Which do you prefer.....the VX3 3.5-10x40 or the 4.5-14x40, both CDS models. Why do you prefer one or the other? My only CDS experience is with the .3.5-10 and I like it very much.

Sorry for the off topic. But I'm looking into buying a VX3 3,5-10x40 CDS myself. No experience with the CDS. Does it work well?
Can you explain how it works?

Thanks

I use a CDS and after I called in the ballistics information and got the top delivered it did as advertised. I zeroed at 100 and went to the 300 yd range and dialed to 3 and it was a perfect elevation adjustment. I use the 4.5 to 14.

Hold on a minute lads, the problem with all these systems is that you can only adjust the elevation quickly and not the windage.

Choose the reticule carefully.

quote:

Originally posted by Ghubert:
Hold on a minute lads, the problem with all these systems is that you can only adjust the elevation quickly and not the windage.

Choose the reticule carefully.

I wish Leupold would develop their own proprietary MOA based reticle, with MOA hash marks on both the horizontal as well as vertical; something akin to the Greybull or Holland MOA based reticles which they install for Greybull and Holland.

Alan

quote:

Originally posted by Ghubert:
Hold on a minute lads, the problem with all these systems is that you can only adjust the elevation quickly and not the windage.

Choose the reticule carefully.

thats because bullet drops is a more consistant varitable wind drift isnt not youd need differnt knobs depending on wind speed..

I'd much rather use dials than to have hashes, dots, etc on the reticle. In challenging light they can be very hard to see.

+1 to what 700 nitro said

quote:

Originally posted by GSSP:

quote:

Originally posted by Ghubert:
Hold on a minute lads, the problem with all these systems is that you can only adjust the elevation quickly and not the windage.

Choose the reticule carefully.

I wish Leupold would develop their own proprietary MOA based reticle, with MOA hash marks on both the horizontal as well as vertical; something akin to the Greybull or Holland MOA based reticles which they install for Greybull and Holland.

Alan

Alan:

I have found that the mil-dot reticle (at least mine that were installed by Precision Reticles) in a 6.5-20X subtend 2 MOA per dot at 20X (the center of the dot, not the edge. I can't remember at what power they subtend 1 mil, but it is around 12X if I recall. Do the math (using 19.3X for the top end mag) and 7/8 mil (center of the dot) at 12X and you will see it subtends 1.96 MOA, close enough for me.

quote:

Originally posted by GSSP:

quote:

Originally posted by Ghubert:
Hold on a minute lads, the problem with all these systems is that you can only adjust the elevation quickly and not the windage.

Choose the reticule carefully.

I wish Leupold would develop their own proprietary MOA based reticle, with MOA hash marks on both the horizontal as well as vertical; something akin to the Greybull or Holland MOA based reticles which they install for Greybull and Holland.

Alan

I couldn't agree with you more, this is why I prefer cm clicks, or MilRad in other words, with mildot reticles.

If the shooting is dynamic in any degree it's vital IMO to have your adjustments and reticles with the same units, otherwise what's the point; you may as well use a duplex.

quote:

Originally posted by 700 nitro:

quote:

Originally posted by Ghubert:
Hold on a minute lads, the problem with all these systems is that you can only adjust the elevation quickly and not the windage.

Choose the reticule carefully.

thats because bullet drops is a more consistant varitable wind drift isnt not youd need differnt knobs depending on wind speed..

I realise this 'Nitro, my point is that I think the ballistic turret is more or less pointless as one can only dial in the one fixed variable and have to hold "Kentucy windage" with the reticle.

Hence the reed to choose the reticule carefully.

The ideal situation for me would be milrad adjustments and a mil dot reticle in the FFP. If you shoot and see that you miss 0.8MilRad right, you can dial in 0.8 milrad left straight way and take the next shot.

I don't agre with you on the windage. If you have them calibrated for 5mph increments. All you have to do is some quick simple math ie you have a 7mph at 1030 this makes it a .5 value wind or 3.5mph If your windage has five clicks for 5mph take it to that back up one and fire for effect. I personnelly would like to have the windage adjustedments in 1/8 so that I can be more presice on my adjustments for windage. If you have the time dialing in is the best way to shoot. Vectering off of mildots is accurate but has a fudge factor. Howevere mildot do have thier use and it really comes down to what you practise and are comfortable with.

I'm not sure I follow '93, I'm talking about correcting your fire solution for the fall of shot, not the calculation itself.

If anything working in )0.1 Milrad clicks makes things easier because the sums are decimal rather than fractions.

quote:

Originally posted by mdvjrp93:
I don't agre with you on the windage. If you have them calibrated for 5mph increments. All you have to do is some quick simple math ie you have a 7mph at 1030 this makes it a .5 value wind or 3.5mph If your windage has five clicks for 5mph take it to that back up one and fire for effect. I personnelly would like to have the windage adjustedments in 1/8 so that I can be more presice on my adjustments for windage. If you have the time dialing in is the best way to shoot. Vectering off of mildots is accurate but has a fudge factor. Howevere mildot do have thier use and it really comes down to what you practise and are comfortable with.

A perfect example of why most people shouldn't shoot past 200 yards.

The correct hold for a 10:30 wind is .707 to be exact.

I won't even bother commenting on the 1/8 inch clicks...

AZ The hold I described was .80 and you would not get any closer by vectoring with mil dots. I didn't say it was a perfect hold but it would make the small adjustment much easyer. If I was using 1/8 MOA adjustments I could back off 3 clicks and hold almosdt dead on. I would have no problems shooting out to 500. Any futher and I would need to find a place to pratice before I ever took a shot like that. Living on the east coast I will problly never need to shoot any futher (bean fields). Where youy guys live that is mid range for you. I have read some of your post you seem to be very knowledgable however, that does not mean that others may not have worked out something that works for them.

quote:

Originally posted by mdvjrp93:
AZ The hold I described was .80 and you would not get any closer by vectoring with mil dots. I didn't say it was a perfect hold but it would make the small adjustment much easyer. If I was using 1/8 MOA adjustments I could back off 3 clicks and hold almosdt dead on. I would have no problems shooting out to 500. Any futher and I would need to find a place to pratice before I ever took a shot like that. Living on the east coast I will problly never need to shoot any futher (bean fields). Where youy guys live that is mid range for you. I have read some of your post you seem to be very knowledgable however, that does not mean that others may not have worked out something that works for them.

93:

I will apologize for being rude in my post above. Perhaps 200 is a little harsh. But wind coming in from 45 degrees does not have half the effect. I have seen guys post this over and over. It is .707 times the full effect. If you don't understand how the math works, you need to learn it. Practice is king, but you can practice every wind speed at every range.

As for the 1/8 clicks, I just don't think that is necessary. I have learned at long range, with most flat shooting guns, you hold 1 moa into the wind if it even flickers a lighter flame. If you can measure it with an anemometer, I multiply the reading by 1.5 and generally hold 1 MOA per 2.5 mph of wind. That works out to about 800 yards. If I can read mirage, I trust that above the anemometer.

But the big joke is this: at 800 the TOF is about 1 second for just about every high vel cartridge shooting high BC bullets. In once second, the wind can shift 2 mph no problem. Guess what? You just missed the vitals. 800 yards is twice as hard as 700, and 700 is twice as hard as 600. And how many wannabees don't even live within an hour of a place they can shoot past 300 yards let alone past 500?

As for those who say they don't shoot at 800 yards unless the wind is calm, well guess what? When the wind is calm you generally get a boiling mirage. The risk of a bullet flying high due to image displacement is pretty high. It may only be an MOA, but that is 8 inches at 800 yards.