It is better to put the ebony tip on the "blank" prior to having the wood turned or after the initial cut out while it is still square to world..I don't use dowels, I use 2 short sections of screw rod..inlet flat to flat with inletting black for a real nice fit and glass with black glass and lots of torq on the clamp...mill, plane or cut everything square and start you stock making...It's not much hassle this way...At least thats the way I do it.
Posts: 42176 | Location: Twin Falls, Idaho | Registered: 04 June 2000
I don't use dowel or screws. Put a tenon on the end of the stock and machine a mortise for the tenon in the ebony. Like the Brits use to do.
Yea, it's harder to do but it looks great because at the top line of the stock you have a 1/16th band of ebony on the outside and a 1/16 band of walnut on the inside for the depth of the tenon. Even knowledgeable people scratch their heads on that one.
Posts: 1634 | Location: Washington State | Registered: 29 December 2002
Roger, So correct me if I am wrong. You make the tennon just narrower than the width of the forend tip so it is black on the outside and walnut brown just a shade inside and visible on the top flat. You are an evil person. Has to look wonderful and take forever.
I use dowels but I turn them on my lathe out of scrap walnut. I use two and glue them in with hand made glue that is derived from the saliva of a certain bird known locally as the foo bird, found only in certain jungles of the amazon. They are very rare and they have an unusal defense mechanism. When persued they will fly in ever decreasing concentric circles finally disapperaing up their own fundamental orifice, coming out occasionally to throw shit at the enemy. No that isnt true, actually they will fly and shit on your head. Somewhat like our native pidgeon. The key issue here is if you wipe it off you die instantly. A lot of people have wiped it off after months and they died. You have to let it wear off. That is where the saying came from, "If the foo shits wear it."
Posts: 4917 | Location: Wenatchee, WA, USA | Registered: 17 December 2001
I just did one on a model 70 project; I use dowels and drill and mill both the ebony block and the stock in the Bridgeport. That way I know bothe will fit up correctly.
Chic, we got something like that in MN, we call it the Kee-bird. This one only comes out in the cold weather and never if it is warmer than -35. You can tell it is the bird when you hear its call:
KEEEEE-rist it's cold out here!
Jim
Posts: 5523 | Location: Minnesota | Registered: 10 July 2002
FLA, you are a very bad man... now i have to go rip mine apart...
1 dowel, tablesaw to rough square, bridgeport to get closer.. and a nice sharp knife, and a fine file... and I be it will STILL look like junk.. commonly called "jeff did it"...
put it on before it was shaped? heh.. would have been great, but I received it without...
Jeffe, Thats even simplier, when you have the stock turned for your pattern request an Ebony Forend tip, and don't terry on the situation, get passed it quick and it will only dawn on the turner after you have hung up the phone,,,it works, trust me.
Same if ording a simi turn I suppose..They will do a f.e. tip for about $25.00 extra I would think??? I don't work from simi turned stuff so I am not sure of this but it seems logical..
Posts: 42176 | Location: Twin Falls, Idaho | Registered: 04 June 2000
Ray, it's (yet another) stock for my 500... i went, got good advice, better help, and have been very patient... and then I decided i really wanted one... so, a little work for me. .. perhaps it will work out good
Could you post a picture of this forend tip treatment? I don't think I have seen one...
jpb
Quote: I don't use dowel or screws. Put a tenon on the end of the stock and machine a mortise for the tenon in the ebony. Like the Brits use to do.
Yea, it's harder to do but it looks great because at the top line of the stock you have a 1/16th band of ebony on the outside and a 1/16 band of walnut on the inside for the depth of the tenon. Even knowledgeable people scratch their heads on that one.
Posts: 1006 | Location: northern Sweden | Registered: 22 May 2002
There are a couple of ways of torturing yourself installing by this method. The way they did it the old way which is all done by hand. You wind up with a tapered tenon and hand fit the forend tip to it. That is the method I used in the attached photo. I did it that way because I wanted it to be authentic to the vintage of the gun.
The second method is to shape the tenon on the pattern and cut the mortice in the ebony or horn using a router fixture, milling machine or whatever you have to cut an accurate mortice.
Posts: 1634 | Location: Washington State | Registered: 29 December 2002
As an aside, my nephew has been living in Sweden for about 3 years now. He is studying to be a furniture maker. Right now, he is learning to carve. We are all very proud of his skill.
spegelram fardig. Does that mean mirror?
Posts: 1634 | Location: Washington State | Registered: 29 December 2002
Heck!!! I always thought it was the "George Shearing Bird"--- The one that flies in ever diminishing circles until it dissappears up its own as----e screeching " KeKEKE Krist,it`s dark in here!" Aloha, Mark
Posts: 978 | Location: S Oregon | Registered: 06 March 2004
My dad used to have a great setup for doing forend tips. It consisted of a radial arm saw configured for horizontal drilling, (all you need is a chuck) then he fixed a wodden box atop the table with a small guide bar running parallel to the bit. Makes very precise dowell holes every time in a snap.
Posts: 10173 | Location: Tooele, Ut | Registered: 27 September 2001
