Hey fellas I'm looking into getting my first dog and am considering adoption. I work full time 15 minutes from home and just don't think I have the time to raise a puppy, but I'm thinking a young dog already housebroken and somewhat trained may be a better option.

I hunt waterfowl and upland birds so *if* he can hunt, I'd love a dog that can retrieve and ideally point too. Nothing wrong with just having a dog for companionship though.

I'm visiting this fella on Saturday- a 1 year 9 month old purebred yellow lab. He's been in a foster home for a couple of weeks and I've been told he's up for adoption because his original owners became allergic to him. He's got his shots, has a clean bill of health from the vet, been neutered, and is microchipped.



What specific things should I try to look into? Have any of you adopted a dog like this?
Any thoughts or advice is much appreciated.

Thanks!
-Evan

I'm sure he'll work out very well for you, and with some work, may very well make that hunting dog (except for the pointing, cause labs flush (except for pointing labs))

If I were adopting, I'd be mainly worrying about pre-existing behavioral problems like separation anxiety and the like. Other than that, if he's in good health, enjoy.

Don't go to visit ....most likely to come with a new best friend!!

Adoption/rescue dogs are a good option...you will enjoy!!

I frequently take in rescue dogs and try to place them - Goldens and not Labradors, though I have a couple of Labradors as well. I end up with the old ones because no one will take them.

The advice about pre-existing behavioral issues is good. Can you take him for a week on a trial basis?

Retrievers are smart, athletic dogs. If you don't give them a job, they will find one and you won't like the results. But they are some of the best dogs you can have, too. Plan on obedience class or two, get some toys with hide-a-treat to keep him busy, and crate-train him so you can leave him in the house when you need to. He's still a young dog, so he'll probably be pretty lively.

He probably won't point, almost certainly will retrieve (try him with a tennis ball - if he'll go get it but not return, you can always teach him to come).

Looks like a very nice dog! I'd take him in a heartbeat if he were a rescue here.

Call the former owner and tell him what your intentions are.

Thanks all for the advice! Much appreciated.

Let's consider the pointer comment "wishful thinking." If I get him I'm planning on training him for waterfowl first and then see how he does in the field with upland birds. I have only hunted with flushing dogs once so both of us will take some adjusting but that's okay. The foster mom says he loves water, fetching and retrieve, and chasing a laser pointer so he sounds promising.

I'll certainly ask regarding behavioral issues. She said he is very friendly and sociable, but they have 14 foster dogs there so he is busy all day. When we spoke I was very honest with her regarding myself and my intentions and she is confident he'll be a good fit but we will see. I don't know if we can do a trial period but I like that idea.

It may be difficult not to bring him home this weekend but the adoption agency requires a home inspection first so I'll have to wait 'til next week anyways.

I must look like an animal abuser or something because I'm 0/2 in the dog adoption department. If the dog's foster parent asks you "What your goals are for the dog?" don't answer "companion" because that isn't the correct answer.
With a little socialization into your family I'm sure this dog will turn out great.

I'd ask to see the pedigree on this dog. Look the papers over closely to see if there is any indication of gun dog or field trials in his background. I'm on my fourth Lab right now and they are wonderful dogs. All my dogs have been from strong field trial lines and all do point at times. When they do, I know they're looking at a pheasant tha's right in front of their nose.

No experience with labs, but I currently have a dog I adopted about a year ago from a shelter.

First off, it's an absolutely great idea to adopt as there are tons of dogs that need homes. Gives you a warm fuzzy feeling knowing you saved a dogs life.

I'm not an expert, but this is what I learned when I went to adopt a dog based upon what I read and what I experienced.

First, if you go to the shelter, it will be chaotic. Lots of barking, wimpering, jumping, and sacred dogs. You probably wont experience this at a foster home, but you may still encounter a bunch of dogs.

Now, what I read was that you want to see if the dog will willing come up to you. The dog should be curious about you and possibly seek your affection. Doesn't have to follow you around, but should greet you with a wagging tail and come over for scratch behind the ears. A dog that avoids looking at you, stays away from you, or cowers when you try to pet it may be signs of deeper problems.

