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Gentlemen, I want to show and tell a little. I just got my barreled receiver back from my gunsmith this afternoon and threw everything together for a few photos. This is a Turkish M38 Mauser that wears a rethreaded Remington barrel, caliber 30-06. It is in an unfinished Boyd's seconds stock. I still need to fine tune everything thing, bed the action, finish the stock, and tune the safety so it doesn't go off on its own. Overall I am pleased. Please forgive me if the rifle isn't as refined as many posted here as I'm just starting out and learning, but I thought you guys would appreciate something new to look at. Right Side Top View Floorplate And again Tex | ||
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Tex, that's a pretty decent starting point. what bottom metal is that? looks like parker hale from here. the bottom looks a little deep, and when (not if) i have done this, i use some sheet copper and space it back up. looks better than my first one. when you sand/rasp on it, try to catch some of the dust and mix that in with the bedding (acraGEL) and it will help better than pimenting the die i think it's the pic angle, but the bolt handle knob looks a little large. looks like he turned off the "foil" on the front, which is a good plan. tell us more about what's wrong wth the safety? swing forward by itself, or lets teh fireing pin go when you let it off? i've got a slide safety timney around here that can go fairly cheap, but you'll hate me for the ugly thing it does to your stock jeffe opinions vary band of bubbas and STC hunting Club Information on Ammoguide about the416AR, 458AR, 470AR, 500AR What is an AR round? Case Drawings 416-458-470AR and 500AR. 476AR, http://www.weaponsmith.com | |||
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Jeffe, That is a Zastava triggerguard. I bought two of them a couple years ago for around ~$70 each. I would be happy to take a couple more pics of it alone if you would like to see it up close; just let me know. I had the original bolt forged and the knob may be a little on the large side. But, I've got big hands and it fits 'em well. Also, I did have my gunsmith turn the face of the receiver to remove that annoying handguard ring from the front of the receiver. Point of fact, I had him square the faces of the other receivers I'm sitting on as well. As to the safety: I need to study the way the lever engages the cocking piece a litte more. I think the problem lies in the way the bottom of the lever engages the cocking piece and holds it back. As this is a used unit, the lever may be worn down slightly. I tested it earlier after I put the rifle together by rapping the side of the rifle with my hand and dropping the rifle butt first on the floor. In both instances the safety slide off on its own. The gun did not fire however. Rather, I just can't keep the safety on while moving it about. I am thinking a little more refinement of the trigger/cocking piece/safety is in order before I give up on this one. Do you think I am heading in the right direction or is there something else I should look at? This type of safety is new to me and I'm still trying to figure it out. If I cannot figure this out, I may try fitting a brand new Chapman parts kit from Brownell's to this bolt shroud or I may send another shroud and the chapman tooling I bought recently to a friend and beg a little machining time from him. I'll figure this out eventually. And thank you for the offer, but I must decline. I have my heart set on a bolt shroud safety for this project. Thanks for you time Jeffe, Jason Jason "Chance favors the prepared mind." | |||
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She's looking good. Some of the rifles posted here belong in a museum. JL | |||
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Fellows, I got the safety problem figured out. I need a new safety lever. This one is worn out and disengages too easily. Time to call Brownell's for some parts... Tex Jason "Chance favors the prepared mind." | |||
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