The Accurate Reloading Forums THE ACCURATE RELOADING.COM FORUMS Guns, Politics, Gunsmithing & Reloading Gunsmithing Rem 700 fires when safety is moved to fire.Go | New | Find | Notify | Tools | Reply | |
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My nephew bought a rem 700 2 years ago and has worked fine until now. The gun will fire everytime you move the safety forward. Is there anything a handyman can do to fix this or is this best left to a professional. Thanks in advance Bama7x57 | ||
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sounds to me llike the trigger has been adjusted with insufficient sear engagement | |||
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Have someone who knows what they are doing do the "repair". | |||
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Check the Remington web site, there is a recall for this problem. In politics as in theology! "The heart of the wise inclines to the right, But the heart of the fool to the left." Ecclesiastes 10:2 | |||
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I sent in a Rem 660 for the same problem and they put a new trigger on it. The pull is a little heavier (3 lbs) than before, but it breaks really clean....I'm happy!! The year of the .30-06!! 100 years of mostly flawless performance on demand.....Celebrate...buy a new one!! | |||
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The trigger has not been adjusted. I will check on the recall Thanks Bama7x57 | |||
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I found a recall on 710 rifles and a safety modification on pre 82 700 rifles. Anybody have more info or a link to some info. This is bad timing since it's right in the middle of deer season. Bama | |||
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Was it new when he bought it? Like others have said the sear is not engaging. If it hasn't been adjusted then dirt or maybe a broken spring in the trigger. As usual just my $.02 Paul K | |||
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My fathers 700 did that two years ago. It would also occational fire when you closed the bolt. We sent the rifle off to David Gentry and had the safety swapped out and a Timney trigger installed. There has been a lot of controversy over the trigger design Remington uses. | |||
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One factor that can cause this is spraying lube in the trigger assembly.This will eventually gum things up and cause problems. | |||
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It was new when purchased. I have not checked it out yet. I will check on the lube gumming and possibly dirt accumulation. This makes me love my Winchester triggers even more. Thanks guys Bama | |||
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There was recently a post on here by a gentleman that was having the exact same problem with his Winchester 70 safety/trigger...how could that be????  | |||
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That's fantastic, and the Mauser 98 I used in Namibia had the same problem. I am sure you will not find a single manufactuerer that hasn't made a piece of shit rifle. | |||
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Remington 700 triggers have a floating sear that is only held in place against the trigger lever by spring tension. The garbage the factory sprays on their guns will sometimes cause this floating sear to stick out of position when the springs tension is reduced in an effort to acquire a better trigger pull. If this floating sear is not held tight against the trigger lever when the safety is released, BANG! Sometimes the cure is nothing more than a good cleaning of the trigger assembly, to remove as much of the crap as possible and to restore the connection and free movement of the lever and floating sear. Soooo, were it me, I would give the trigger assembly a good cleaning and then assess the problem. You can accomplish this somewhat with the trigger still attached to the rifle. If you don't have access to a parts washer, get yourself a coffee can of Kerosene and a 1" wide paint brush and clean the crap out of the trigger assembly. The idea is to get as much solvent inside the trigger assembly as possible. Of course you have to pull the barrelled action from the stock to do it, but you can swish the trigger group around throught the solvent to wash away any loose particles that you can break free. Be sure to work the trigger and safety back and forth to help dislodge any of the dirt. Once you think you have the trigger assembly as clean as you can get it, blow it dry with compressed air and then spray some WD-40 throughout the trigger assembly and work it in by pulling the trigger lever and safety assembly. Work the bolt, safety and trigger assembly several times and then blow and wipe the trigger assembly free of any remaining WD-40 and re-test the trigger/safety. If at this point there is no change, then you will probably need to seek the assistance of a professional. | |||
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Bama, Malm's advice is a textbook view of trigger cleaning. Before you try that though, I would use lighter fluid to rinse out the trigger mechanism from the top. Obviously, you don't do this in the wife's kitchen. If washing the trigger does not work, the next step is to repair or replace the trigger unit. You can let Remington have a go at it, or have your local gunsmith take it apart or replace it. One fix is to epoxy the connector to the trigger blade (needs a recut of the angled part of the connector though). The two Reminton rifles I have use a Canjar trigger and a Neil Jones modified factory unit. You can also send your trigger unit to a specialist to be rebuilt for a very reasonable sum...jim jim if you're too busy to hunt,you're too busy. | |||