You can also ask here if the dog is housebroken and/or had any accidents inside. Dogs don't like the use the bathroom where they sleep, so if the dog hasn't had any accidents inside, it is probably house broken.

You should try and get the dog alone - take it on a walk or something. Dogs are pack animals, so you want to see how he is away from his current pack and in your pack. Should still be getting the friendly dog treatment; doesn't growl when you pull the leash, try to stop walking, etc.

Basically, think of a typical friendly lab. You want the dog to be like that.

When you bring the dog home, it will probably take about a month for the dog to adjust to your home and lifestyle. For example, my dog had no interest in dog treats for the first few weeks we had her, now she runs into the kitchen anytime someone goes in there in hopes of getting a treat. She also had some pretty bad separation anxiety (she was in the pound for 3 months) and would howl anytime we left her. She also shook anytime she would go in the car. Once she figured out we were not going to leave her and that we always came home, she calmed down, stopped howling when we left and shaking in the car. The important things like being friendly and going the bathroom outside remained consistent and did not change.

Anyway, that is my limited experience, but it seems fairly consistent when I talked to other people who adopted dogs. I would say this as my final thought, there are lots of dogs in need of a home. Do not adopt a dog because you feel sorry for it; if you have any off feeling about the dog, do not adopt the dog. Be patient in searching for a dog and when you find one that acts like a normal dog and you like him/her, bring the dog home.

What the foster mom says is promising. Labman is right about pedigree and buying a dog (I have both an FC (field champion) and a MH (Master Hunter), both Labradors, so I have an idea what he is talking about. However, with rescue you end up with the dog that is there, not the dog you would want to go out and shop for.

Along with my competition dogs, I do retriever rescue, as I said. The truth is, most of us wouldn't know how to bring a field trial dog to his potential, and for most people, a companion is 95% of a dog's job anyway. On the average, a rescue Labrador retriever will do all the hunting work you will need, regardless of pedigree. Sure, there are a few that won't retrieve and won't hunt, but those are fairly rare with Labardors. And there is little doubt a field-bred dog will have a far better chance of succeeding as a super hunting dog, but usually you have to pay for them.

Sevens' comment about taking some time to adjust after adoption is a very good comment. With a rescue dog coming into my pack at home, it usually takes about 2 weeks for the rest of the dogs to even admit the new one is alive. After a month, they are part of the pack have have their own spot to lay down in the living room. So do expect some time to adjust.

Good luck!

Thanks again all for the tips and advice. Today's visit went very well and I am picking Buck up on Tuesday for a weeklong trial period.



We met at a Petsmart and he was excited but still quiet and relatively collected despite all of the other people and dogs around. He was very friendly with everyone and behaved well. He is not very big- about 50 lbs, but that's okay too. Foster mom says his house behavior could use work but he hasn't chewed any of her stuff up and is fine in his crate. I'm looking forward to bringing him home!

Congratulations, Evan. I trust and hope it will be a match made forever.

Thanks Chuck. He's been great so far.

Have you've fired a shotgun from a distance around your dog like 50 yard's or so?

That is an extremely attentive look he is giving you - I read that as a very good sign. No appearance of avoidance,no appearance of nervousness. I think you have a good dog. A lot to read into a picture, granted, but he is really interested and paying attention to you, Evan.

Norseman has a good comment. If you do keep him, give it another two weeks to a month. Start with a cap gun at the dinner bowl, .22 at 50 yards, 20 ga at a hundred moving to 75 to 50 to 20, all the while closely watching his reaction. If you have any issues or want a little more specifics, drop me a pm. Unloading a 12 ga over a dogs head in the duck blind without preparing him for the experience is a great way to make a dog gun shy.

That is a good looking boy!

Do NOT start with a cap gun at the dinner bowl!!!!!! This is a very common mistake for novice.

The further away the better, work your way in and have the dog on lead by collar ready to be release by a friend at the sound of gunshot and at the same time you must be clapping your hands in a down position facing the dog the entire time walking backwards.

