I have a stock for my daughter's rifle that I need to cut down for her LOP and then have a thin(.5") Decellerator pad ground to fit.

I can cut the stock but I'm not set up to grind the pad...

I am wondering(oh no!) if I were to chop off the stock myself could I send the recoil pad and the chunk of wood that took off to a gunsmith and have him grind the pad to match the contour of the removed chunk?

This is for a working rifle, not a show piece, so it doesn't matter if the fit is perfect. I just want something that works and I would like to avoid shipping the entire stock out(I've had bad luck lately......).

Any gunsmiths want to undertake such a project?

It'f for this little hunting fool:

I am sure it can be done.

I love the way you are bringing up your daughter!

Hopefully she will grow up to be a wonderful person, far away from the stupidity of some of our younger generation.

Hats off to you my friend!

why not send the stock out to have the pad fitted?

quote:

Originally posted by Saeed:

I love the way you are bringing up your daughter!

Thank you Saeed. That means a lot to me. I am blessed to have a daughter who loves to get out hunting and shooting.

quote:

Originally posted by z1r:
why not send the stock out to have the pad fitted?

This half baked plan was cooked up when I was looking to have this rifle’s expensive Brown Precision stock shortened.

Fed ex lost this rifle for two months on its trip up here. The carriers contract out to local cargo airlines so there are a lot of hands that the packages pass through. Fed ex basically said “sometimes things get lost...”

And now one of the cargo airlines went under and a smaller outfit has taken over and there are some growing pains. It doesn’t inspire confidence....

I actually have a wooden stock that will fit her better for the time being(it has a very tight grip-perfect for her small hands and a Montecarlo cheekpiece which suits her thin face). So I figured that if I mail out the piece I cut off the stock, and it gets lost I’ve only lost a scrap of wood, but I still have the stock.

Would you be willing to accept a job like this?

I show how to grind a pad without a disk grinder and I have the plan and pictures in a file. If you have a 3/8 in. drill motor then buy a 4 or 5 in. sanding disk it is easy. This is the method we used in our shop. Rough out the pad on the stock with a bench grinder after you tape the stock to be able to see and do not try to finish a close fit at this time.

Send me an email address and I will send an attachment showing how this process works. PM me ,

Les

Keep drill motor firm against the body to control it's travel. Keep moving the disk with the legs and not the arms. It is easy if you remember to use the body and not the arms to grind the pad. If you stop it will grind thru the masking tape. If you make a vacuum set up and make up a trap placed at the end of the stock a couple of inches away you can catch 95% of the rubber dust.

Since you cut the stock off and your sending the cut off butt section, the stock itself will be smaller than the piece your sending, grinding it to fit a stock of different size? Must be some real magicians around here..

I suggest you stick a pad on your cut off stock and tape the wood with a couple of layers of tape and carefully grind it yourself to close and finish it with a sanding block, and some 60 and 100 wet or dry, and one layer of tape..That is easier than one might think, just time consuming. take long even strokes with the sanding block dipped in thin finish or whatever.

Your plan is more like eating a steak before you kill the cow, I suppose it could be done but Id like to sell tickets to the event!

Ray, sometimes you make things more difficult than they need to be.


My idea is that if the shortened stock has been scribed onto the backing plate of the pad and the gunsmith has the cutoff section of the butt in hand he can grind to the scribe line and use the cut off section to get the heel and toe angles correct.

And I have done a 1" decellerator pad by hand in the past using an 8" autobody type sanding block. It came out perfectly but it was a long, long process. I didn't mind that sort of thing when I was a young batchlor....

Part of my issue is that all of my tools are in storage in Wyominmg. If I had my sanding blocks, stockmakers vice, drill and grinder here(and a decent place to make a mess) I would already have it done....

Thank you to Les and the other smith who reached out to assist me on this. I do apperciate the knowledge on this forum!

Maybe you should look for a gunsmith/stockmaker who is equipped with something like this: https://www.brownells.com/guns...g-jig-prod44670.aspx

JB,
Sorry I complicated your post..didn't mean to..

If you're hard up for a method or person to do this, would a slip on pad work? At least for the interim, you could shorten the stock and slip a Pachmayr pad on. It's not the prettiest, but I'd argue a slip on pad looks a lot better than a poorly-fitted screw on pad, you know? You could always revisit the issue later when you have more time/tools/space.

