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Lapping Bolt Lugs

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10 January 2004, 15:23
Africa in 03
Lapping Bolt Lugs
What does this accomplish? Allowing the bolt to slide easier?

Thanks
10 January 2004, 15:35
Customstox
The purpose of lapping lugs is to get 100 % contact with each lug. Often it is not the case to start with.
10 January 2004, 17:01
Glen71
To elaborate on Chic's answer, it is done to achieve full (or at least equal) contact between the rear surface of each locking lug and it's respective recess in the receiver. If the lugs don't bear evenly, recoil can cause the bolt to flex, impairing accuracy.
10 January 2004, 19:08
Steve
Chic and Glen's description is what I thought lug lapping was all about.

A buddy just sent me this link today. What is this tool lapping? Am I missing something?

Thanks,

-Steve

P.S. Sorry if I'm shanghai-ing this thread. It's just a bit of cooincidence that got me wondering.
11 January 2004, 01:55
Jay, Idaho
Quote:

What is this tool lapping? Am I missing something?

Thanks,

-Steve



That tool is putting pressure on the bolt, holding it rearward and insuring contact of the lugs while lapping. Most of us do this operation on the action w/o barrel. Just make a spring loaded tooling aid that screws into the front of the action. Lapping the lugs while the barrel is in place might lead to headspace problems, later. Just an opinion.
11 January 2004, 05:09
Africa in 03
Thanks for the responses and that link also helped.

Thanks,

Robert
11 January 2004, 06:26
Grandpasez
If your rechambering or rebarrelling you lap lugs first.
On my wildcats I do that. as well as add to safety lug surfaces to have them bear along with bolt lugs, for greatest possible strength.Ed.
11 January 2004, 07:43
vapodog
What grit and compounds do folks mostly use for this purpose?
11 January 2004, 08:37
Steve
So then I assume that the wire that was going through the flash hole is trimmed off a some length. I wouldn't think that you'd want it to much beyond the washers. Or am I missing something else. Probably am .

-Steve
11 January 2004, 09:26
Grandpasez
I just use a cut off case with stiff spring inside against bolt face and held in with piece of threaded barrel with plug in it.Lube case, have firing pin and shroud off of bolt.IE bolt turns freely, not fighting firing pin spring.
I use valve grinding compound if there is a lot of difference.IE on isn't touching.After they bear the same,
then polish with fine body sanding compound.If one is bearing much more than other use compound on it first until
there is a show of contact against other.Then use finish on both.Patience is the word.Ed.