OK, I have an issue that I need suggestions for. I have a gorgeous walnut stock that I can not seem to get the bottom edge of the cheekpiece to sand properly. It always looks either like I have open pores or like I sanded across the grain (which I didn't). Does anyone have any tips for sanding/filling the edge of cheekpieces? I have tried my normal sanding block as well as an eraser. Last night I took my belt sander and made a sanding block with a sharp edge to it. Do you think that will help?

Thanks!

I’m not a big fan of cheek pieces because they never seem to touch my cheek when I shoulder the rifle. I guess that comes from my Marine Corps habit of using the base of my shooting hand thumb as a cheek rest...but that aside...

I’ve used contoured hard felt pads, carved rubber erasers, and even cigarette filters, as backing for sand paper to finish those hard to get areas on stocks. It just takes a bit of time and effort and a great deal of attention to not making flat spots that don’t flow smoothly with the shape.

I've found that the use of a sharp scraper of the right shape/contour will give a finish almost as smooth as glass. It doesn't take much pressure, just enough to remove a "fuzz" with each pass.

larrys,
Are you talking about a shadow line or a cheepiece that blends into the surface of the stock? Also if you are just talking about sanding the wood, you may end up with open pores, they are filled by the finish. If you are talking about wet sanding in a finish you need to either use a block with a good square edge or a round piece of wood depending on the shape you are working on. It also will take a number of passes with the finish to fill the pores.

Thanks for the replies. Chic, I am talking about the wet sanding of the shadow line. It just seems that the most open pores are right at the junction of the stock and shadow line that take much longer to fill than the rest of the stock. I will practice some patience and try a smaller block. The one I use for the rest of the stock is too chunky.

Again, thanks for the replies.

I go to the beauty supply shop and pick up a bag of emery boards. The are flexible and helped me get into those tight spots.

larrys,
I use a small block of hardwood that is about 2" long by 3/8" thick by 7/8" wide. The edges have to be square. I use it as a backing for the sandpaper and fold a crease to fit agiant the block. Then wet sand and wipe the surface with paper towel. Don't rub hard, just wipe it clean. I start with 320 grit then progress to 600 with at least two passes with each grit. Then I go to 800 and often 1200 and 1500. I use this small block all over the blank unless it is concave. I use rubber shaped blocks for those areas.

quote:

Originally posted by Rick 0311:
I guess that comes from my Marine Corps habit of using the base of my shooting hand thumb as a cheek rest...but that aside...

Rick,
do NOT use this technique with a bigbore.. you WILL "wipe your nose" with whatever recoil the rifle will have... I've seen nose bleeds from this!!!

On cheekpieces... man, this is nearly as hard to get right as the bottom of the grip./.. what I do is to get this right FIRST then the shadow line, then the rest of the on-side of the stock... I don't think the order actually matters, but I am usually "fresher" when i start that way

jeffe

Again, thanks to all. Since I am only at wet sanding with 400 grit, I guess I will be more patient. Hmmm, there is that word again.