11:51

<Guest>

Actually, when you look at just the left sidewall (not the ring) the lettering on the 08 Brazillian is identical to that of the 09 Argentine.

It says

DEUTSHE WAFFEN-UND
MUNITIONSFABRIKEN BERLIN

Blue