THE ACCURATERELOADING.COM GUNSMITHING FORUM


Moderators: jeffeosso
Go
New
Find
Notify
Tools
Reply
  
Speed Lock bolts and flag safties
 Login/Join
 
One of Us
Picture of Rick R
posted
I have a Whitworth in .375 that the original owner did some stock work on and stuck a Lyman receiver sight on. I love the rifle, hate the sliding safety.

I would like to convert it over to a military flag safety but the Whitworth bolt is apparently a speed lock variant and the bolt body / cocking piece are different than a real Mauser. Does anyone have any advise how to proceed with this modification? I take it that the top of the speed lock cocking piece can be cut to allow the military style safety to work but I'm leery of taking a hacksaw/Dremel/arc welder to the part. Any guidance would be appreciated.
 
Posts: 1912 | Location: Charleston, WV, USA | Registered: 10 January 2003Reply With Quote
One of Us
posted Hide Post
If it has the speedlock you will probably need a new old style cocking piece.


Jim Kobe
10841 Oxborough Ave So
Bloomington MN 55437
952.884.6031
Professional member American Custom Gunmakers Guild

 
Posts: 5521 | Location: Minnesota | Registered: 10 July 2002Reply With Quote
One of Us
Picture of Rick R
posted Hide Post
Jim,
I've tried an original military cocking piece and it doesn't rest properly on the end of the bolt. You have to push it about .15" against the firing pin spring to close the bolt, somewhat like an Enfield.

The cam section of the bolt is cut entirely differently from the Santa Barbara Mauser you put the side swing safety on for me. I almost think that I need someone to weld up and re-contour the cam section to allow the use of a standard cocking piece.

This photo has the bolt from my 1939 Husqvarna on the left and the Whitworth with military shroud and cocking piece on the right:



Feel like a project? Smiler
 
Posts: 1912 | Location: Charleston, WV, USA | Registered: 10 January 2003Reply With Quote
one of us
Picture of JBrown
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by Rick R:
I almost think that I need someone to weld up and re-contour the cam section to allow the use of a standard cocking piece.


Uhmmm, no. There are ways to do what you want to do, but welding and remachining the cocking cam is NASA level stuff.


Jason

"You're not hard-core, unless you live hard-core."
_______________________

Hunting in Africa is an adventure. The number of variables involved preclude the possibility of a perfect hunt. Some problems will arise. How you decide to handle them will determine how much you enjoy your hunt.

Just tell yourself, "it's all part of the adventure." Remember, if Robert Ruark had gotten upset every time problems with Harry
Selby's flat bed truck delayed the safari, Horn of the Hunter would have read like an indictment of Selby. But Ruark rolled with the punches, poured some gin, and enjoyed the adventure.

-Jason Brown
 
Posts: 6838 | Location: Nome, Alaska(formerly SW Wyoming) | Registered: 22 December 2003Reply With Quote
One of Us
posted Hide Post
Rick,

The easiest thing may be to get a new bolt. Sarco has Mark X magnum bolts for $95 for the stripped bolt. It should have similar bolt handle and fit your stock. The cocking cam is standard Mauser and will take the military parts (may need fitting). I have used a couple on 375 Ruger projects. Easier than reworking a military bolt. Here is the link: http://www.e-sarcoinc.com/mk10...numboltstripped.aspx

The only catch is headspace, but you may get lucky. Definitely make sure the headspace is good if you take my suggestion. Safety first.

Jeremy
 
Posts: 1480 | Location: Indiana | Registered: 28 January 2011Reply With Quote
One of Us
posted Hide Post
You definitely have the "speedlock" version. In order to fit one of my conversions to that action, the cocking piece needs to be ground back on the top surface the amount the cocking piece sits ead of the standard. Fairly simple procedure with the correct equipment. The difference between the two is the amount the cocking piece sits further forward from the standard 98.


Jim Kobe
10841 Oxborough Ave So
Bloomington MN 55437
952.884.6031
Professional member American Custom Gunmakers Guild

 
Posts: 5521 | Location: Minnesota | Registered: 10 July 2002Reply With Quote
One of Us
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by JBrown:
Uhmmm, no. There are ways to do what you want to do, but welding and remachining the cocking cam is NASA level stuff.


I wouldn't want to trust NASA doing it... at least not the NASA guys around here. dancing

Jason is correct in one aspect, the price you would pay to have it done would make you think it is for NASA.

Buy a replacement bolt, have the headspace checked.


Nathaniel Myers
Myers Arms LLC
nathaniel@myersarms.com
www.myersarms.com
Follow us on Instagram and YouTube

I buy Mauser actions, parts, micrometers, tools, calipers, etc. Specifically looking for pre-WWII Mauser tools.
 
Posts: 1498 | Location: Ohio | Registered: 06 June 2010Reply With Quote
One of Us
posted Hide Post
All you need to do is cut the top of the cp like Kobe suggested.
Don
 
Posts: 1085 | Location: Detroit MI | Registered: 28 March 2006Reply With Quote
one of us
Picture of ramrod340
posted Hide Post
If you would one a Dakota Style 3 position zlr did one for me. It came out perfect. I'll look for a couple pictures.


As usual just my $.02
Paul K
 
Posts: 12881 | Location: Mexico, MO | Registered: 02 April 2001Reply With Quote
One of Us
Picture of Rick R
posted Hide Post
Thanks for the input guys, I've decided to take Mr. Kobe's advise as to how it should be done, except I'm not going to be the one doing it. Smiler
Remember, a man's gotta know his limitations.
 
Posts: 1912 | Location: Charleston, WV, USA | Registered: 10 January 2003Reply With Quote
  Powered by Social Strata  
 


Copyright December 1997-2023 Accuratereloading.com


Visit our on-line store for AR Memorabilia