My Mauser is now "in the white", and I'd consider parkerizing it, but I want more info on this subject first.
How durable is it?
How long does it last?
What colors is it available in?
Does it stop rust well?
Are you pleased with it?
What don't you like about it?

Thanks. ~~~Suluuq

I have found parkerizing to be durable, hold oil well, it is usually gray to black in color, but sometimes green, depending on the methods and materials used, it is a good rust preventive, the U.S. military used it for a great number of years.

I have always liked it on the military guns, but the commercial stuff doesn't look like the military stuff, and I have not been satisfied with it...It may have to do with the metal prep....

You can parkerize black and it looks good. My 458 lott vz 24 is parkerized and looks nice.

Rusty Gun--

You ever see the pictures of Marines going ashore in the Pacific? How about D-Day? That's salt water and the rifles were Parkerized.

Nuff said?

Rusty Gunn

Judging by your screen name you certainly could use some parkerizing.

The term parkerizing was taken from a commercial supplier who had the manufactoring rights years ago. Actually this is a phosphate process using either zinc or manganese.

The manganese solution is used by most gunsmiths, it produces a charcoal grey color but will vary with the type of steel, surface prepartion and brand of chemicals used by your gunsmith.

Years back there was much debate about how the differant shades of green was obtained on a lot of military rifles. It has since been determined that parkerizing will turn green when certain oils or greases are left on the weapon for long periods of time such as cosmoline on the Springfield 03's and M1 Garrands. It is a known fact that if you want to reproduce that military olive green color, just soak the newly parkerized metal with Havoline 30W oil and let it dry for a few weeks.

Parkerizing is very rust resistant and durable, just ask Uncle Sam.

Some gunsmiths are using zinc based parkerizing for an undercoat for spray on baked finishes such as teflon. It provides a good water proofing and the spray on finishes really adhere to it. The Manganese base finish gives the best appearance and wear resistance when used by it self.

If you want a Jet Black parkerized finish have your gunsmith to parkerize as usuall then run the gun through the hot blue tanks.

One caveat, make sure your gunsmith understands the importance of plugging the bore when doing this process as it deeply etches the metal and will ruin a bore or chamber.

Does a gun have to be sandblasted to parkerize? Or is bead blasting or a a 300 grit hand polish adequate? I have been told that it won't work properly unless the surface is really rough -- I really like the look, but want something smooth. Matte bluing just isn't tough enough.

Todd

Thanks for the responces, as it really helps me make a decision, of which I'll do the parkerizing.
I tend to think black would look better, so I'll mention this to my gunsmith.
Just as Todd asks, does it need sand blasting first? I had it in my mind to request sand blasting before hand, so I'd like to know.
So far I've hand sanded the barrelled action first with 220 grit, followed by 320. Should I do 400 as well, or perhaps it won't make a difference with sand blasting? Thanks. ~~~Suluuq

Rusty Gunn,

Have you ever handled a gun with a sand blasted surface? The only ones I've handled are the cheap model Rem 870's, and you could lose skin to that barrel. I wish someone would say that you can parkerize a smooth surface like you have already prepared . If you could have parkerized AND smooth, I would have them all done that way.

Good luck,
Todd

Terry,

Very nice finish -- it sure does look smooth. Who did you have do it, and if you don't mind my asking, how much?

Thanks,
Todd

I just got my kids gun back today from being Parkerized,and it cost for a bolt gun $70.00
and for the my 1911 it is going to run about $45.00.I had it done by a ol'boy out of Bastrop Tx. and it took him 8 days to do it. I think that is fast the last one I had done was took 3 weeks and it cost $125.00 and I was not happy with it.It had a 2 tone look to it the barrel and brake where light gray and the action and bottom metal where very dark gray. the action and barrel where togather at the time of the parkerizing I guess,I was told it was I have no idea how it came out 2 tone.

Hope this helped

Doc

I agree Remington's metal is way too rough. I don't know what they are blasting with but it's got to be extremely course.

You can bead blast as a metal prep for parkerizing but it is not recomended. Sand blasting is recomended for better adhesion. I get pleasing results with a very fine grit sometimes refered to as sugar sand. Very hard metal like some heat treated receivers require a medium grit sand at higher air pressure.

Doc, it's a small world, my son lives in Bastrop.