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Hey Jeffe, I have been following your efforts and great success with your Stock Duplicator, I seem to remember that you started with a set of instructions on a CD. I've come into some heavy hardened rails with support, linear bearings and other useful items and think they could make a duplicator. Could you give me a clue on where to get the CD that got you started? Could you give me any tips, hints, do's & do nots? I will appreciate any help you can send my way. Thanks, Marcos (elalto) | ||
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Marcos, thanks for asking.. The gentleman I bought the cd from is Les Brooks, who is simply amazing. he posts here, so you sure could do a search on his name and get his contact info. email me off list if you like jeffe opinions vary band of bubbas and STC hunting Club Information on Ammoguide about the416AR, 458AR, 470AR, 500AR What is an AR round? Case Drawings 416-458-470AR and 500AR. 476AR, http://www.weaponsmith.com | |||
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What kind of info are you looking for? I built a three spindle machine a year or so ago and I can tell you right now it was a major undertaking. It takes a long time to fab one up and for the money, if your not in the business it ain't worth it. I have somewhere between $2000 and $3000 in mine and thats not counting the labor. I use mine alot so it has paid for itself. I am interested in this CD as well, If I had blueprints I could have saved alot of time and labor. Do you have a computer with Solidworks? My wife drew mine out on solidworks complete with dimensions, but no instructions on how to build it. I'll have to dig that disk out. I don't have any real do's and don'ts. I will tell you the biggest mistake I made was to go cheap and not use fully supported linear shaft, I used 1" thomson linear shaft supported with support blocks on each end. That, and I put it on wheels and forgot that the wheels might need brakes, so I have to wedge it against a wall or it will roll off. Every time I went the cheap route I had to replace or rework that part of the machine. Jeffosso, What kind of duplicator is on this disk? Who designed it, or is it a copy of a factory built one? I used a dakota for years and I built mine similar to the dakota, without all that wasted aluminum. I probably should have used a little more alum. but its extremely expensive. My machine looks thin but it's extremely rigid. Post a little more info on this if you will, I'd appreciate it. Chad | |||
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Hey Guys, I see some interest in my stock duplicator plans again. My machine is a simple designed machine that can be built for about $600 if you follow my plan. A stock machine doesn't need to be as precise as a metal working tool. The pattern is the weakest part on a stock machine and the person running the machine has to understand how to run the stock without making the pattern bow. I have owned a North Star carver and have worked on the Don Allen machine also. I made my machine light weight so it would be portable. (130 lbs) 2ft X 4ft can be stored in the up right position against a wall in less than 4 square ft of floor space. It has wheels to carry the carriage and there is a brake to control the carriage. It can be operated with one hand without having the router cutting head move where ever the cutter pulls the machine. The original machine was started in 1981 and in 1983 it was working the way I had hoped. I still have the original machine and in 1992 went back to TSJC in Colorado and taught stockmaking for a couple of years before retiring. I know that the machine has cut over 100 stocks without a failure. I am working on a couple of new projects to help the beginner in stockmaking. I am planning on making a DVD for the beginner on engraving that will show a tool for sharpening the gravers. I had to buy a new digital video camera as the old analog camera is just like me, getting worn out. I will be making a new DVD on the original machine cutting a stock to show how it works. When I made the original machine I had no plans to make video's of it working. Now I have time to play with these new toys. Also will be making a new DVD on checkering with the power and hand tools. It is a real brain stormer to video yourself trying to work and explain what you are doing in a small shop area. I am not a professional camera person, so it may be a blast to see and get a few laughs. Ha Ha I had a little set back by falling off a ladder and breaking my left arm, but now I am back to track to make these new projects. These projects will be on VHS as well as DVD. Jeff made a fine machine. It is not like the original, but the thought was placed in his mind to make the project. That is what I like to see and I believe anyone can make improvements on the original machine. Jeff's machine is more like some of the commerial designs. If anyone is interested in these projects contact me by PM and I will answer your questions. My plans are not a blue print, but are sketches of the dimensions. A person must be able to make some parts by looking at the designed part. I wish more people would make video's of their work so people coming behind us will be able to see how we worked. I started in gunsmithing in 1957 after a fellow would not help me learn by watching him in his shop. That is when I started studying books and in 1961 went to TSJC. I soon passed him up and the ability to do all metal, stockmaking,and marketing. I also would like to see a thread on all the older gunmakers from all over the US. I have had lots of guns in the shop, but could not determine the maker or did not know where he worked. In 1970 I started stamping all of the projects by placing my initial's or my name on the guns. Barrels are marked on the bottom by initial and year. Custom stocks were stamped inside (Les Brooks). That would be something that we could all contribute by knowing our areas or writing up a short bio. Sorry for the long post, Les Brooks, retired gunsmith | |||
