I've recently purchased a new Savage 112BVSS in .25-06, went to try it and I'm not even getting a firing pin mark on the primer. The ammo works well in a 700 Rem & a Ruger # 1. I have removed the bolt, released the firing pin manually, no problem. Tried a few possible solutions suggested by the retailer, no go. Savage isn't accepting any e-mail at the moment so I may have to call them tomorrow during business hours. In the meantime, I was just wondering if anyone else has experienced similar problems.

Unless you have the means to pull the barrel and take measurements, start here. Pull the bolt and release the firing pin and make sure it is protruding through the bolt face. If it is and you have a way to measure it, there should be around .055 - .065 protrusion.

If that checks out then you can try to determine how far the bolt face is from the back of the case. If you have a No-go headspace gauge, insert it and see if you feel any contact, or, place a dab of grease on the bolt face and add shims (paper, cardboard) to the face of the bolt until you feel contact with an EMPTY case as you close the bolt, and then measure the thickness of the combined shims. Report back.

quote:

Originally posted by malm:
Unless you have the means to pull the barrel and take measurements, start here. Pull the bolt and release the firing pin and make sure it is protruding through the bolt face. If it is and you have a way to measure it, there should be around .055 - .065 protrusion.

If that checks out then you can try to determine how far the bolt face is from the back of the case. If you have a No-go headspace gauge, insert it and see if you feel any contact, or, place a dab of grease on the bolt face and add shims (paper, cardboard) to the face of the bolt until you feel contact with an EMPTY case as you close the bolt, and then measure the thickness of the combined shims. Report back.

Hi guy. I appreciate your response. I was looking forward to trying it out this weekend but I guess it wasn't ment to be. I'll try & keep my reply in some chronological order.
The ammo I tried works well in a Ruger # 1 & a 700 Rem. I 'tried' an empty primed case, with the stock on & off. No difference. No sign of the firing pin even remotely making contact. Took an aluminium tip used for pushing patches through a rifle bore, smoothed & polished the end, put it on a cleaning rod, put it down the bore, pressed firmly against the bolt face & pulled the trigger. Did this a number of times, again, no sigh of contact at all. Took the action out of the stock and as far as I can tell, pulling the accurelease & the trigger, it seems to be functioning as it should. From the Savage website diagrams/pics, there appears to be a couple of slight differences between that info & the unit in my gun. If you're interested, PM me your e-mail address & I'll scan & forward you the page showing these defferences. I'm guessing it may be an update by Savage since the original info was published.
I had previously checked the firing protrusion but checked it again with a set of calipers with a dial. It seems to be 0.057". I then tried something along the line of your suggestion with paper. The paper I used is the sticky label, without the backing, that comes with Sierra bullets for documentation of load data & affixing to the cartridge box . Its thickness I miked to be 0.005". With one on the empty case base, I could definately feel the resistance, with two, the bolt was difficult to close & with three I couldn't close the bolt. While I was at that point, I went back to two, closed the bolt & pulled the trigger. Once more, no contact with the sticky paper on the bottem of the case at all.

Hey Malm, Do these still have a "Screw" on the very back of the Bolt for adjusting the Firing Pin? Or do I have this all mixed up?

Don't have a Savage handy, or I'd check it out myself.

quote:

Originally posted by Hot Core:
Hey Malm, Do these still have a "Screw" on the very back of the Bolt for adjusting the Firing Pin? Or do I have this all mixed up?

Don't have a Savage handy, or I'd check it out myself.

On the exploded diagram in the instruction manual, there is a allen head socket screw of sorts on the back end of the bolt., item 12E. Its listed as a Boltloc assembly screw and doesn't appear to have any adjustment capabilities.

just wondering, did you try any factory ammo?

the chamber MAY be long, but with the savage extractor being on the bolt, seems that it would hold it close enough to make a mark...

weird one

jeffe

Yes I did. No difference, except that all the ammo worked well in a Ruger # 1 & a Remington 700. Got me puzzled to say the least.

quote:

Originally posted by jeffeosso:
just wondering, did you try any factory ammo?

the chamber MAY be long, but with the savage extractor being on the bolt, seems that it would hold it close enough to make a mark...

weird one

jeffe

Hey Johnn, I did not want to give you a recommendation based on my "old knowledge", because it might not apply to your specific model. But, some of this might help you.

