Go | New | Find | Notify | Tools | Reply |
one of us |
How do you rust blue small, multi-part subassemblies such as a 3 position safety? Do they have to be taken apart? MKane160 You can always make more money, you can never make more time...........LLYWD. Have you signed your donor card yet? | ||
|
one of us |
Yes. If you don't, it will never card right. Also hard to keep it from rusting later if you don't get all the nooks and crannies oiled right. "Experience" is the only class you take where the exam comes before the lesson. | |||
|
Moderator |
I watched the rust bluing video, from AGI, where the guy did a sight as a single piece... I wouldn't have... not to mention looks, if you don't stop ALL the rusting (remember, you are exposing them to a acid) the pins will rust in place to the body and the springs will weaken over time.. and the smooth camming of the safety now feels like sandpaper jeffe opinions vary band of bubbas and STC hunting Club Information on Ammoguide about the416AR, 458AR, 470AR, 500AR What is an AR round? Case Drawings 416-458-470AR and 500AR. 476AR, http://www.weaponsmith.com | |||
|
one of us |
Thanks..... MKane160 You can always make more money, you can never make more time...........LLYWD. Have you signed your donor card yet? | |||
|
One of Us |
Here is a recipie and instructions I got from Tony Small from Australia: Thanks for your reply, the recipe is as follows. Hydrochloric Acid...........1.5oz Nitric Acid.................2oz Distilled Water.............1pt Iron nails..................4oz Mix acids then add to the water ( in a pyrex bowl, the reaction with the nails gets hot ) then dissolve the nails till the reaction stops. You may be able to get your Druggist to mix the acids for you, I had to buy more than I needed and the Nitric acid lost it's potency after a year. Even though the ingredients add up to more than a pint you loose quite a bit with the reaction. Be very careful with the acids before and during the reaction, wear rubber gloves and face protection. After the reaction the mixture is pretty harmless. I store mine in a dark bottle supplied by my Chemist. Preperation. Remove rust and dirt and polish the parts as best you can. I sometimes give mine a light sandblast. Put on rubber gloves and eye protection. Clean the parts with cold caustic solution 10%. Rince with clean running water ( from the hose). Dry with a clean towel then lay the parts on the towel or clean cloth or paper. Using a Q tip apply the well shaken solution to the parts getting a thin coat on, you will see the steel change colour as the blueing stuff dries. The solution will settle out so you must shake it before use. I tried using the clear stuff but the blue was very pale. Hang the parts up using steel hooks, I put a long wire down the barrels and hang them on that, you can leave the wire in till finished. If you haven't cleaned the parts properly you will know it as the stuff will not wet the surface. Next day there should be a light coat of rust on the parts, this is good. You will need something to boil the parts in. I use an old electric jug for the small bits and a trough I bent up out of flat sheet metal over a gas burner, for the barrels. Boil the parts for about 5min and the rust should turn black, this also neutralises the previous coat. Put on cotton gloves and when the parts have cooled down a bit use a fine rotary wire brush to take off the black coat.( the gloves are so you dont put oil from your hands onto the parts). The wire brush also polishes the surface, but dont use too much force, just enough to remove the black coat. Apply the next coat directly onto the parts, the colour should change dramatically this time. Hang parts and repeat the process the next day. After the third coat you should have a very dark black blue shiny finish. Apply a coat of WD40 and the job's done. Cheers Tony. Location: Australia | Registered: 25 June 2005 | |||
|
Powered by Social Strata |
Please Wait. Your request is being processed... |
Visit our on-line store for AR Memorabilia