Speed Lock bolts and flag safties

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31 January 2014, 21:03

Rick R

Speed Lock bolts and flag safties

I have a Whitworth in .375 that the original owner did some stock work on and stuck a Lyman receiver sight on. I love the rifle, hate the sliding safety.

I would like to convert it over to a military flag safety but the Whitworth bolt is apparently a speed lock variant and the bolt body / cocking piece are different than a real Mauser. Does anyone have any advise how to proceed with this modification? I take it that the top of the speed lock cocking piece can be cut to allow the military style safety to work but I'm leery of taking a hacksaw/Dremel/arc welder to the part. Any guidance would be appreciated.

31 January 2014, 21:14

Jim Kobe

If it has the speedlock you will probably need a new old style cocking piece.

01 February 2014, 07:27

Rick R

Jim,
I've tried an original military cocking piece and it doesn't rest properly on the end of the bolt. You have to push it about .15" against the firing pin spring to close the bolt, somewhat like an Enfield.

The cam section of the bolt is cut entirely differently from the Santa Barbara Mauser you put the side swing safety on for me. I almost think that I need someone to weld up and re-contour the cam section to allow the use of a standard cocking piece.

This photo has the bolt from my 1939 Husqvarna on the left and the Whitworth with military shroud and cocking piece on the right:

Feel like a project?

01 February 2014, 09:02

JBrown

quote:
Originally posted by Rick R:
I almost think that I need someone to weld up and re-contour the cam section to allow the use of a standard cocking piece.

Uhmmm, no. There are ways to do what you want to do, but welding and remachining the cocking cam is NASA level stuff.

Jason

"You're not hard-core, unless you live hard-core."
_______________________

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-Jason Brown

01 February 2014, 16:13

farbedo

Rick,

The easiest thing may be to get a new bolt. Sarco has Mark X magnum bolts for $95 for the stripped bolt. It should have similar bolt handle and fit your stock. The cocking cam is standard Mauser and will take the military parts (may need fitting). I have used a couple on 375 Ruger projects. Easier than reworking a military bolt. Here is the link: http://www.e-sarcoinc.com/mk10...numboltstripped.aspx

The only catch is headspace, but you may get lucky. Definitely make sure the headspace is good if you take my suggestion. Safety first.

Jeremy

01 February 2014, 18:17

Jim Kobe

You definitely have the "speedlock" version. In order to fit one of my conversions to that action, the cocking piece needs to be ground back on the top surface the amount the cocking piece sits ead of the standard. Fairly simple procedure with the correct equipment. The difference between the two is the amount the cocking piece sits further forward from the standard 98.

04 February 2014, 06:45

Fal Grunt

quote:
Originally posted by JBrown:
Uhmmm, no. There are ways to do what you want to do, but welding and remachining the cocking cam is NASA level stuff.

I wouldn't want to trust NASA doing it... at least not the NASA guys around here.

Jason is correct in one aspect, the price you would pay to have it done would make you think it is for NASA.

Buy a replacement bolt, have the headspace checked.

Nathaniel Myers
Myers Arms LLC
nathaniel@myersarms.com
www.myersarms.com
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I buy Mauser actions, parts, micrometers, tools, calipers, etc. Specifically looking for pre-WWII Mauser tools.

07 February 2014, 02:54

Don Markey

All you need to do is cut the top of the cp like Kobe suggested.
Don

07 February 2014, 03:21

ramrod340

If you would one a Dakota Style 3 position zlr did one for me. It came out perfect. I'll look for a couple pictures.

07 February 2014, 06:07

Rick R

Thanks for the input guys, I've decided to take Mr. Kobe's advise as to how it should be done, except I'm not going to be the one doing it.

Remember, a man's gotta know his limitations.