If you don’t want to, or don’t have the means to grind it yourself, here’s how I can do it for you:

Get a pad of the right size; remember, many pads have a metal reinforcement molded into the pad, so make sure the pad you want to use metal reinforcement is smaller than the butt of the firearm. This can be particularly a problem when a stock is cut short as the butt gets pretty small. Screw the un-ground pad to the stock, making sure the end of the pad at the heel is close but just slightly overhanging the stock. Using a scribe, trace the butt by scratching an outline of the butt onto the pad. Remove the pad, and use a piece of wire, like a paper clip and bend it to duplicate the angle at the toe of the stock making a template. Send the pad and the wire template to me and I’ll grind it for you. It will be a very, very close fit. I’ll do it for free.

I mounted a motor on a bench with a grinding disc on the shaft. Using a B-Square pat mounting jig one uses a framing square or equivalent to adjust to the heel + comb. When set, just grind to the line. Finish off with fine sandpaper. Your angles will be correct even if the stock was shortened 1st.

I didn't read John's post above before I posted . A very generous offer from a gentleman. Most folks don't get tooled up unless they are doing it for business as I was. I would take him up on his offer. Very kind, John.

quote:

Originally posted by Atkinson:
Since you cut the stock off and your sending the cut off butt section, the stock itself will be smaller than the piece your sending, grinding it to fit a stock of different size? Must be some real magicians around here..

I suggest you stick a pad on your cut off stock and tape the wood with a couple of layers of tape and carefully grind it yourself to close and finish it with a sanding block, and some 60 and 100 wet or dry, and one layer of tape..That is easier than one might think, just time consuming. take long even strokes with the sanding block dipped in thin finish or whatever.

Your plan is more like eating a steak before you kill the cow, I suppose it could be done but Id like to sell tickets to the event!

The part of the stock where the cut was made WILL be of the correct size, no? It will [or should be] be correct on either side of the saw cut.

no. the saw blade plus the kerf is a real dimension, thickness. you are taking that thickness out of a slope.

Similar to the point being made about cutting a stock and grinding a recoil pad to fit off stock using the piece cut from the stock as a pattern, you cannot increase the length of pull by inserting a spacer between stock and using the same recoil pad, OR CAN YOU???

My recent experience shows you can.

My two sons and I have Turkish made Akkar semi gas operated auto shotguns which are basically a copy of the Remington gas semi auto shotguns. Unfortunately with the Akkar guns is the length of pull is too short for taller long arm shooters although they do come with a set of small thin spacers that fit between the stock and action to alter drop and cast off but do little for LOP. Checking the Akkar website I noticed there is an accessory stock spacer that fits between the hollow plastic stock butt and the factory recoil pad. The recoil pad has a moulded shoulder that seats into the hollow stock providing positive location of the pad and supports the side walls of the stock. The spacer has this same shoulder to locate into the stock butt and then is sloped down on the top of the recoil pad side with a recess to accept the original pad maintaining the same bottom angle of the stock but scalloped down at the top (see photo below). Two longer screws are supplied with the spacer to attach it and the pad to the stock.

I checked with my local hunting and fishing franchise store who are the Akkar importers to see if they had any of the spacers available or could get them. Never had any in stock in the country but could contact the Turkish factory to see if available, asked how much would I be prepared to pay for one and how many would I take? Said I wanted three and even though they would be a cheap made moulding would pay $30 or so to get the proper factory spacer. All this about three weeks before the Covid thing blew up. About 10 days later got a phone call from the shop, good news, they had three spacers for me, second good news, the factory did not charge for them therefore the shop would supply them to me free of charge. A couple of minutes to fit the spacers to our guns and the lines look good with the gun coming to the shoulder with good sight picture and nice increased LOP.


Wow, in a world of more often than not poor or no customer service how do you beat that

Note the scallop at the top of the spacer to allow the factory recoil pat to be used with the 15mm spacer.

I'm sure that some of the purists here will have something neagtive to say about that system, but I sure like it better than the system that Ruger uses where the toe angle of the stock just runs parallel to the heal angle.

a cheap angle grinder and a flap disk sanding pad.. $25 from HF. it won't be a guild level install, but it would allow you you to get close enough

quote:

Originally posted by jeffeosso:
a cheap angle grinder and a flap disk sanding pad.. $25 from HF. it won't be a guild level install, but it would allow you you to get close enough

I’ve installed pads before. If I lived somewhere within driving distance to a HF(and everything else that entails) I would probably already have this finished.