To elaborate on Chic's answer, it is done to achieve full (or at least equal) contact between the rear surface of each locking lug and it's respective recess in the receiver. If the lugs don't bear evenly, recoil can cause the bolt to flex, impairing accuracy.
Quote: What is this tool lapping? Am I missing something?
Thanks,
-Steve
That tool is putting pressure on the bolt, holding it rearward and insuring contact of the lugs while lapping. Most of us do this operation on the action w/o barrel. Just make a spring loaded tooling aid that screws into the front of the action. Lapping the lugs while the barrel is in place might lead to headspace problems, later. Just an opinion.
Posts: 275 | Location: NW USA | Registered: 27 May 2001
If your rechambering or rebarrelling you lap lugs first. On my wildcats I do that. as well as add to safety lug surfaces to have them bear along with bolt lugs, for greatest possible strength.Ed.
So then I assume that the wire that was going through the flash hole is trimmed off a some length. I wouldn't think that you'd want it to much beyond the washers. Or am I missing something else. Probably am .
-Steve
Posts: 2781 | Location: Hillsboro, Or-Y-Gun (Oregon), U.S.A. | Registered: 22 June 2000
I just use a cut off case with stiff spring inside against bolt face and held in with piece of threaded barrel with plug in it.Lube case, have firing pin and shroud off of bolt.IE bolt turns freely, not fighting firing pin spring. I use valve grinding compound if there is a lot of difference.IE on isn't touching.After they bear the same, then polish with fine body sanding compound.If one is bearing much more than other use compound on it first until there is a show of contact against other.Then use finish on both.Patience is the word.Ed.
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