I have two guns I told a coworker I would clean for him. I REALLY should have seen the Mausers and Type 38 6.5X50 BEFORE I made the offer to help. He also had what was left of a Remington Model 51 and told me the 51 had been in a house fire. The little pistol was rusty and through the rust looks like it could have been in a fire and grips were gone. Pre soak in so Ed's Red that I had with me to "clean" these guns and things looked a little better and when I go home andput in Kerosene things started to look better and the spring in the magazine is still good under all that surface rust and the slide spring is so good so NO fire.
Each night another pin on the 51 loosens up, major exception is the take down pin(or whatever it is called). What I have to assume the safety gave way to a light tap with hammer tonight and the grip safety is starting to move now. Now I have to find the mag release and get the magazine out.
It has been soaking in kerosene for 24 hours and I am getting warm and fuzzy thinking about taking him a bag of parts and dumping them on the table.
Sure wish I had one in front of me to take apart and see what all those parts looks like disassembled. At least all seems logical so far.
Any COMPLETE detailed disassembly instructions and drawing/illustration on the internet for the 51 would be appreciated! Parts list in Numrich is GREATLY abbreviated!

The Mauser has had bayonet lug and front band soaking in penetrating oil since Friday.

All that and the screws on the Mauser will NOT budge.

My next plan is 500 watt soldering iron on pins/screws (nut end) for a few minutes and try again . . . .
Any other suggestions?

Kroil?
Made right here in Nashville and yet I don't even have some in my lubricants. Is Kroil the supper penetrating oil some make it out to be?

Any COMPLETE detailed disassembly instructions on the 51 would be appreciated also!

Sometimes there is no amount of Kroil or other solvent that will take the place of a properly positioned drill bit and tap to correct a problem pin or screw.

I would use a propane torch and concentrate the heat on the metal that surrounds the screw and pin. Use a "real short" pin punch to keep the force of the hammer blows on target and to avoid breaking the punch. Also, whack the screw driver handle with a hammer as you apply torque to help free the screw.

Brownells used to sell a can of aresol coolant that you could apply to a screw head that would help keep it from expanding with the surrounding metal during heating, which actually made the removal of some rather nasty screws pretty easy. Good luck!

and, just some unsolicited advice, I wouldn't clean or make servicable a rifle that had burned in a house fire, due to a NOW unknown hardness of the metal

jeffeosso

Not to worry, I would not "fix" anything that had been in a fire, or would "decommission" it to prevent any future repair to usable condition.

The rifle is in good condition except for rusty bore and the two screws. Likely to be some pitting below the woodline also , , , TOO bad, action in great condition otherwise.

Louis,
Kroil is as good as they claim, in my opinion. I like to heat the metal a little, and then apply the Kroil. It seems to creep into the joint as the metal cools. Sometimes it takes a couple of applications over a few days time, but most screws will turn loose. It's made locally, but I can't find it locally. I usually have to get mine from Midway.

Nashcat

Since time is on your side here, I like to do like Nashcat, put some oil on a screw head and heat it with a torch until it bubbles, then give it another drop or two and leave it for several hours. As it cools the oil gets drawn in and it also helps break the bond between the two pieces.. Try this twice a day for a couple days to help free the screws.