My dad's 99 has a crack in the buttstock that starts at the tang, and runs back and about halfway down the left side. Not a huge crack, but does open up a bit when I put some pressure on the stock...I would like to keep it original, since it is an older 99, so is there any quick fixes that I could try? I guess I could always get a new stock from Brownell's, but like I said...I want to keep it original.

i would tear it down, check how much it can "spread" and inject acraglas into the crack. then heavily wrap in surgical tubing.

boyds also makes a good replacement

jeffe

Jeffe's idea is a good one as long as the crack isn't filled with oil, the acraglass won't stick.

But if it's clean you an spread it a bit and either blow the acraglas in with compressed air or spread it over the crack and hit it with a heat gun. The acraglass will thin down and run into the wood. Then bind it up with the tube.

I had exactly the same problem on a 99 that I purchased. It was an old crack, and I was concerned that oil had gotten into it and that the epoxy would hold, so I agraglassed a threaded brass rod through the wrist. I purchased by rod from Brownells, but I think a fine-threaded bolt with the head cut off would do the same thing cheaper. Once everything has set just carefully file it flush with the stock and the crack won't reopen.

I asked the same question over at the savage collector forum@ 24 hour campfire. I received lots of replys & then repaired my own. It turned out VERY good. I can't even see the crack today. Here is the link to the post with pictures at each step. Good luck!

Repairing savge 99 tang crack

That crack is a common occurence on Savage 99's, the wood around the rear of the receiever is too tight and the recoil eventually splits it. Find the biggest ziplop bag you can, I think the 3 gallon fits the buttstock and put in some acetone and the stock and aggitate it and you can see all the oil come out of the crack and the action and then try blowing in the bedding compound. Gorilla glue would probably work as it is superstrong and dries an amber color, only problem is it foams as it dries and needs to be wiped off frequently.

SRT,
i like gorilla glue alot, but not for firearms.. the line never goes away, and WHEN it tears (it will) it looks like the same glue gm uses on headliners..

jeffe

check out the link, these guys fix cracks on a regular basis.

http://p102.ezboard.com/fparallaxscurioandrelicfirearms...e?topicID=2312.topic

DO NOT USE GORILLA GLUE!!!

Jeffe's formula works fine, chemicals are available from Brownells to degrease the wood if need be, and it is probable that the stock will require that. The acetone thing works but it is an extremely hazardous cleaner, the fumes can be fatal, and it is volatile as well. It serves no purpose to remove the oil from the wood at the cost of having a crater where your house once existed.

quote:

the cost of having a crater where your house once existed.

DD, I have always taken your posts as gospel, and now I am faced with notion that you have exaggerated!

Well I'm am truly flattered, and will admit upon reflection that perhaps the slab will remain.

However, I gotta ask if you've ever seen footage of a genuine fuel vapor explosion? Acetone fumes can crack like the wrath of Thor my friend. Not unlike the theory of the fuel vapor bombs used in the last couple of Gulf War excursions. Note that those vapors aren't contained either. For a REAL good time try ether. It does more to inhibit crack lab production than the law ever will.

OTOH, you may want to video such endeavors for future display on AFHV, they have a 100K grand prize each year for the funniest videos.

on injecting the acraGLAS

go to the feed store, get some ~3/4" syringes, and you are done.. no needles PLEASE

jeffe

Vapor from 1 gal. of gas is same as 14 sticks of
dynamite. That is not a guess as I have seen it
and talked to the lab boys who mixed it.
Gene