By the way, I suggest you wait until the dog becomes attached to you.

Don't start with a cap gun at the dinner bowl? Novice?

Interesting.

FC regards

I appreciate the suggestions!

No gun training yet. His previous family didn't hunt him either. It will be another month or two before all of the snow is melted and fields are dried out so that may be when I start. I've checked out training videos on Youtube and one idea is to toss his bumper and fire the gun then so he associates fetching something with the sound. No matter what it's something I want to ease him into and make certain he's comfortable with gunfire before I take him afield.

He is very focused on ME and started coming to his new name within a couple of hours. Sits, lays down, shakes, walks on a leash really well, but we've got to work on staying put. He loves fetching tennis balls and a bumper and brings it back to me maybe 90% of the time. He has only barked when I left him leashed up outside, and then it's just yip or two and he calms down. No accidents in the house (yet). He's better than I expected- so far so good!

dr_dog_guy,

Don't start with a cap gun at the dinner bowl? Novice?

What "Interesting?

What are you trying to say in print?

And what is "FC regards"?

I'm saying that you don't know what you are talking about.

FC is a field champion. How many have you raised.

This was a nice thread talking about saving a rescue dog. Internet advice is worth what you pay for it, as you've so aptly proved. Lets leave it alone.

dr dog guy,

you seem's to not know what your talking about, you could've damn near wreck a rescue dog by suggesting firing off a cap gun at dinner bowl!

Then you say oh FC is a field champion. How many have you raised? It's appear's that FC has nothing to do rescue dogs, doesn't it Chuck? Pull your head out of your ass man!!!!!!!
Last thing you want to do is make a gun shy dog out of a rescue.

By the way Chucky, leave it alone.

So the more than 25 less than 50 rescue dogs I've rehomed in the last 15 or 20 years clearly means nothing? In addition to running breeding, raising, and competing with both sensitive and highpowered competition dogs? You, my friend, are the novice, with his head firmly planted, and with a cmbatitive attitide (=troll). And, you are now on ignore, so feel free to contribute if you wish.

I guess it clearly means nothing and you have answered your question.

I make a side living to re-trained gun shy dogs because the owner's got bad or ill-formed advice and suggestions off of novices and of course the internet!

I've had Buck for just over a month now and he is learning very quickly. When we play fetch he will automatically sit down and wait for me to say "go" before he takes off and now drops whatever he retrieves at my feet before sitting down again. I've introduced some 2x4 blocks to simulate gunshots (first at meal time, then I started clapping them before throwing his ball) and he hardly notices them anymore. He gets very excited when I blow on a duck or goose call too.



I took him out to a lake for the first time this past weekend and he went straight for the water as soon as he saw it. Getting him to actually swim out to fetch a stick took more encouragement but he loved it. Most of the water was still frozen but he didn't seem to care.



His weaknesses are counter surfing and getting into the garbage. A bungee cord over the can lid has stopped the trash robber cold but he will still seek out anything that smells good on the counter, even tupperware containers. Any suggestions for helping to curb that behavior?

Good move Evan.

Way to go Evan, looks like a perfect match!

Hope you have many good years ahead with your new buddy!!

Right on! One step at a time.

Handsome dog!

quote:

Originally posted by Evan K.:

His weaknesses are counter surfing and getting into the garbage. A bungee cord over the can lid has stopped the trash robber cold but he will still seek out anything that smells good on the counter, even tupperware containers. Any suggestions for helping to curb that behavior?

I think all dogs instictively "counter surf" but some are just too short to do it effeciently. I just gave up with my Weimaranar. I get the goodies off the counter and no problems.

I have heard of a trick where you get some simple mouse traps and set a few on the counter - then carfully cover them with a sheet newspaper. Makes lots of noise when he gets up there but the newspaper stops him from actually getting snapped.

quote:

Originally posted by Riodot:

quote:

Originally posted by Evan K.:

His weaknesses are counter surfing and getting into the garbage. A bungee cord over the can lid has stopped the trash robber cold but he will still seek out anything that smells good on the counter, even tupperware containers. Any suggestions for helping to curb that behavior?