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Another cleaner which works well and dries almost instantly, is "brake cleaner" which is available at any automotive supply source. Just remove the gun from the stock, open the bolt, and spray the trigger thoroughly from all angles. Then check the barreled action/trigger/safety for proper function. It will be dry by the time you can get it back nto the stock. (Hint, look for brake cleaner which says "residue free" on the container...it will not leave ANY oil in there to begin accumulating debris again.) BTW, this can and does happen with all designs of triggers except the military style-Mauser/Springfield-type designs, and even there it will happen sometimes if the unknowledgeable try to adjust or stone the pulls on them. I've had it happen on my Jewell triggers, on the Canjar in my pre-'64 Model 70 .270 FW, my Sakos, etc. (Of course, I shoot something on the order of 10-15,000 hi-power rounds per annum, which tends to dirty things up and doesn't leave trigger cleaning time available every session.) It is not a frequent occurance, but if you shoot enough years, eventually it may happen. My country gal's just a moonshiner's daughter, but I love her still. | |||
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I will never us wd-40 on the trigger machanism.It attracts dust and in time will cause problems. | |||
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I replaced the trigger on mine with a Shilen trigger. It's adjustable and it works very well. | |||
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bama, it is a problem that the Remington triggers have had from the get go and a large number of law suits have been settled by Remington because there are documents that state they knew of the problem almost from the beginning. It is called a Fire On Safety Release and is not a good thing on a rifle. Remington does not have a patent on it but they could get one with their track record. I have a customer who had the same problem with a model 700 and he sent it to the factory. The said he had adjusted the trigger and charged him for a new one. He told me he had not and that he had to pay for the new trigger to get his gun back. I will add one thing. The designer of the 700 trigger was made aware of the problem and notified the front office by interoffice memo (the aforementioined "document") and stated that the fix for the trigger would cost something like 16 cents. I am not sure what that cost involved but certainly not shipping. At that time the number of rifles sold was low, the time frame being in the first or second year. Remington staff chose to ignore the problem and as a result there have a been a large number of accidents including deaths. Now if any corporation makes that kind of decision and I know about it, I will not give them one fucking dime of my money and I will go out of my way to let anyone else know about it particularly any friends of mine. At that point they are on their own, but that kind of corporate menality will get none of my business or good will. | |||
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Don’t hold back Chic...tell us how you really feel about Remington?  | |||
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ROfl, are you strong enough to take it? | |||
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One of the modifications I do to EVERY Remington trigger involves drilling and tapping (2X56) the trigger lever, and screwing the floating sear/connector directly to the lever. This plus a couple of other little geometrical changes and the Remington trigger joins the ranks of some of the best triggers I've ever used. But like Chic stated, it has an inherent problem and you have to deal with that issue first. And if Remington is unwilling to do it, then I would be happy to do it for a nominal fee of course...  | |||
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Man, that would suck more than anything that has sucked before if my 375 RUM went off because of the safety. I mean, you are already in a shooting position(we hope), but you really dont have a good hold of the rifle with that hand while releasing the safety. Guess I just have to start walking around the woods with the safety off. NOT!! If one were to replace their Rem trigger group, which would be better, a Shilen or Timney? | |||
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When the solvent in WD40 evaportes, you have a thin, hard varnish. I recently acquired a Canjar trigger for a 700 that was all bound up. Worked great after removing the varnish from the sides of the trigger lever. The factory triggers come with a small quantity of moly powder, usually visible on the sides of the housing. That is the only lube that should be put inside a trigger mechanism. Early triggers may have had some oil but that is the wrong way to go, as pointed out by others. | |||
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 I doubt you could come up with anything I haven’t heard a zillion times already. I just got a kick out of your post and thought I’d poke a little fun is all.  | |||
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Sure, moly grease is much better for triggers than WD40, but not everybody will have moly grease. And so while WD40 would not be MY first choice, everybody in the U.S. has a can of it sitting next to the ductape, and if nothing else, it will provide some protection against corrosion... | |||
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Those Remington triggers are great if you like them around 6-8 pounds the way they come out of the box! One of mine would slam fire at anything under 3.5 pounds. Take the gun to a gun smith and he should be able to fix it. | |||
