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Ruger 77 trigger job
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I have a 77 MKII in 300 winny that I would like to fix the trigger on. A friend showed me some good literature that he found that he followed and fixed the trigger on his .06 in the same model. Anyone else have any experience with this particular model?

I know all the cautionary stuff, don't do it yourself, etc, so I'm looking for help not a lecture Wink
 
Posts: 104 | Location: Alaska | Registered: 24 June 2006Reply With Quote
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I've done a number of Model 77 Mk II triggers. You can fix the factory trigger by changing out the spring, plus polishing mating parts for a nice 2 1/2 pound pull. Of the aftermarket triggers, I like the Rifle Basix best as it is easier to install. With the Timney and Spec Tech triggers, you must hand file the safety/trigger interface to get the safety to work properly. That requires some time and patience to get it right. The Rifle Basix trigger handles that safety issue in a different, more user friendly way.

Don




 
Posts: 5798 | Registered: 10 July 2004Reply With Quote
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I'm thinking to start with refining the factory trigger. Hope that works, trying to keep cost to a minimum as this is my work horse hunting rifle, nothing fancy.
 
Posts: 104 | Location: Alaska | Registered: 24 June 2006Reply With Quote
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K, just be careful to not over refine it. Ruger triggers and stuff are made from sintered (powdered) metal, and are surface hardened only.. which you cut through the "polish" which is the hardness, things go pear shaped quickly


opinions vary band of bubbas and STC hunting Club

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Posts: 39594 | Location: Conroe, TX | Registered: 01 June 2002Reply With Quote
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I think I ve put in 5 spec tech triggers in ruger MKIIs now the frist one took about 40 min the rest about 20 had to do very little fitting and they all worked great.
 
Posts: 19581 | Location: wis | Registered: 21 April 2001Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by jeffeosso:
K, just be careful to not over refine it. Ruger triggers and stuff are made from sintered (powdered) metal, and are surface hardened only.. which you cut through the "polish" which is the hardness, things go pear shaped quickly


Good point about not sanding through the surface hardened parts. I just knock off some of the surface roughness with 400 paper, then hit it again with 800, and lube the surfaces with Molly paste. You don't want to over do the polishing as Jeff says.
The spring change is the more important part of getting a decent pull. I keep a box of springs that I select from and cut the spring to the same length as the factory spring. Don't cut coils off of the factory spring as that is a no no.

Don




 
Posts: 5798 | Registered: 10 July 2004Reply With Quote
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