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That sounds very interesting Les, I appreciate learning from the experts and a DVD is a great idea. ~~~ Be watchful, stand firm in the faith, act like men, be strong. 1 Corinthians 16:13 | |||
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Hrllo the Campfire: Has any one digitized any stock patterns? I would think that with the inexpensive computers we have now it would not be a big problem to read the various paterns into a program that would run a duplicator. sort of a rough cnc deal. If I can get a good rough stock, I can do the final fitting in a lot less time. I do not have patterns laying around, but have taken several off existing stocks and changed them to my wants. I lack the computer skills to try something like this but I am sure that we have members who have the knowledge and time to try it. Judge Sharpe Is it safe to let for a 58 year old man run around in the woods unsupervised with a high powered rifle? | |||
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THats interesting Les, thanks for taking the time to respond. I like the idea of being able to stow the machine when not in use. My machine is 4 X 8 so it cant really be stowed out of the way. I have a deal worked out with a company that builds BMG actions and single shot rifles to cut all of their blanks so I needed a big machine. I will get in touch with you via PM. I would also like to see your DVD's, my wife does engraving so your engraving cd would be very useful for her. Thanks Les. Chad | |||
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Chad, great to see you here bud! Doug Humbarger NRA Life member Tonkin Gulf Yacht Club 72'73. Yankee Station Try to look unimportant. Your enemy might be low on ammo. | |||
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Les, Good to hear from you. Hope to see you again soon. gene Semper Fi WE BAND OF BUBBAS STC Hunting Club | |||
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Jeffe, Thanks for your reply, I will try to email you off-line this week-end, I’m sure that I can benefit from your experience in putting together a machine that really works. Chad, Appreciate your comments, I have some hardened 1†rail 48†long with full support and Thompson premium linear bearings. I am thinking that I will use aluminum structural extrusions (80-20) for the frame and other structural pieces. I am thinking that a 36†by 48†machine will be big enough and plan to use high quality 1.5 Hp spindle motor(s). Any tips that you might offer I will greatly appreciate. Les, Thank you for your post, I would really like to obtain a copy of your CD would you be kind enough to advise how I can go about getting a copy? My email address is elalto @cox.net Thanks to all who respond, Marcos (elalto) | |||
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Elalto, you sound like your on the right track with the parts you have. I built mine from scraps of aluminum and some steel I had and some new stuff. Best advice I could give would be to draw that hummer out before you start laying welds. I welded up my frame and forgot that I needed 3 centers accross the back. So I built my drive mechanism in a seperate assembly, and drilled clearance holes thru the back frame rail. This ensured that my drive centers were on 12" centers. Good Luck. Good to see you here too Doug, I found a few pictures I took while building my machine, I will get them too you once I can scan them. I have changed a few things since these shots were taken but you'll get the idea. Chad | |||
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Marcos, you'll be surprised.. you 48" ones, and the clearences required, will make at least a 60" chassis, with at least 48" of working envelope. 36 may be too wide, btw.. I did mine on 9" centers. you quill height envelope is CRITICAL to being happy with your stocks. I used 5x2 square steel tubing for the frame, I think 3/16" wall. good heavy stuff, that you can drill and tap .. I have decided linear shafts are not for me for the X (long) axis .. even when they are working best, there is both a loading play and a little "wiggle" in them. Surface finish, on very fine cuts, sometimes shows a "wiggle" in it.. not from the shafts flexing (that's a constant, and should be within acceptable for "mirrored".. opinions vary band of bubbas and STC hunting Club Information on Ammoguide about the416AR, 458AR, 470AR, 500AR What is an AR round? Case Drawings 416-458-470AR and 500AR. 476AR, http://www.weaponsmith.com | |||
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Jeffe, I didn't know you were having a problem with the long shafts. I can see that it could be a problem, but should be OK if there is a moving support on only one side of the bars. That would take some time for solve, but I think it could be done. On my original machine the carriage is controlled off the right side groove in wheel and the 1/8 inch steel flat on the outside of the frame. The left wheel is free and this stops the binding. My junker took a couple of years to get things worked out. Just my thoughts. Les | |||
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