It could be something as simple as some trash inside the Bolt, or a sticky, tight spot inside the Bolt where the Firing Pin travels.

Follow the Bolt Tear Down Instructions for cleaning. Do it over a clean white Paper Towel so you can see if something drops out.

And as you put it back together, watch to see if the Screw you mentioned will allow the Firing Pin to extend just a tiny bit farther.

The Savage Bolts "used to be" one of the easiest to take apart that was made. Sure made it nice when they got trash in them.

Had a buddy call me from SC when his Savage refused to shoot. It had worked fine of course until he had a HUGE Trophy Buck about 300yds off, and then it wouldn't fire.

Told him to pull the Bolt and soak it in a jar of Diesel Fuel which he did. I got there the next day and when you picked the jar up and shook it slightly, you could see minute flecks of sand.

We pulled the Bolt the rest of the way down and gave it a thorough cleaning which fixed it. But, it had worked well for many years and we knew it was something relatively simple.

That Bolt had a Screw, directly into the rear of it, that required the use of a regular old Flat Blade screwdriver to take the Bolt apart.

But, things change.

It could be trash in the bolt but the sear surface might be stopping on something when the trigger is pulled. I would look in that area. You should be able to tell if the firing pin is going ahead the same distance when in the gun and with the bolt removed by measuring the rear of the pin in relation to the back of the bolt body.

Johnn,

Hot Core may be absolutely correct in his assessment unless Savage has changed the inside of their bolts over the years.

When the bolt is disasembled the firing pin protrusion length is adjustable on the firing pin itself as is is threaded. If this is not corrctly adjusted there will either be too much (not in this case) or not enough protrusion.

If it's the same as mine old 110, then I can realte to this first-hand as I screwed this up the first time I ever decided to take the bolt assembly completly apart on my (ancient) Savage 110.

Good Luck, hope you get your boomer back in operatin condition asap.

Hi Guys. Thanks again for all the info & suggestions. I'm a little disappointed Savage isn't accepting e-mail at present but as it is new just out of the box, I'm hoping the retail dealer will 'make things right' one way or another. If 'that' doesn't work out I'll phone Savage.
Hot Core:
I haven't taken the bolt apart, yet, but taking it out of the action I had no difficulty manually releasing the firing pin & getting it to protrude. If it is protruding then,what would stop it from protruding & at least marking the case, especially with the paper shim I tried when the bolt is in the action? You'd think there would be some sign of a strike, unless there is something else stopping the firing pin from going all the way forward. Thats why I took the action out of the stock, to make sure the trigger unit was functioning as it should. While closely watching the trigger unit, cocked the action, slowly depressed the accurelease, squeezed the trigger. All seemed to function as it should. I thought the accurelease may be stopping the sear but it was not. Again, I've kinda' resisted taking the bolt apart or taking the gun to a good local gunsmith as it hasn't fired the first shot & is new in the box. IF I get an OK of sorts from the retailer & or Savage, I'll 'go for it'. In the meantime I don't want to jeopardize the warranty. A little over cautious perhaps but with the cost of gun, mounts, scope & shipping being a touch over $1900.00 I don't want to gamble too much, at the moment. Disassembly of the bolt doesn't appear to be difficult and the. The bolt assembly screw or boltloc assembly screw on this one is a allen head or socket screw. I think for the most part it is a Model 110 action. I have an old copy of the Gun Digest Book of Exploded Firearms Drawings & for the Model 110C, D & E, Series K, I see the bolt assembly screw is slotted. Overall, very similar to what I have. I've scanned the parts list & drawing from my owners manual and can send it if you've interested.

quote:

Originally posted by Johnn:
...I haven't taken the bolt apart, yet, but taking it out of the action I had no difficulty manually releasing the firing pin & getting it to protrude. If it is protruding then,what would stop it from protruding & at least marking the case, especially with the paper shim I tried when the bolt is in the action? You'd think there would be some sign of a strike, unless there is something else stopping the firing pin from going all the way forward. ....

