I took a new rifle to the range yesterday. I fired six shots before I ran out of time. I cleaned with Hoppe's #9 Nitro Solvent after each round. The reason I only fired six rounds is because the cleaning took so long!

Should I clean with Shooter's Choice Copper solvent during this process? If so, when?

I don't intend to flame up the break-in debate. I've never done it...read a lot of posts here on the matter and decided it couldn't hurt to try it.

Thanks in advance.

Born to Hunt

All i can say is it works on my guns, all the ones i have broke the barrel in shoot a lot more accurate and are a heck of a lot easer to clean, the one i didnt break in are not as accurate and are a lot harder to clean, guess what im trying to say is all the ones i have broke in im glad i did, all the ones i didnt i wish i had, good luck, Bubba

I have been told clean every 5 rds? And your right it is your rifle so Break it in as YOU want. Unless you are shooting something that leaves alot of copper,Like i'm told barns x, I would think every 50 rds or so if you want. I have a Mod 70 from 64 that never smelled anything but Hoppe's.
Shoots fine and it has seen more than 50 rds
I promise.
I know of rifles that have killed deer for 7-8 years that ain't broke in yet.

I use sweets 7.62 for barrel break-in. The sweets is so aggresive and fast that break-in can be greatly speeded up.

I find that properly broken-in bores clean up much faster and foul slower.

1 shot clean
1 shot clean
1 shot clean
until a significant amount of fouling drop-off occurs. after that clean maybe every 5 rnds for about 60rnds or so and that barrel is just fine.

Sometimes I do and sometimes I don't and I can't tell any difference..considering the difference from one barrel to another its hard to say if its worth it or not...All my LW barrels shoot great without break in....maybe its a benchrester thing....

When I do break in a barrel, I shoot 5 and clean between each shot, then shoot 10 and clean after every other shot, then shoot 10 and clean at 5 then 10 and clean after 10, then 20 and clean at 20...then I am finished...

Considering the polishing process of LW barrels it proven to me a waste of time to break one in..I clean after 10 a few times and then let the barrel dictate when I clean it....

I happen to be of the school that thinks this is a waste of time, money, and barrel life. Fortunately I am supported in this belief (therefore I must be right ) by none other than Gail McMillan. I sugest you read his opinion at
http://www.6mmbr.com/GailMcMbreakin.html

Does it matter? Probably only in our mind. As an instructor at Trinidad said when asked about barrels, "If the customer thinks brand X will shoot better, than it must"

Good Link. Like it

unfortunatley non of those who are against break-in can prove wehter or not the barrels that were ruined or harmed by OVERCLEANING had a bore guide and a coated rod used during the process. Poor cleaning technique can certainly hurt a barrel,but correctly aligned patches and jags will not hurt the barrel throat or crown (the reasons the naysayers list most often due to cleaning rod misalignment)

quote:

Originally posted by JustC:
unfortunatley non of those who are against break-in can prove wehter or not the barrels that were ruined or harmed by OVERCLEANING had a bore guide and a coated rod used during the process. Poor cleaning technique can certainly hurt a barrel,but correctly aligned patches and jags will not hurt the barrel throat or crown (the reasons the naysayers list most often due to cleaning rod misalignment)

I never use coated rods because they flex too much due to the smaller diameter steel used. I use Dewey brass rods and jags and a home made bore guide made of delrin...but most times I clean with an Otis pull thru cable.

quote:

Originally posted by Atkinson:
Sometimes I do and sometimes I don't and I can't tell any difference..considering the difference from one barrel to another its hard to say if its worth it or not.. ..maybe its a benchrester thing....

When I do break in a barrel, I shoot 5 and clean between each shot, then shoot 10 and clean after every other shot, then shoot 10 and clean at 5 then 10 and clean after 10, then 20 and clean at 20...then I am finished...
..I clean after 10 a few times and then let the barrel dictate when I clean it....

taking out any specific manufacturer, ray and i are in perfect agreement.. I learned this from a mean old sargent when I was the jrotc rifleteam armourer...

"if it shoots, leave it the hell alone"

jeffe

I have heard/tried both - clean frequently and clean whenever during break-in process.

One customer barrel suggested clean with a brush 25 times per shot for the first 15 shots, 15 per shot next set down to 5 through 100.

I usually clean with Otis bore cleaner then lube with S2000 synthetic, fire three shots, clean/cool to ambient then fire three shots.

But I have also zeroed the rifle with 5 to 10 shots, cleaned then fired shots to heat the barrel significantly, cleaned and started over again.

Same result as the ultra cleaning option, so far.

I am certain more bores are ruined by cleaning rods that anything else...I don't use coated rods, I use a one piece stainless steel rod that does not get grit embedded in the coating that can damage barrels...

I have one old 30-06 that if I clean it, then it takes a 100 rounds to get it back to shooting??? another that has to be cleaned every 20 rounds...

I doubt that any of this makes any difference on a "hunting rifle", perhaps at the bench rest these are all important or perhaps there to its just fun and games...

The cure to all these problems is Lothar Walther barrels IMO...worked for me! Just screw'em in and go hunting.

It all depends on the barrel. I have a Pac-nor Stainless match grade that stopped collecting much copper after 10-15 shots, and one that took about 100 shots, and some JB bore paste polishing. A typical Savage factory barrel might need some JB bore paste run up and down on a few tight patches in between the first 20 rounds to get the reamer swirls smoothed down enough to stop collecting copper. A savage 223 bbrl needed firelapping with 220 and 320 grit rolled on 6-7 bullets to smooth it out, but now it shoots 1/2-3/8" groups at 100. Look into the muzzle with a light and a magnifier to see if the bore is collecting copper in between shots.

quote:

Should I clean with Shooter's Choice Copper solvent during this process? If so, when?

Born to Hunt,

I use Shooter Choice and I prefer it too the #9 for disolving copper. I would certainly use the Shooter's Choice for break-in cleaning. When? My opinion is if you are using a good copper solvent and following directions, you can start doing a lot more shooting and less cleaning. I would shoot a 5, clean, a 10 clean and another 10 and then see how long it takes to clean out the copper. If the thing cleans up easily, its broke in. If not, shoot a few more 10 shot groups cleaning after each.

I feel the important thing is to use a good copper solvent.

Jim

I see more coated rods at the benchrest matches that anything else. Dewey and Boar tech seem to be prevalent. I also use a derlin bore guide with o-ring by sinclaire specific to each caliber type. As far as flexing, the tight patch removes the crap ahead of the rod body. Now, at the matches I see a lot of agressive solvents used so that only 1 or 2 passes of the rod are necessary. Montana Extreme 50BMG as well as GM TEC (top engine cleaner) have been very prevalent.

There is no pefect, "set in stone" method,..but good rods and bore guides make the difference.

An excellent cleaner is GM Top Engine Cleaner. You can get it at any GM dealership, it's 1/4 the price of the name-brand cleaners-- and it's the same stuff!! I bought a 16-oz. can for about $7.50; a 4-oz. bottle of Shooter's is $7.99 plus tax.