I have a CZ 550 with a loose fitting floor plate. That is to say, when it’s closed, it doesn’t fit tightly.

When I push it upwards, toward the stock, there’s a slight gap and it clicks. When I carry it, it sometimes rattles, even with a full magazine.

I can’t think of an easy fix for this, given the mechanics of the thing. Am I missing something?

I’d be grateful for any ideas on how best to fix this.

Thanks.

there's a couple areas of fitment .
look at these first
loose pin fit
open it, and see if is loose on the pin - does it wobble, and in what directions

when closed, which ways does it wobble?
is it too long, left/right, high, etc? this may be addressable by how you installed the screws

rear fitment - (related to above)
when you close it, can you press down and make it more firm? is the pawl cut too high, even though it comes to the sheetmetal?

just some areas to look at

then...
is it bent?

These have the button sort of like a Model 70. I would make a new one with a bigger head that would press on the floorplate more.

Yep. Also, if the button is made of steel you could fashion a shim made from a feeler gauge blade and then soft solder it to the button. Then stone it to fit snug. I've done this to .22 bolt roots to restore headspace and to H&R locking blocks to tighten the action. Repairs have held well. In your case very little force acting on it.

quote:

Originally posted by dpcd:
These have the button sort of like a Model 70. I would make a new one with a bigger head that would press on the floorplate more.

The 550 latch button has a small angled flat on its underside, that way it engages more as it comes out.

I would look at first checking the pin fit on the hinge area, it would be a 3mm diameter, if too loose it could be reamed out to 1/8" and a new cross pin installed.

Once the loose hinge area corrected, then either solder a shim on the small angled flat on the floor plate where the latch button engages, or have some one put a small spot of weld in that area and refit that angled locking locking area on the floor plate.

My 2 cents.
J Wisner

Thanks to all for these suggestions. I will try to tackle this over the weekend.

All pins are tight and everything is square. There’s a 15 thousandths gap between the top of the flat on the spring loaded catch button and the angled flat where it bears on the floorplate.

I like the idea of soldering and fitting a piece of feeler gauge as a shim to the flat on the catch.

I’m thinking I should leave a couple of thousandths clearance. But I have to allow something in that equation for the solder.

I’m thinking a 12 or 13 thousandths shim. Am I allowing too little or too much for the solder?

Thanks.

IF it is too much you can work it down. IF its too little you will still have a rattle.

God Bless, Louis

My experience is to allow .002 for the solder joint. As just stated best to err on the + side and stone it down if you have too.

Thanks!

Couldn't this be resolved by resting the catch end of floor plate on a scrap of hardwood for support and then lay some thick leather and a narrow piece of hardwood to protect the floorplate. Then tap the floorplate right in the middle a few times with a light hammer and check for improvements. Need more taps? Move to another spot closer to the latch.
Seems doubtful that a variation of 15 thousandths out of perfectly flat would be noticeable.
Or is this frowned upon?

That would be too much for me. Like kicking the jukebox.

I actually thought about turning, drilling and milling a new catch, but decided it was too much work.

The shim is an elegant enough shortcut for me.

I wouldn't. But, it's not mine.
The man with the gold, makes the rule.
Have fun making it happen Mike.
CB