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Help with refinishing stock
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Picture of Steel Slinger
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I'm about to undertake my first attempt at stock work. I have a pretty good idea of what I want the end result to look like, but when it comes to getting it there, I need some advice.

Are there any specific tools I should get for the woodwork? Right now I'm looking at getting a file/rasp set, maybe a bedding tool, and also using a dremel tool.

Are there any good books I can get that will help me?

Do I need to do anything to strip the finish that is already on it?

When I refinish it, what products do I need to use? I want it to be fairly light in color. The stock is made of teak, and has some nice lines in it. I would like to accent those lines as much as possible.

Do I need to seal it, apply oils/wax, and what kind of stain do I need? I want to try and make it as weather resistant as possible.

What are the steps in finishing the stock after I have reshaped it and sanded it smooth?

So far these are the main questions I have, but I'm sure I will have more later on.

Thanks


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Posts: 315 | Location: Fayetteville, Arkansas | Registered: 01 July 2005Reply With Quote
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Brother, you would probably be better off buying one of the many good books that contain this info, or doing a search on the net for articles.

The process ain’t all that hard to do but typing it all out would be pretty lengthy.

Professional Stockmaking by Dave Wesbook has allot of good info, as does Riflesmithing by Jack Mitchell. I believe that several guys have posted hot links to articles on the net that deal specifically with hand rubbed oil finishing so try a search on here also.

The basics are, sealing the wood and filling the pours...then building up a finish and sanding it down until you get what you’re looking for. The specific products and techniques will vary slightly from person to person but they all fullfil those basic functions to get a finished product.
 
Posts: 4574 | Location: Valencia, California | Registered: 16 March 2005Reply With Quote
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First thing I would do is get rid of the dremel tool.
 
Posts: 323 | Location: Fairbanks AK | Registered: 27 August 2002Reply With Quote
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A Dremel tool is the bane of all beginners. It seems so right and yet it is SOOOOO wrong! You'll be better off forgetting the idea of "fast" and just take small bites with sand paper backed by firm materials, being sure to reinstall the metal every so often so you don't end up with a lot of proud steel above the wood line.


"Experience" is the only class you take where the exam comes before the lesson.
 
Posts: 11143 | Location: Texas, USA | Registered: 22 September 2003Reply With Quote
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not only can f--k thim up quite with a dremel tool, if you're just refinishing, you sure don't need rasps and files. Use a stripper to get the old finish off, then sandpaper on a block and elbow grease. pick your finish and don't hurry it, especially if you use an oil - leave it dry well and when applying see how much area you can cover with how little oil.
 
Posts: 13466 | Location: faribault mn | Registered: 16 November 2004Reply With Quote
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Rick - thanks for the book references.

Here's what I'm looking at doing. The rifle is a yugo M48. I'm going to sporterize it using the original stock. I'm planning on trashing the handguard, shortening the forend and cleaning it up, and doing a LOT of work on the butt. I'm wanting to replace the original metal buttplate with a recoil pad, but it's going to require removing a lot of wood to make it fit nicely. That, and I just don't like how thick the butt is anyway. I'm also wanting to free float the barrel, then bed the action. I may do a little trimming on the lines of the stock here and there. Haven't made up my mind yet on that.

I wasn't sure if I was going to use the dremel or not. It was just a thought. I definitely don't expect this to be fast. I figure it will probably take me several weeks if not a couple months to get it just the way I want it.


FiSTers... Running is useless.
 
Posts: 315 | Location: Fayetteville, Arkansas | Registered: 01 July 2005Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by AKJD:
First thing I would do is get rid of the dremel tool.


Amen to that! I wouldn't want to tell you the number of things I've screwed up with one.


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Posts: 626 | Location: The soggy side of Washington State | Registered: 13 July 2003Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by butchloc:
not only can f--k thim up quite with a dremel tool, if you're just refinishing, you sure don't need rasps and files.


Actually he will need to rasp or gouge out as he will be removing a whole lot of wood. From what I uderstand this isn't just refinishing. cheersroger


Old age is a high price to pay for maturity!!! Some never pay and some pay and never reap the reward. Wisdom comes with age! Sometimes age comes alone..
 
Posts: 10226 | Location: Temple City CA | Registered: 29 April 2003Reply With Quote
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Picture of jeffeosso
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a dremel tool has a purpose with stock making....

(this is a JOKE)
take a sanding disk... run it at full speed, and grag it in the palm of you ON hand....

this will give you a grasshopper wound to make you go SLOW with hand tools

jumping


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Posts: 40232 | Location: Conroe, TX | Registered: 01 June 2002Reply With Quote
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I think Teak sawdust can be toxic - use a mask when you sand. I bet it will look great!!!!!


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Posts: 933 | Location: Casa Grande, AZ | Registered: 11 June 2005Reply With Quote
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You might want to consider some sort of fore end tip to hide that cleaning rod hole going right down the center of the fore end.

Or maybe glas in a section of wooden dowel.

Rojelio
 
Posts: 495 | Location: South Texas | Registered: 13 November 2003Reply With Quote
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Home Gunsmithing, by Jim Carmicheal is another good all around book, that you can find used on the net. All the guys told you 'bout the dremel so thats covered. Smiler
 
Posts: 238 | Location: NY | Registered: 10 February 2006Reply With Quote
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Steel Slinger; do a search of this sight. There has been a lot of information and discussion as to how to refinish a stock...Got all the info I needed when I did mine. Good Luck, take it slow, you can always take off more, its tough to put it back.
 
Posts: 253 | Location: Texas by way of NC, Indiana, Ark, LA, OKLA | Registered: 23 January 2005Reply With Quote
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Yeah, I get it... no dremel tool. shame

Roger is right, I will be removing a LOT of wood from this stock. As mentioned, I will take it slow.

I was wondering what I would do about the cleaning rod hole. I don't really want a plastic forend. I've been looking at trying to put an ebony tip on it. I read about using dowels and gluing it in. The question I have is about forming it. Should I put it on before I do any shaping to it, or go ahead and cut out part of the barrel channel and then put it on and finish it with the rest of the stock? Also, is there anything else I would need to know about putting it on?


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Posts: 315 | Location: Fayetteville, Arkansas | Registered: 01 July 2005Reply With Quote
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