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New CZ 550 - A lot of work to sort it out
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My new CZ 550 American safari magnum in .375 H&H is taking an awful lot of work to sort out. The gun shot 5" groups off the bench initially, with handloads. Found out that as it came from the factory, the (walnut) stock was warped so that it was putting really a lot of pressure on the barrel at the forend. Had to cut the barrel channel deeper by about 1/16" using a barrel-channel tool from Brownell's, before the barrel was clear of the barrel channel. Groups then shrank to about 2" off the bench with my best handloads. Checked the inletting, and found that there was way to much play in it. Lots and lots of room for the receiver and lugs to rattle around in the stock at the tang, in the recess for the main recoil lug, and at the secondary recoil lug. It seemed amazing that I could get groups as small as 2" with bedding like that. I just finished epoxy bedding it in all those locations with Acraglas. We'll see how it shoots now.

I'll be satisfied with the rifle once I get it to shoot, but could I have avoided all that by paying more for a Model 70?

And incidentally, is there anything else I should do while I have the rifle out of the stock, in order to check for other bedding and inletting problems that could be detected and corrected at this stage?
 
Posts: 189 | Location: San Jose, CA | Registered: 02 January 2003Reply With Quote
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Since the front lug screws down on the barrel I am surprised free-floating the rest of it made much difference. But glad to hear it did.

I changed a .375 to .416 Rem. Mag., so it did not have the barrel lug, and WITHOUT bedding it, I cracked the stock. But that's my fault. Off to McMillan!

The only thing that I would do is chamfer the top of the back of the magazine box so the cartridge heads don't hang up when trying the load the magazine.

The last Win. I bought had the scope base holes and sights drilled off-center. So take your pick!


-------------------------------
Will Stewart / Once you've been amongst them, there is no such thing as too much gun.
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and, God Bless John Wayne.

NRA Benefactor Member, GOA, N.A.G.R.
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"Elephant and Elephant Guns" $99 shipped
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Posts: 19337 | Location: Ocala Flats | Registered: 22 May 2002Reply With Quote
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Bill: Thanks for the suggestion about the magazine box.

I kind of feel that when we buy a mass-produced factory rifle, we are actually buying a sort of "kit", consisting of a rifle that is 3/4 completed. If we actually want the rifle to function, we have to be willing to spend some money and do some work, or have it done, in order assemble the "kit" into a functioning firearm.
 
Posts: 189 | Location: San Jose, CA | Registered: 02 January 2003Reply With Quote
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What the heck, I buy them, too, 'cause they're cheap, at least the "first-cost.'

I figure if you wanted a same quality pre-64 Mod. 70 rifle today, considering what they cost in 1964, it would be >$2,500. That would eliminate about 99% of CZ and Win. sales!


-------------------------------
Will Stewart / Once you've been amongst them, there is no such thing as too much gun.
---------------------------------------
and, God Bless John Wayne.

NRA Benefactor Member, GOA, N.A.G.R.
_________________________

"Elephant and Elephant Guns" $99 shipped
“Hunting Africa's Dangerous Game" $20 shipped.

red.dirt.elephant@gmail.com
_________________________

Hoping to wind up where elephant hunters go.
 
Posts: 19337 | Location: Ocala Flats | Registered: 22 May 2002Reply With Quote
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Hello,
A lot of people use Acraglass, but I personally do not care for it. Since you have the two apart, action/barrel-stock, would suggest you go to your local marine hardware store and purchase what is known as MarineTex. Very good material and does not soften with age and is machineable once cured. Dremel that Acraglass out and re do it w/ MarineTex and would further bed on out the barrel channel and the secondary recoil lug as it is called. Not sure that secondary lug is all that effecient anyway, but if it does take up shock, then on a smaller surface area to spread the reverse movement, pressure is severe compared to the primary recoil lug and needs MarineTex there as well.
Take a look at the rear tang area of the action/stock and a layer of MarineTex there will further insure no movement or weakening of bedding. Let the sides of the action be free of contact with the stock if possible and this should produce proper "bed" for accurate performance.
The market seems to run from the low end in price as the CZ to the extreme overpriced as the Win. Custom shop items to the realistic, but ungodly expensive Holland and Holland, etc. so you kind of have to learn to do a bit of work on your own or have it tied up in a 'smith's shop for months on end. Good Luck!!
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dsiteman
 
Posts: 1165 | Location: Banks of Kanawha, forks of Beaver Dam and Spring Creek | Registered: 06 January 2005Reply With Quote
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One of the things I also do to hard recoiling rifles is drill down through the pistol grip and fill with epoxy. Have known smiths that put a threaded aluminum or steel rod in here to strengthen this area.


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Posts: 3490 | Location: Colorado Springs, CO | Registered: 04 April 2003Reply With Quote
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Prof,
i use 3/8" all thread rod!!!

jeffe


#dumptrump

opinions vary band of bubbas and STC hunting Club

Information on Ammoguide about
the416AR, 458AR, 470AR, 500AR
What is an AR round? Case Drawings 416-458-470AR and 500AR.
476AR,
http://www.weaponsmith.com
 
Posts: 38649 | Location: Conroe, TX | Registered: 01 June 2002Reply With Quote
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Hey, remember when Colt was selling 45acp Gov't Models that would not function right out of the box. This is not a new situation.

Yes, it would be real nice if every new gun bought worked perfectly. All that is needed is for the manufactures and their emplyees to care more about quality, simple. Like if they had to bet their life on it working every time.

Hog Killer


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Posts: 4553 | Location: Walker Co.,Texas | Registered: 05 September 2003Reply With Quote
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