I think all dogs instictively "counter surf" but some are just too short to do it effeciently. I just gave up with my Weimaranar. I get the goodies off the counter and no problems.

I have heard of a trick where you get some simple mouse traps and set a few on the counter - then carfully cover them with a sheet newspaper. Makes lots of noise when he gets up there but the newspaper stops him from actually getting snapped.

Thanks for that suggestion- I might just have to try it. I'm stringent about keeping food off the counters but Buck will take anything food-related.

I started laying baking sheets/racks along the counter edge while I'm at work so if he decides to hop up and take a look he will knock it all onto the floor and make a bunch of noise- but they have kept him off the counter so far. However if you remove them and he thinks we are distracted (which he is very keen on), he'll still go for it.

You are livf-long companions at this point. Train him, help him improve, etc. But at this point you hunt together. You accept his shortcomings, and he accepts yours. My old man used to give me a look when I missed and nothing fell. Enjoy it. It's far too brief.

We're having lots of fun with training. He loves swimming and water retrieving, especially when you add a duck or goose call to the mix. If he keeps this up, he will be a birds worst nightmare come hunting season. I will start live gun training soon. It's hard to believe I've had him for almost four months.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zMgQcaE2hhM





He has done this a few times in the backyard with a pheasant tail on a fishing rod... not quite a true point but he knows what HOLD IT! means.

Man's best friend.

You both look happy...good on you!!!

Enjoy!

Labs are GREAT dogs. I have had 2 yellow labs and a Chessie. They are very active dogs so take him for at least one long walk a day, on a leash. The discipline is good for them (heeling). Good luck. You look young enough to really enjoy him.
I currently have two lab/retriever mixes. Both rescue dogs. They enhance my life.
Peter.

IMO you are risking the dogs life using a check cord in the river current.

If he still needs a check cord at this stage of his training, get an ecollar. Teach him his commands with the cord/collar combined on land. Get rid of the rope around water. Turn the ecollar down when the dog is wet.

Keep the ecollar lessons fun. Your dog will hear the collar buckle rattle and come and sit at your feet, point his nose up to get the collar on. Fun things happen when the collar is on.

IMO.

A rescue/adopted dog is a fine option. Provided the dogs owner has an allergy or has to relocate. Some other similar situations also apply.

Life is too short to try to overcome ingrained or genetic bad behavior. If the dog is incorrigible get another.

Its a dog, not your offspring. Do you really want to put up with a no good dog for ten or more years?

My brother used the mouse trap thing on his dog. She was too smart for it to work. Traps are gone, she was on the counter. She could tell if the traps were set or not. I would never cover the trap with newspaper, let it hurt, your dog will lose the trap. Its a mouse trap not a wolf trap.

I break my counter surfers manually. I WANT the dog to know it is displeasing ME when it is on the counter. Set him up and stomp him, rolled news paper is just fine. Lock him out of his crate, you are going to stomp him for getting on the counter, the crate is always a safe zone. Never reach into a crate to discipline a dog. If the dog is to be worth anything on a wounded goose he will bite you.

Evan,

Give us an update after this hunting season!

Looks like it is working out well for both of you. As for the counter surfing, get a crate. Put Buck in the crate when you are at work. It will be good for him and your house. Later when you travel to hunt, use the crate when in route. It is much safer for you and Buck.
My 3 yr old stays in a crate while I'm at work and can't wait to kennel up in the truck when we travel. It's her 'go' place and she knows it.
Remember, training a dog is a process that is never ending. Lots of time, patience and repitition. I read something years ago that has served me and my 3 labs well. To get the most out of your dog, you need to be firm and fair instead of using force and fear.
Teach first, use repigition and instill and require good habits---both in the house and in the field.
If you want to get more serious, find an AKC club in your area that host/runs hunt tests. There you will find like minded people who train, hunt and hunt test their dogs. It will teach you alot. You will become a better trainer/handler and Buck will become a better dog.