13 October 2011, 08:59
lawndartCerakote
Hi dudes,
I just sidestepped the reaper (yet again, than you God). Good to be off my back and on my feet for a while.
I have a couple quality AR-15s that I put together over the last few years. I want to finish one in O.D. Green (the little black dress of tactical warfare), and the other in Federal Dark Earth. I have refill packs of the four most used colors from Brownells.
My question is this:
Can I spray this stuff one grade three military hard (matte) anodizing for a base, or should I completely blast it down to bare metal.
I (obviously) do not know, but it seems that there should be a decent "grip" to the receiver surfaces.
What say y'all?
Tanks.
13 October 2011, 09:02
kcstottLeave the anodize on it and spray over it. That anodize layer is the best corrosion protection you can get on aluminum.
13 October 2011, 09:50
lawndartThanks Kerry. I was thinking/hoping that would be the case.
I have a very nice AR-10 receiver set that has a moly/Teflon coating. That will have to be stripped and re anodized; a small enough price to pay while making a Mark 110 type rifle.
I know you all can believe this. Knight's Armament Company charges $478.00 just for their MK 110 stock. That is a hemorrhoid removal price if there ever was one.
Thanks again.
13 October 2011, 18:07
kcstottI've been looking at machining my own lower for the AR-10 I have the Iges file so no problem there. Anything AR10 is vastly over priced same goes for the M1A. BTW magpul makes a nice stock for the ar15/10 $250
13 October 2011, 22:06
Tapper2You might want to lightly blast it so the cerocoat sticks better. I've had it flake off of smooth surfaces. Of course that might be a contamination problem.....Tom
14 October 2011, 02:15
kcstottThere's the trade off. I don't think you could bead blast the surface with out removing the anodize. Or at least bead blast it enough to give you a rough enough surface for the paint to adhere to with out removing the anodize. It is worth a shot. Could bead blast the inside of the trigger housing to see before doing the rest of the receiver
just clean the part in some warm degreaser. Scrub with a tooth brush. Should be good.
14 October 2011, 09:34
dellorocareful on the degreasers; alkaline degreasers, or MeCl-based degreasers can damage aluminum.
14 October 2011, 14:56
lawndartI have TCE and acetone handy. I will try it with anodizing on a spare receiver.
15 October 2011, 00:41
kcstottquote:
Originally posted by delloro:
careful on the degreasers; alkaline degreasers, or MeCl-based degreasers can damage aluminum.
Yes this is true even hard anodize can be stripped with enough alkaline based degreaser or a long enough soak.
Dawn dish washing liquid works great. Use plenty of hot water. and I mean hot like on the stove damn near boiling hot. Use rubber glovers, Scrub it down and rinse in clean water, let it air dry in a clean area (low dust) then spray away with your favorite coating.
16 October 2011, 06:36
Vol717Google CCR Refinishing and see what they do. They are about 8 miles from me and they do a lot of work for me. Their house black baked-on finish, which they call Cera-Hide, is a very close match to the rust blue that is really black. It wears like iron too. I have it on the slides of a pump gun. I think they Parkerize steel before they coat it. They do a lot of military guns as I see them there when I visit them. They would know best how to do it. It might be cheaper to have them put their coatings on your guns. They have very reasonably prices. It's a family business, both parents and a son.