This came cut a bit too much. I'm thinking wood particles and epoxy for a fix. My question is how fine should the wood be, sanding dust or perhaps rasp dust? Which epoxy to use and what should the consistency of the dust epoxy mix be? Thanks.

I don't think you'll get the result you're after with dust and epoxy. I'd shave curl of material from low in the barrel channel and glue in place, then refit.

Epoxy and saw dust will leave a very dark almost black material.

Thanks for the tips. I'll try the curl, sounds like a good idea.

unfortunately i keep some very light colored sawdust laying around.. as the phenolic of sawdust and epoxy is very dark...

one trick, which I am ashamed to know, is that the more sawdust to epoxy you use, the less dark it is

jeffe

quote:

Originally posted by dempsey:
This came cut a bit too much. I'm thinking wood particles and epoxy for a fix. My question is how fine should the wood be, sanding dust or perhaps rasp dust? Which epoxy to use and what should the consistency of the dust epoxy mix be? Thanks.

Hell, I'd shave some curl off the outside of that stock. It looks way too thick for the slight barrel in it.

Yes it is still a bit fat. I will use larger curls from a hand plane. I think they will be easier to handle.

Is that a Rem 721?

You can also soak the area with warm water and peen it over (carefully)

zlr, it's a Mod 70.

A product was made just for problems,such as yours. Its called Micro-bed. It comes in two tubes and mix equal parts of both. Your problem would be the light coloredstock, as this is for darker woods. One can still use it on yours if you desire,as the space is small,and it would only show up like a shadow in the channel.

quote:

Originally posted by Bill Soverns:
You can also soak the area with warm water and peen it over (carefully)

Bill,
Sorry, but my english is not what it used to be, and I could not find "peen" in my dictionary.
Could you please explain?

Thanks,

Peening is to lightly tap with a hammer and/or a flat punch to distort the material slightly. You probably do this most often to tighten up dovetails and things like that. Not normally thought of as a repair for wood but since the stock is not yet finished there's a very good chance you could do it that way but if the gap is too big I think gluing a curl of wood in will work better; hard to tell without actually handling the stock.

quote:

Sorry, but my english is not what it used to be, and I could not find "peen" in my dictionary.
Could you please explain?

""noun
The end of a hammerhead opposite the flat striking surface, often wedge-shaped or ball-shaped and used for chipping, indenting, and metalworking.
transitive verb: peened, peen·ing, peens.
To hammer, bend, or shape with a peen.""

Over here it comes from a ballpeen hammer. Regular hammer on one end and round ball on the other. Normally used on then metal to spread it out, round or otherwise shape.

Soften the wood then by striking away from the edge but drected towards it or maybe in the groove underneath you spread the edge of the wood towards the barrel.

quote:

A product was made just for problems,such as yours. Its called Micro-bed.

Van, Microbed was made to bed actions, recoil lugs, not to fill in inletting gaps. That is hack stockmaking in it's lowest form.

Thanks, gusy!
In Norway we call it a penn-hammer or ball-hammer.....
Yea, I shuld have taken that one, but I have never heard of using that tecnique on wood.
Interesting.
But I agree, on this gap I would glue in curls and reshape.

quote:

Originally posted by Customstox:

quote:

A product was made just for problems,such as yours. Its called Micro-bed.

Van, Microbed was made to bed actions, recoil lugs, not to fill in inletting gaps. That is hack stockmaking in it's lowest form.

Microbed was made orginally before yoou were born to take care of inletting mistakes,you should know

Shavings work best. If you use dust and epoxy. less epoxy and coarse rasp filings work better than fine powder.

I was thinking super glue for the curls? Good or bad?

Micro Bed has indeed been discontinued. I do believe Micro Site, the company who made/marketed it is no longer in biz. I have used super glue in applications similar to yours (just last nite, again), haven't had any problems with it.

Dempsey,
not my favorite, but it works very well.. as a rule of thumb, the faster an adhesive cures, the more brittle it is, to a point.

Bent, there are ball peen, straight peen ,cross peen and even angle peen hammers .Ask any blacksmith.

I'd use just plain old carpenter's white(Elmer's) glue. It is real easy (and forgiving) to work with.

I'm with soverns, get it wet and knock it over with a rubber mallet/leather or whatever.

Gringo I'm not that brave. My current thought is to steam a peice of wood to hopefully make it flexible and then clamp the barrel on it so I can the job with one piece after it dries. Not sure it will work or if the steam will color the wood. I have a chunk off a forearm from a different project that matches well so I have lots to play with if it doesn't work.

Well a few tries on the band saw got me a piece, probably a little thick but that's ok. It did take the shape of the curve with some clamping pressure after steaming. I'll glue it in with wood glue and see how it works out. I'll post a pic, failure or success, when it's done. Thanks for the valuable tips.

quote:

Originally posted by mete:
Bent, there are ball peen, straight peen ,cross peen and even angle peen hammers .Ask any blacksmith.

Sure thing, Mete, my ol'dad is graduated gunsmith, artsmith and blacksmith, so I have a grasp of peening, now that I have understanding of the word.

Cheers!