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ARRRGGGGHHHH .....

Loaded the AVT on the trailer to take it in for its first service and NO lights. Signals on the plug from the Cherokee are good. Can't seem to get a decent VOM reading on the ground on the trailer plug to either side of the position lights. Like the ground is completely shot even though it appears that it carried through the installation on wire rather than using the frame of the trailer.

I am terribly tempted to pull the entire lighting installation and replace it with submersible LED units.

Anyone use these? Is the installation difficult? Do they give fewer problems than light bulbs?

Appreciate any experience here.

Thanks,


Mike

--------------
DRSS, Womper's Club, NRA Life Member/Charter Member NRA Golden Eagles ...
Knifemaker, http://www.mstarling.com
 
Posts: 6199 | Location: Charleston, WV | Registered: 31 August 2002Reply With Quote
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Sounds like a ground problem.
 
Posts: 1289 | Location: San Angelo,Tx | Registered: 22 August 2003Reply With Quote
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Picture of JBoutfishn
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99.99999% of trailer light problems are caused by a screwed up ground connection. Vehicle ground and trailer ground should be bolted to the frame of each vehicle. I solder the ground wire to a clip which is placed between two star lock washers and bolted to the frame. Be sure the pig tails on the connectors are in good shape.

LED's need the same ground system.


Jim "Bwana Umfundi"
NRA



 
Posts: 3014 | Location: State Of Jefferson | Registered: 27 March 2002Reply With Quote
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Picture of Mark
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I'd suggest buying one of those trailer light testers:



They cost less than $5 and save a lot of hair pulling!


for every hour in front of the computer you should have 3 hours outside
 
Posts: 7763 | Location: Between 2 rivers, Middle USA | Registered: 19 August 2000Reply With Quote
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Picture of jb
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here in the land of 10'000 lakes,trailer light repair is an annual chore.led lights will be going on next time I replace the whole set,which has been every few years.the only problem is the purchase price,typically several times the cost of standard bulb light sets.


******************************************************************
SI VIS PACEM PARA BELLUM
***********



 
Posts: 2937 | Location: minnesota | Registered: 26 December 2002Reply With Quote
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After you've established a good ground get some dielectric grease (sp) squeeze it into the cable ends and as far up the wires as you can. I do this when I set it up the first time as I'm crimping on the electrical ends. The grease expells water and saves all kinds of hassels.

I feel your pain

the chef
 
Posts: 2763 | Registered: 11 March 2004Reply With Quote
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Drive it around the block and get the rust off of the ball and the hitch.
LED are the way to go! I put them all the way around on my F250. They look great and you never will need to replace them. Best of all, and most important for brake lights, they come on quicker so those behind you see your brake lights come on quicker!
Robert


Robert

If we can prevent the government from wasting the labors of the people, under the pretense of taking care of them, they must become happy. Thomas Jefferson, 1802
 
Posts: 1207 | Location: Tomball or Rocksprings with Namibia on my mind! | Registered: 29 March 2008Reply With Quote
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Picture of jeffeosso
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28 bucks at wallyworld for a set of lights... 30 minute install... not worth the time I spent last week trying to trouble shoot the previous lights.. all my wiring runs through PVC, and it wook no time to rewire...

used an angle grinder to prepare all surfaces, ground at hitch and behind each lights, intstalled, tested, and then SPRAY painted over everything... and next year, when it stops working, i'll take the lights off, and the ground at the hitch, hit it with an angle grinder againl put back together, and paint over.. 20mins..

and while you are doing it, PACK YOUR BEARINGS


#dumptrump

opinions vary band of bubbas and STC hunting Club

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Posts: 38462 | Location: Conroe, TX | Registered: 01 June 2002Reply With Quote
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