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How to fix a barrel liner
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I am converting an old Rook rifle in 22 Hornet. I am planing on using a high strength epoxy rather than solder to afix it. Which epoxy to use - a thin JB Weld, or I have seen others use Accraglas.

Soldering with a high strength solder has its challenges and risks loosening lugs etc. abd warping things etc.

Thoughts please.
 
Posts: 981 | Location: Scotland | Registered: 28 February 2011Reply With Quote
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What caliber are you converting it to? My understanding is that barrel liners should be restricted to black powder, .22 RF, and low pressure centerfire.
 
Posts: 3672 | Location: SC,USA | Registered: 07 March 2002Reply With Quote
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It depends on the liner diameter and material. I have used acraglas and have also used high temp loctite. Regards, Bill.
 
Posts: 3522 | Location: Elko, B.C. Canada | Registered: 19 June 2000Reply With Quote
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I have always had good luck with accraglas not the gel but the older runny kind.


Never rode a bull, but have shot some.

NRA life member
NRA LEO firearms instructor (retired)
NRA Golden Eagles member
 
Posts: 1504 | Location: Camp Verde, AZ | Registered: 13 December 2005Reply With Quote
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Barrel liner is 10.2mm outside diameter and is for a .22 Hornet.

At some point it had been bored from whatever Rook cartridge to a 3” 410 shotgun. But is left as a full octagonal outside.

I have reamed out the 410 chamber to make it parallel sided at just under 12mm and taken the forcing cone. I have made up a sleeve from a piece of old barrel steel that includes a rim to fill the gap made by the 410 chamber. It is a tight fit on both the liner and the 410 chamber wall. The liner is a good fit down the bore with no feel-able slop at the muzzle end.

I have fitted the sleeve so it’s flush with the breech face.

My proposed way of doing things now is

1) bond the sleeve onto the chamber end on the new liner. Possibly even solder this. It is a very tight push fit - no way will I get the complete liner to run through it. I can get the head space correct at this stage.

2) plug the muzzle of the liner. Push it into the bore a few mm after the end of the chamber. Mount it vertical in the vice. Pour a puddle of thin runny slow setting epoxy down the bore. Then slide everything up vertically. When I get to the sleeve will apply epoxy to sides and push it up. I want to avoid having too much excess epoxy that will prevent the sleeve fitting home.

3) clean up the mess. Let it harden abd cure for a few days.

Difficult to get accraglass in the UK. I do have West Systems epoxy with both high density fillers and bonding fibres. I have spoken with their technical guys and they tell its very good at bonding steel to steel but do have abraded surface that are clean from all oil etc.

Thanks for all your advice.
 
Posts: 981 | Location: Scotland | Registered: 28 February 2011Reply With Quote
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Loctite 638 works well. Have done 38 Specials and 38-55's with it as well as to many .22's to count. No issues.
 
Posts: 217 | Registered: 24 August 2008Reply With Quote
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Locktight works
 
Posts: 29 | Location: Alaska | Registered: 21 December 2011Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by kendog:
Loctite 638 works well. Have done 38 Specials and 38-55's with it as well as to many .22's to count. No issues.


Have had a good read of the data sheet. It’s about the same sheer strength as solder, and suspect its much easier to get a good joint all down the barrel. I believe using solder you need arms of an octopus.


Would a 50ml bottle be enough for one gun.
 
Posts: 981 | Location: Scotland | Registered: 28 February 2011Reply With Quote
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The only one that I have done is a .22 RF but Loctite 638 was what I used. The rifle has been shot a lot with no perceptible issues.


One morning I shot an elephant in my pajamas. How he got into my pajamas I'll never know. - Groucho Marx
 
Posts: 3813 | Location: Eastern Slope, Colorado, USA | Registered: 01 March 2001Reply With Quote
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