I've got a Mark-X in 25-06 that I'm refinishing the stock on. The stock has no sling swivel studs, so I was thinking of putting a barrel band sling swivel on instead of one in the fore-arm. I've heard of some people gluing the barrel band on to the barrel. Is there more to it than buying the right sized barrel band and using some JB Weld to secure it? Never done anything like this, so some expert advice would be appreciated.

I appreciate the help.

A little more but not a whole lot. First, if it isn't a close fit you may have to taper the bore to improve that. The tighter the tolerance, the stronger the job. There are some pretty cheap reamers at various tool shops that can do the job well enough or you can heat the ring cherry red and shape it on an old barrel or stub. I did one once with a brake cylinder hone but it took forever.

Second, use Loctite 609, not JB. It is designed to fasten cylindrical metal assemblies like this.

Perhaps the least difficult way to install a barrel band sling swivel is to drill the stock and go that route.

Here is one discussion about the topic. If you do a search on this site you will find more info about it. You can also search for anything related to installing banded front sights as the process is the same. Good luck!

http://forums.accuratereloadin...141084201#5141084201

My gunsmith showed me how for my big rifles. He drills the hole, then uses a tapered pin reamer to put about half a thousandth taper on it. He just taps it in place making sure the sling hole lines up. Same thing with barrel band front sights. If I can do them...

Rich

Malm, don't give him that link! That a. tinkerer guy says he has never even seen a barrel band live and in the flash and then goes on and on about all of his theories on how to best install various bands.

Sevens-

Being a machinist no more makes you a gunmaker than being a gunmaker makes you a machinist, so take all of his advice with a grain of salt. Duane gave some good descriptions in the Searcy Memorial Scholorship Rifle thread that is in the gunsmithing forum. he has a good written description with pics of the process. A search will bring it up for you. Also, the topic has been discussed many times in this forum, so searches will give you a lot to read. just be sure to follow directions from soemone who has done it.

Throw the JB Weld away. You can use solder, LocTite 380, Loctite 271, and Loctite 269 for sure. Others will likely work, but I have not tried them. Most LocTite products will not do a good job for this application. Just telling you what i have used and tested to see how they hold up to heat and pressure. You will need to blue the band when you are through. You very well may need to blue the barrel too.

How much experience do you have working with metal? What tools and machinery do you have to work with? This could be something you could figure out in an afternoon, or it could easily be something that would require you scrapping a couple of bands in the learning process. It also depends on how "right" you like things to be. Many folks have adequately stuck a band on a barrel. Not all of them look equally well and are structurally equal. Additionally, your tolerance for a band that comes loose while hunting needs to be taken into account. If this is your first time at something like this you could be looking at a finished product that comes loose several times before you (or a gunsmith) gets it properly installed.

Please do not take any offense at this, as NONE is intended, but if you have to ask if you can just buy a band and JB Weld it, this may be a job where it is best to have a gunsmith walk you through it in his shop. But if you do not mind having the band break free a few times, go for it!

ETA-in regards to the las tparagraph. I am serious. If you want to learn to work on guns then making soem mistakes is how you learn. The pain of lost money and wasted time is great for reinforcing what works. If you are interested in working on gun s then many here will walk you through soemthing. BUT...it is a lot more better if you can find a gunsmith within a couple hours drive from your palce. He/she can show you things in person, which is a great way to learn

quote:

I've got a Mark-X in 25-06 that I'm refinishing the stock on

I wouldn't consider using a band if it is the thin factory barrel. I would opt for a stud on the forarm.

quote:

Originally posted by tiggertate:
A little more but not a whole lot. First, if it isn't a close fit you may have to taper the bore to improve that. The tighter the tolerance, the stronger the job.

Second, use Loctite 609, not JB. It is designed to fasten cylindrical metal assemblies like this.

I edited this but it's dead on for the task.

I lightly chuck the barrel band in a lathe and use a tool post grinder to open the ID to fit the barrel.

Barrel bands are not made to fit the barrel....they are made to fit a range of barrels and must be "fit" slightly.

Hi all,

I do not have a lathe or mill handy. When I need to taper the inside of a cylinder I contact cement some 100 grit emery cloth on a 1/2" diameter tapered mandrel I have and chuck this in my drill press. At low speed holding the band with my hands reams the barrel band to fit the barrel rather quickly. When approaching the location diameter on the barrel go slowly. As others have stated, the closer fit is the tighter fit. Simply revolving the band around the emery covered mandrel and moving it up and dowm as an oscilating sander would works wonders.

Just another cheap and, for most of us with limited machine tools, workable method. Indicate, clean, flux, tin and solder. Good to go, eh?

Stephen

quote:

Originally posted by Marc_Stokeld:
Sevens-

Duane gave some good descriptions in the Searcy Memorial Scholorship Rifle thread that is in the gunsmithing forum. he has a good written description with pics of the process. A search will bring it up for you.

The Silver-Lining Scholarship Rifle

http://forums.accuratereloadin...1043/m/347103474/p/1