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rebuilding carbs - ultrasound/ultrasonic clear
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when on sale, buy yourself the LUXURY of the harbor freight 6Ll cleaner -- and buy the simplegreen Dplus cleaner - the d+ won't stain your carbs

and a couple stainless tea balls off amazon

tear the carb down, pull the jets and emulsion tube out, put the small parts in the tea balls

run at 20 min, 40c, twice - that's it, put it back together, looks new -- just remember how you spaced the idle jet

zero hassle, no nasty chemicals -- just run for 40 mins, then drain the cleaner back into the gallon bottle - opps, i didn't mention that, 1 gallon of cleaner is perfect for the 6l cleaner

i have both flavors of chemdip - nah, i am good

results are a clean carb, with clean passages, with a nil rating cleaner --

DO NOT use with the original nasty chemical chemdip - that would be terrible, and the new stuff is a protein - there's weird things that happen with an amino and ultrasound --

j


opinions vary band of bubbas and STC hunting Club

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Posts: 42303 | Location: Conroe, TX | Registered: 01 June 2002Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I see quite a few online mechanics use Pine-Sol as their cleaning medium. Often wondered if this actually works as well as they say.


Shoot Safe,
Mike

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Posts: 1031 | Location: Middle Georgia | Registered: 06 February 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I have a big RCBS cleaner that I use for everything. For greasy, oily dirt I use diluted Zep purple ( weak base). It works great on aluminum parts and carbs come out looking like new. Zep citrus is a weak acid and it really makes brass parts look good. You just have to experiment a bit and don't leave parts soaking too long. I find that 20-30 min. is usually long enough for most things. Note that either of these will ruin some paints and the acid base cleaners will attack some blued surfaces.

C.G.B.
 
Posts: 1134 | Registered: 25 January 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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