Hey Johnn, That does sound like you are using a rational approach. Other than being able to "adjust" it just a bit more forward though, I don't know.

I do appreciate you and Gerry verifying the "slot" was in the older ones. Hard for us old folks to remember things from day to day, let alone a problem from the `70s or `80s(can't even remember that )

I wish I could help you more, but I can't.

Best of luck to you.

Shooting in the dark here...

I assume you can actually see and hear the striker/firing pin falling when you pull the trigger? I'm not trying to insult anyone, but is there any chance the trigger mechanism is somehow not allowing the release of the striker!?!?!?

Can the Accutrigger be adjusted so far as to prevent the trigger release...too much sear engagement/not enough trigger travel?

Earlier it was suggested that you measure the protrusion of the rear portion of the striker before and after pulling the trigger to verify that it actually falls a sufficient distance when in the rifle...what was that measurement???

I'm happy again!! A guy, PEI ROB, from the Canadian Gunnutz website diagnosed the problem. The rear screw on the front scope mount was sticking through and not allowing the bolt to colse completely. From touching to not touching its about 0.060" too long. When I felt inside the action I could feel it so I removed it, chambered an empty primed brass, pulled the trigger and bang, well actually a small pop!! Anyway, problem solved. Thank you all for your interest & suggestions.

quote:

Originally posted by Johnn:
I'm happy again!! A guy, PEI ROB, from the Canadian Gunnutz website diagnosed the problem. The rear screw on the front scope mount was sticking through and not allowing the bolt to colse completely. From touching to not touching its about 0.060" too long. When I felt inside the action I could feel it so I removed it, chambered an empty primed brass, pulled the trigger and bang, well actually a small pop!! Anyway, problem solved. Thank you all for your interest & suggestions.

Something as simple as the bolt not closing. Go figure. Glad to hear it's working.

quote:

Originally posted by Johnn:
I'm happy again!! A guy, PEI ROB, from the Canadian Gunnutz website diagnosed the problem. The rear screw on the front scope mount was sticking through and not allowing the bolt to colse completely. ...

Hey Johnn, Good for PEI ROB and especially good for you!

I've never realized that was possible. So, the Bolt Handle could actually "close" into position, but the Bolt Head was not "properly" in Battery.

Is that because of the Floating Bolt Head?

Did it create a skewed Bolt Head angle in the Chamber?

quote:

Originally posted by Hot Core:

quote:

Originally posted by Johnn:
I'm happy again!! A guy, PEI ROB, from the Canadian Gunnutz website diagnosed the problem. The rear screw on the front scope mount was sticking through and not allowing the bolt to colse completely. ...

Hey Johnn, Good for PEI ROB and especially good for you!

I've never realized that was possible. So, the Bolt Handle could actually "close" into position, but the Bolt Head was not "properly" in Battery.

Is that because of the Floating Bolt Head?

Did it create a skewed Bolt Head angle in the Chamber?

My daughter & son in law each have the same rifle with the exception their's are chambered for .22-250. They each purchased theirs at different times and on our last visit, I noticed a difference in the bolt handle configuration between their two. Remembering this I wasn't too concerned when it appeared that my bolt handle was sitting a little high. Pulling the accurelease & trigger, when it did let off, it sounded as though everything was functioning as it should. Live & learn. NOW, to go try it!!! Oh, I have 'tested' with an empty primed brass.

Success, and how sweet it is!! After bore sighting and a few test shots @ 50 & 100 yds, the three shot group @ 100 measured 0.624". The longest distance at our small range is 185 yds & the three shot group there was 0.995". These are the first reloads I've tried in it. I've stuck the two targets on a page of paper with the load info & scanned it but I don't have the 'ability'or computer skills to post it. I could e-mail the scan to anyone interested.