I am working on a CZ23 Czech action that has a really heavy bolt lift. The bolt does match the action as does the extractor. I re-barreled it to .308 and added a bolt handle and Wisner safety (modified mil sleeve type). Also changed the spring to Wolfe 22 lb. Has the military trigger.
Before I go to cutting springs and changing angles thought someone here might have some ideas on common causes.
No warpage on the bolt handle weld as the sleeve fit up perfect.

Was it heavy before you welded on the handle? Did you re harden the cocking cam? Not always necessary.
Check the internal firing pin safety cam too.

It was a little heavy in its original configuration, I had to remove a small amount of metal from the top of the cocking piece to allow the safety handle to rotate back the required ammount .020 to .030. no other modifications were made.
The cam surfaces look ok no divots or scratches ????

Put the original spring back in it.

Check for bolt lug setback. You'll have to remove the barrel to so this, but it should be one of your first checks before putting a new barrel on an old Mauser action.

Did you put in a new trigger? Cocking piece may be over-riding the trigger sear. I have seen this before with the new model Timney triggers.

There is a method to check for set back without removing the barrel.

I should have said that! Remove the trigger and then test it. I was remiss..... Some triggers reset before the cocking piece is over them and it jams up, but it is usually more than a hard cocking action. (I was going to say a hard cock, but decided not to use that term) Solution is a flat bottom cocking piece.
As for set back; No; that will not cause hard cocking if you didn't fire it. Once the lugs jump over the recess, they are no harder to cock than normal. Highly unlikely that is your problem; in fact, is isn't.

But I will tell you one thing that will cause hard cocking and is widely overlooked; the internal firing pin safety cam. I see it in about 10% of cases where the firing pins aren't original, and some newly made ones. Had one this week. If the FP cam does not clear the internal bolt surface, it will be hard to cock. Most Mauser shooters don't even know this safety feature exists.

It has the military trigger at this time, also the original cocking piece. I am not understanding what you are referring to on the FP cam. The barrel is not in the action at this time as it will be a takedown when finished. It has the original firing pin.
I will remove the trigger and see if that helps.

I'm finishing up one where the extractor collar is so damned tight I could barely get the extractor back onto it. Definitely adding some resistance to the bolt throw.

take out the rear screw and try again, might be compressing part of the trigger

Original trigger will not make it harder to cock. Unless as Jeff says. Only some Timneys.
If you look at the firing pin, you will see the safety retracting cam; it is next to and part of the main body right behind the thin part. Something every Mauser crank needs to know about. I would post a picture, if I had time. Come over and I will show you.

The Timmy trigger in one of my 98's came a little loose.

Made it very hard to operate. Once I tighten it the bolt worked as normal.

If you didn't re-harden the cocking cam notch on the bolt you definitely need to do that. Best to polish it up a bit before hardening and you can even lap the cocking piece to to the bolt a bit to ensure good even contact (the ramp surface).

OP said it was heavy before he welded on the handle.

I just went through the same problem, hard bolt lift with an FN action, flat bottom cocking piece, Timney trigger. I took about .015 off the bottom and it cyred the problem. By the way, this was the second time I ran into that problem, both with the new Timney featherweight (No trigger safety) trigger

Here are a few things to rule out - any signs of the cocking piece being tight in the bridge? Is the safety lever clear of the cocking piece in the off position? Check the firing pin to see if it is straight and true at the grooves.
Couple more. Any faint clunk in the bolt as you rotate it from the closed position? Have you cleaned and lubed the entire bolt and lug raceway?
Keep us posted.
CB

quote:

Originally posted by Jim Kobe:
I just went through the same problem, hard bolt lift with an FN action, flat bottom cocking piece, Timney trigger. I took about .015 off the bottom and it cyred the problem. By the way, this was the second time I ran into that problem, both with the new Timney featherweight (No trigger safety) trigger

Bottom of the cocking piece Jim? This is a standard 98 trigger on this one if I'm not mistaken.

quote:

Originally posted by custombolt:
Bottom of the cocking piece Jim? This is a standard 98 trigger on this one if I'm not mistaken.

Not with the standard military trigger, I was referring to the Timney.

I guess I would start at re-hardening and polishing the cocking piece as was mentioned.

I think I got it, I stoned all the sliding and rotating surfaces. Polished the cocking piece and sleeve as well as the firing pin, also cleaned up the cam surfaces on the firing pin and bolt. I did shorten the original spring 5 coils, will have to wait and see if that effects firing. It seems to be much lighter to operate when held in the vice, the stock is still on the way ( I think) and gave everything a good layer of lube.
Thanks for all the ideas. It seems after you work on something for a while you become blind to the obvious.

I think that the shortening the spring is what did it.

I agree with dpcd re the new spring being the issue but why shorten the new Wolfe 22lb spring, should have just put the original one back in for starters?

I had a Winchester Model 54 with a Timney. Bolt wouldn't come out because the top of the trigger housing held it back. I thought it was just the design of the 54. Wish I had given it more thought back then.

quote:

Originally posted by Jim Kobe:

quote:

Originally posted by custombolt:
Bottom of the cocking piece Jim? This is a standard 98 trigger on this one if I'm not mistaken.

Not with the standard military trigger, I was referring to the Timney.

I guess I would start at re-hardening and polishing the cocking piece as was mentioned.