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one of us |
Here's a picture of my CZ 550 .416 Rigby which has just been rust blued by Jack. And here's the bottom metal after two applications and 30 hours. Almost scary! Thanks to Jack for the amazing work and the great pictures. Best, Joe | ||
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one of us |
Oh man, that is perrrfect... Nice even texture and rich color. As someone who spent the better part of the evening laying my pet Sako project into a wire wheel to get the bite of the acid to even out on a blown rust blue- I can attest to the superior durability of a fine rust blue. Basically, the wheel couldn't touch it... I'm just trying to knock down the etch a bit with some sucess. What solution was used in this case? | |||
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One of Us |
Looks great Jack. I love it when that final coat just brings it out and you know you are there. Rust bluing is long, tedious work but is so rewarding. Nothing else like it. | |||
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one of us |
quote:Actually, I've begun to wonder whether there is. In studying case hardening technologies, I've come across ferritic nitrocarburizing/oxidizing. In essence, what that mouthful amounts to is a combination of a carbonitriding case hardening with an oxidation finish that leaves you with a three part surface composed of a diffusion zone of about 10Rc harder than the core; an extremely hard, single phase epsilon layer (white layer) of about 75Rc; and a Fe3O4 (a.k.a. black oxide, magnetite, or rust blue) outermost layer. The process can be applied to 4140, 4340, and other typical gunmaking steels. What you end up with is a very hard, very slick, very durable case hardening and traditional black finish that is more corrosion resistant than stainless steel or hard chrome -- and all of that is accomplished in a single process. Best of all, it's done at a low enough temperature that warpage or other distortion isn't a factor. Looks very cool to me, but here's some links if you want to check it out: http://www.geartechnology.com/mag/archive/ferrit.htm http://www.dynablue.com/dynablue.html http://www.erie.com/techbul.htm There's also a similar process using pulsed plasma (one of the trade names is Plasox), but I haven't found anyone in the US that offers that service. | |||
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One of Us |
Infosponge, your name fits you, lol. That looks interesting but the price (2nd link) looks a bit stiff. Am I right in reading that they want $2,000 to do one die? Still looks like an interesting product. | |||
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quote:Yeah, price is the big question. I don't know how much it costs. I read it as $2,000 for one die, too. On the other hand, the shops that do this all look to be clustered around Detroit and do a lot of work for the automotive industry. That could be one big die! The other price hints I've been able to find show prices less than hard chrome and about 1/4 the cost of titanium nitriding processes. That could put you back into the $150 range, which would be much more attractive. The furnaces that they use for this are pretty big, so I bet just doing one or two actions or barrels would be prohibitively expensive unless you could get them to slip your stuff into an unused spot while processing another larger job. I'm not in any position to follow through on any of this, but I'm glad at least someone else found the idea interesting. | |||
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one of us |
I dont know much about rust blueing process. Do you get the black color as you card with the wire wheel? Is that when your red rust turns black? Or does it change when you boil it. Id like to learn the process | |||
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Chic, Take a look at the connecting rod die example in the third link. That's a $3800 die that costs $330 to nitrocarburize, and $1200 to chrome plate. As a rough ballpark figure, that die would appear to be about the same size and complexity as a barreled action, so maybe.... | |||
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<JBelk> |
GSP-7-- Do a search here and at HuntAmerica.com for rust blue. There're several thousand words on the subject. | ||
one of us |
Jack Very nice work. Also a word of thanks for all of your input into the forum. Your gunsmithing knowledge is impressive, to say the least. Roger | |||
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one of us |
I might add that Jack just did a Mauser for me and it sure looks good, he can also match a finish if the original gun is rust blued. All I have seen come out of Jacks shop is excellent, he is a perfectionist...Probably one of the premier metal smiths in the modern world. Now that doesn't mean I agree with everything he sez, we still have some heated arguments. | |||
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<JBelk> |
Ray--- It sounds like you're tired of buying lunch to me! I've got that 300 feeding like the chamber is Linda Lovelace. I'll take it to town Tuesday. [ 04-05-2003, 20:00: Message edited by: JBelk ] | ||
Moderator |
quote:Groan!!!! Where'd you hear that one!!! When you mention you blended with scotchbrite brown, do you do this instead of carding on the wheel or in addition to carding with the wheel? | |||
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<JBelk> |
Mark-- The Linda Lovelace reference was original.....just a sickness I have...... The Scotchbrite carding was in addition to the wire wheel carding. I should have photograghed the barrel... it looked like the bottom of an airsick bag with speckles and patches of black with rusty edges. I took the Scotchbrite to it thinking it would take so much blue that I'd need more coats to finish bluing, but instead it cut the ugly stuff and left good blue underneath. Steven Dodd Hughes is my hero!! | ||
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