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Rick, given your occupation and what you go through, I knew you could take anything I could say and a hell of a lot more than I could dish out now or at any time in my life. Mine was equally done in fun. You going to be able to make the Reno gun show this year? Might be a good place to have a beer together. Still not sure if I am going but I am leaning that way. | |||
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Chic, I missed seeing you last year, so I hope you come this time around...jim if you're too busy to hunt,you're too busy. | |||
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Bama Malm is correct, most of the time Remington trigger problems are caused by trash and gummed up old oil in the mechanism. Anytime you clean and lubricate your rifle most of us are guilty of standing it up when we store it, then the oil migrates down the action and accumilates in the trigger mechanism. Then after it gets old it gets gummy and sticky especially in cold hunting weather. I have Remingtons with this problem brought in to my shop around 6 to 12 times in a year. When the gun goes off it is always when they take it off safe. A lot of customers comment that it did not do it at the gun range when sighting in, but started when they went hunting. I always point out that when they sighted it in in September it was not near as cold as in November, when old oil gets cold it gets even more sticky. The only differance between the old triggers and the replacement ones is the old triggers had a bolt lock and it is mandatory to take off safe to open the bolt. The new triggers do not lock the bolt when on safe hence you can leave the safety engaged when opening the bolt to unload the gun. When I get these trigger problems in I always totally detail strip the trigger mechanism, thoroughly clean every part, hone all the burrs (there are plenty), then apply Drislide (a dry moly coating), remove the bolt locking arm, assemble and adjust to a nice crisp appropriate weight of pull. I always point out to the customer what caused their problems and explain how to avoid further trouble. I also show them that the rifle can now be unloaded with the safety engaged. One more caution to the guys who attempt to adjust their own triggers on Remingtons. If you are not thoroughly trained it is possible to not have enough spring tension holding the floating sear. If this condition exists, sear engagement is erratic and you are carrying around a time bomb. Same goes for correct sear engagement and over travel. Craftsman | |||
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When is it? | |||
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I believe it is the weekend of the 21st of January | |||
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Great, my boy gets into Ft. Bliss from Iraq the first week of January and he should be home in Marysville around that time. I can do a two-fer and buy you a beer or two for dragging M1Tanker off that damned mountain! | |||
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My answer is get rid of the remington trigger/sear setup and go with a jewel or similar. I would also consider replacing the safety with a gentry 3 position if it was on a large bore 700 or similar. I have in fact done that on mine. The rem trigger setup with that floating sear is an accident waiting to happen in my opinion. It is only a matter of time before it gets gunked up in the field. Happiness is a warm gun | |||
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Rifle Basix makes a nice aftermarket remington trigger. Remington should just quit selling their rifles with a trigger installed and put a $75 midway gift certificate in the box to be used toward the trigger of your choice It ridiculous they haven't addressed a very simple design flaw. Weagle | |||
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Say and think what you will, but Robar and the guys at The Triggersmith can set up the factory trigger to work like a charm...and with complete safety. The armorers at Quantico have also never used anything except factory Remington triggers on the M40’s and have never had problems with them. Maybe they know something that you guys are missing????? | |||
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Actually, there is NO Design Problem at all. There are a lot of "Experts" that will try to convince anyone who listens otherwise though. These are the things that can make any Trigger Assembly act improperly: 1. Trash and residue within the mechanism. 2. Worn or broken parts. 3. Improperly adjusted. 4. Mechanism binds when placed in stock.(for Mike375) And last but certainly not least, 5. Simply handling the rifle improperly. That is it, nothing else. If in fact the "Design" was bad, then all the Remington rifles would exhibit this problem. The foolishness of "claiming" a Design Problem is the same as getting a nail in a Goodyear tire and then claiming ALL Goodyear tires have a Design Problem. | |||
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Well I read a few years ago that 40 guys have been shot due to Remingtons firing inadvertently when the safety is pushed off. And it happened to me on a nearly new Remington. So that is enough to convince me there is a design problem. If you like Rem, that's fine, but either replace the factory trigger with a Timney or Jewell, or perform the operation described by Malm above. Be safe. It's just not worth the risk. | |||
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Hot Core, now we get the corporate bull shit from you. Do you get overtime from Remington to post this bs on here. The designer of the trigger stated it had a problem. You go argue with him. | |||
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The Accurate Reloading Forums THE ACCURATE RELOADING.COM FORUMS Guns, Politics, Gunsmithing & Reloading Gunsmithing Rem 700 fires when safety is moved to fire.
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