I have a new "switch-barrel project rifle", I've been tinkering with lately. It is a Remington model-7. It started out as a .243Win. I later aquired a .308Win bbl for it (factory-new pull-off), and recently another bbl in 7mm-08. Later on, I'll have a .22-250, and maybe a .260,too. As is, all barrels will shoot adequate groups of around 1"-1 1/2" as is. My question is: Should I free float the barrel channel, and glass bed the action, or just let the factory inletting and barrel pad - at the end of the forearm - alone? I am using a Badger recoil lug fixture for holding the lug, and it is pretty tight, but there might be slight movement when changing barrels. Do you think I might be opening up a can of worms by trying to fully free float the barrel(s), and glass bed the action? Incidentally, it is a factory wood stock, and, while close, the barrels are not the exact same contour, so I couldn't really bed the chamber. I really need the benifit of some "been there, done that" experience here. Thanks............Bug.

I free float all my barrels and glass bed all my actions.....some prefer pillar bedding but I'm still not sold on that.....I'm just old fashioned and like glass bedding.

If the one to 1.5" groups at 100 yds are all rifle and not something else they are really not up to what can be done. But "he who is satisfied is well paid".

If you want to do better it just seems to me that the different barrels are a variable along with the potential a wood stock has what with the moisture changes that happen as the seasons change.

If you said that the barrels were shooting 3/4 MOA and staying sighted in the advice would be to leave the bedding alone. Such is not the case however.

The first thing I would do is to free float the barrels. If it shoots better and stays sighted in your all done. If it does not then the easiest next step is to install home made tubing bedding like a Mauser has and just coat the inside of the stock with poly.

Tubing bedding is just a tube on the outside of the front and rear guard screws. The action and floor plate rest on the ends of the tubes just like a pillar.

If you don't like the tubes, and I don't see why not, then you could glass it later and either keep them or fill in the holes or even add pillars at this point.

Take a close look at the fouling pattern on the crowns of those barrels before cleaning them and make sure the pattern is uniform.

I am sure you are aware that there are many other variables to consistant accuracy. Just a few of them are that everything is tight, the sights, bench technique and a decent barrel and the assembly of everything. You always find something in the last place you look.

Savage 99,
Thanks, for your thoughts. I really like the bit of philosophy. I hadn't thought about shifting zero, due to weather/seasonal changes. That certainly makes me think a bit more on free-floating.
The thing that makes me hesitant, is that all barrels now have a good bit of upward pressure at the forend tip/pad. This is often a good thing with these lightweight, pencil-thin barrels of this type. I just don't want to go from "adequate" 1 1/2" groups with all barrels, to a situation where I have no idea where the next shot will go with any one barrel... Does that make sense? They are ALL "useable", as is. If I go monkeying around with it, it could get worse. It could also get a lot better.
If I were going to stick with one barrel, there would be no question that I would 'float & glass' it. I just haven't dealt with a switch-barrel situation before, and was hoping someone else had been there, and would share what worked for them.
BTW, good thought on bedding with "tubes" a la Mauser. I think if I went that way, I would go ahead and just pillar bed it, due to Rem's round bottom. Thanks again,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Bug.

Put some washers between the action and stock in the front and rear and lift the rifle off of the forend bedding and try it that way.