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Best MIG Wire to use for filling metal defects prior to bluing
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Hi Gang
I just purchased a sporterized Carl Gustav rolling block that will be my next project firearm. I'm going to try and make her look more like an original sporting rifle rather than a cut down military firearm.
I probably will need to MIG weld some screw holes in the barrel prior to rust bluing. Is there a particular type of wire that would be best to use make the repairs the least noticeable?
 
Posts: 110 | Location: Brownstown, PA | Registered: 04 January 2022Reply With Quote
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I won't weld on a barrel. Plug with a screw, gently peening the edges to make it less noticeable. Besides welding an barrels is a no-no, MIG is a rather fast process for filling small screw holes. Welding is melting 2 materials together and using a filler to fill the void. The melting will destroy the temper of the barrel steel, making it soft in that spot.


 
Posts: 719 | Location: fly over America, also known as Oklahoma | Registered: 02 June 2013Reply With Quote
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OTOH it is a low pressure barrel anyway, not modern CM steel.
I'd TIG, not MIG. Less heat.
Or do what sli said; that will work.
 
Posts: 17380 | Location: USA | Registered: 02 August 2009Reply With Quote
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OK. Thanks for your input. Plugging and peening sounds like the easiest fix.
 
Posts: 110 | Location: Brownstown, PA | Registered: 04 January 2022Reply With Quote
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Ssome modern barrels have recoil lugs silver solder (or brazed) to the barrel...not all that far from the chamber either.

Having taken a few off, pretty fancy temp to take off and would cerainly be higher to attach.

Ponder if "in an out" with a TIG would be any more damaging ???

And...been posted here on many occasions that barrels are not heat treated anyway
 
Posts: 3667 | Location: Phone: (253) 535-0066 / (253) 230-5599, Address: PO Box 822 Spanaway WA 98387 | www.customgunandrifle.com | Registered: 16 April 2013Reply With Quote
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mig wire, and most tig wire, is cladded with non-steel - so, i would say tig, with the cladding removed, in tiny spots .. btw, if you take a box (you can cut holes to slide the barrel in and out) you can "fill" the box with your welding gases, and not worry too much -

remove the cladded, though, right before welding it, to keep it clear and clean, as the cladding may/will show up in bluing


opinions vary band of bubbas and STC hunting Club

Information on Ammoguide about
the416AR, 458AR, 470AR, 500AR
What is an AR round? Case Drawings 416-458-470AR and 500AR.
476AR,
http://www.weaponsmith.com
 
Posts: 40040 | Location: Conroe, TX | Registered: 01 June 2002Reply With Quote
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I just leave the copper coating on; it floats to the top, you are grinding that anyway, and I have never seen it after bluing. I MIG welded a Willys 1944 parking brake bracket yesterday; after painting OD green, you can't tell.
 
Posts: 17380 | Location: USA | Registered: 02 August 2009Reply With Quote
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takes seconds to clean .. hours to fix, if it shows up ... i make too many errors to accept a preventable one


opinions vary band of bubbas and STC hunting Club

Information on Ammoguide about
the416AR, 458AR, 470AR, 500AR
What is an AR round? Case Drawings 416-458-470AR and 500AR.
476AR,
http://www.weaponsmith.com
 
Posts: 40040 | Location: Conroe, TX | Registered: 01 June 2002Reply With Quote
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I must be lucky on the dozens of bolt handles I have done. Copper coated wire. I can only report on what I have actually experienced.
But definitely no one else do that, or anything else I do or say.
 
Posts: 17380 | Location: USA | Registered: 02 August 2009Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by Duane Wiebe (CG&R):
Ssome modern barrels have recoil lugs silver solder (or brazed) to the barrel...not all that far from the chamber either.

Having taken a few off, pretty fancy temp to take off and would cerainly be higher to attach.

Ponder if "in an out" with a TIG would be any more damaging ???

And...been posted here on many occasions that barrels are not heat treated anyway
Current stress relief temps for modern made CM and SS barrels is in the neighborhood of 1100F(+ or-). Tempering temp for 4140CM to 28R is listed @ 1325F, 33R @ 1200F , according to my Republic Steel handbook. SS (416R) is not listed in that book. "Book temps" give guidelines. Exact temps are established through testing the material sample.


 
Posts: 719 | Location: fly over America, also known as Oklahoma | Registered: 02 June 2013Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by jeffeosso:
takes seconds to clean .. hours to fix, if it shows up ... i make too many errors to accept a preventable one



My mother advised that you should carry an apple in you pocket if it makes you feel good.

So...Never encountered the issue Jeff describes, and never removed the copper. but would defer to my mother's adise
 
Posts: 3667 | Location: Phone: (253) 535-0066 / (253) 230-5599, Address: PO Box 822 Spanaway WA 98387 | www.customgunandrifle.com | Registered: 16 April 2013Reply With Quote
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.510 A Square as built by A Square









My way, two 8-40 screws plus silver solder



 
Posts: 1473 | Location: Running With The Hounds | Registered: 28 April 2011Reply With Quote
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Just hope a viewer doesn't think "If Art Alfin did it, must be okay"
 
Posts: 3667 | Location: Phone: (253) 535-0066 / (253) 230-5599, Address: PO Box 822 Spanaway WA 98387 | www.customgunandrifle.com | Registered: 16 April 2013Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by Duane Wiebe (CG&R):
Just hope a viewer doesn't think "If Art Alfin did it, must be okay"


Yep. I had the rifle in the shop for a few days.

Had the barrel off, stuck it in the lathe between centers just for grins, placed a dial indicator at the lug area.

WooHoo!!! 0.035 runout at the lug area.
 
Posts: 1473 | Location: Running With The Hounds | Registered: 28 April 2011Reply With Quote
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