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Hi dudes, I just sidestepped the reaper (yet again, than you God). Good to be off my back and on my feet for a while. I have a couple quality AR-15s that I put together over the last few years. I want to finish one in O.D. Green (the little black dress of tactical warfare), and the other in Federal Dark Earth. I have refill packs of the four most used colors from Brownells. My question is this: Can I spray this stuff one grade three military hard (matte) anodizing for a base, or should I completely blast it down to bare metal. I (obviously) do not know, but it seems that there should be a decent "grip" to the receiver surfaces. What say y'all? Tanks. | ||
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Leave the anodize on it and spray over it. That anodize layer is the best corrosion protection you can get on aluminum. www.KLStottlemyer.com Deport the Homeless and Give the Illegals citizenship. AT LEAST THE ILLEGALS WILL WORK | |||
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Thanks Kerry. I was thinking/hoping that would be the case. I have a very nice AR-10 receiver set that has a moly/Teflon coating. That will have to be stripped and re anodized; a small enough price to pay while making a Mark 110 type rifle. I know you all can believe this. Knight's Armament Company charges $478.00 just for their MK 110 stock. That is a hemorrhoid removal price if there ever was one. Thanks again. | |||
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I've been looking at machining my own lower for the AR-10 I have the Iges file so no problem there. Anything AR10 is vastly over priced same goes for the M1A. BTW magpul makes a nice stock for the ar15/10 $250 www.KLStottlemyer.com Deport the Homeless and Give the Illegals citizenship. AT LEAST THE ILLEGALS WILL WORK | |||
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You might want to lightly blast it so the cerocoat sticks better. I've had it flake off of smooth surfaces. Of course that might be a contamination problem.....Tom SCI lifer NRA Patron DRSS DSC | |||
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There's the trade off. I don't think you could bead blast the surface with out removing the anodize. Or at least bead blast it enough to give you a rough enough surface for the paint to adhere to with out removing the anodize. It is worth a shot. Could bead blast the inside of the trigger housing to see before doing the rest of the receiver just clean the part in some warm degreaser. Scrub with a tooth brush. Should be good. www.KLStottlemyer.com Deport the Homeless and Give the Illegals citizenship. AT LEAST THE ILLEGALS WILL WORK | |||
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careful on the degreasers; alkaline degreasers, or MeCl-based degreasers can damage aluminum. | |||
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I have TCE and acetone handy. I will try it with anodizing on a spare receiver. | |||
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Yes this is true even hard anodize can be stripped with enough alkaline based degreaser or a long enough soak. Dawn dish washing liquid works great. Use plenty of hot water. and I mean hot like on the stove damn near boiling hot. Use rubber glovers, Scrub it down and rinse in clean water, let it air dry in a clean area (low dust) then spray away with your favorite coating. www.KLStottlemyer.com Deport the Homeless and Give the Illegals citizenship. AT LEAST THE ILLEGALS WILL WORK | |||
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Google CCR Refinishing and see what they do. They are about 8 miles from me and they do a lot of work for me. Their house black baked-on finish, which they call Cera-Hide, is a very close match to the rust blue that is really black. It wears like iron too. I have it on the slides of a pump gun. I think they Parkerize steel before they coat it. They do a lot of military guns as I see them there when I visit them. They would know best how to do it. It might be cheaper to have them put their coatings on your guns. They have very reasonably prices. It's a family business, both parents and a son. Quick, Cheap, or Good: Pick Two | |||
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Thanks for the lead. L/D | |||
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