My comment was saying that there are many more choices in 6.5mm or .30 cal with better BC's

quote:

Originally posted by Randy Routier:
A old .270 and a 6mm

If you have all the time and energy to devote to this sport, you are miles ahead of most of us. You just need the expierence. If I were you, I'd begin to shoot what I had. The 270 will certainly go 750 yds. Start at 100 yds and work your way up. You'll know when its time to upgrade your equipment. Keep reading everything you have time for about long range shooting. Not just the latest whisbang new scope or rifle but how to hold, trigger pull, cheek weld etc. I just don't want to see you drop a bunch of money on equipment before you get comforatable with the shooting. There is always time to get the equipment.

I've taken deer and antelope in the 300 yard range but just wanted to go a little further. It looks like the 270 Winchester can get it done if I just get a good scope. Now the question I have to decide is what scope and bullet to use for the 700 yard shots. Where is a good online resource to learn the in and out's that I can read?

Hey Randy, If you go back to my first post in this thread, there is a Link to another thread on Long Distance Scopes. Or just look down the page and you will see it. That will give you an idea of what people want in their Scopes.

As far as Bullets, look either in your Nosler Reloading Manual and the Sierra Manual for the Ballistic Coefficients(B.C.) for the various Bullets. Pick one or two with High B.C.s, and see if your rifle shoots them well. Sometimes a particular rifle just won't shoot a specific Brand or a specific Weight of Bullet, it can be aggravating, but that just happens.

Develop your Loads using the never improved upon Creighton Audette Load Development Method.

And while you are doing that, learn about Converting OCL to ODL when Seating Bullets. That way, every Standard FL Die Set is actually a Precision Seater.

When Dry Firing, if you can feel your Trigger move in a Dark Room, with your eyes closed, while squeezing it as slow as possible, then it needs to be either Tuned by a "competent" GunSmith(which are often difficult to find), or replaced with an Aftermarket Trigger. You do not want to be able to feel ANY MOVEMENT at all in the Trigger prior to the actual Release.

Shoot at the corner of a Black Square.

And DO NOT forget to adjust the Parallex on the Scope as you change yardages.

Best of luck to you.

HC, I never though about using a socket to measure with. Makes sense since it is repeatable.

Here's MY plan on how to get started in long-range shooting:

There's another thread on this forum about a raffle for a Gunwerks long-range rifle in either 7MM or 6.5MM (my choice after I win it). My plan is to win that rifle and scope and case and ammo package, which according to the Gunwerks website is worth something like $6000 - $6500. Then I'm gonna take the two-day Gunwerks shooting course that's also part of the prize.

My total investment - only $40 so far. But I might buy three more tickets for a hundred bucks. I think I have a pretty good plan.

After I win it, I'll report to y'all on just how well it shoots at 1,000 yards!

If I don't win it, my plan B is to borrow my wife's .270, which is still unfired, put a scope on it, and start shooting.

But I'm really counting on my plan A.

Wish me luck!

Good Luck!

If it works, I will hire you on as my financial advisor and my lottery ticket picker-outer!

What scope are you gonna put on the .270?

Randy, regarding bullets, I must agree with BOTH Muggie and HC. The bullet selection is a little thin, but the .277 Nosler BT's, all of them, are great bullets. Dad and I tested them agains the 135gr Sierra Match kings in several of our .270 Wins. two custom, two out of the box, each capable of under .5 MOA and in every case the Ballistic tips shot better then the Match Kings.

The go to load for a .270 Win is H4831sc, with any of the ballistic tips. I've yet to find a .270 win that does not like this combination.
My two prefered primers in the combo are CCI 200, and WMRP.

With the rifle, I'd start with the simple things. Is the trigger adjusted. Is the barrel free floated, and does it need bedding?

On top of this, I'd mount the best optics the budget would allow. Good target knobs, adjustable parallax, preferably side adjustable, and a LR reticle. Mildot, TMR, Horus, what ever the budget will allow that you feel will work for you. I get the feeling this might be a general purpose hunting rifle, that can also shoot long range. With this in mind I'd consider something in the 4.5-14x magnification range.

Shooting from a wheel chair is an additional consideration. In that regard, if you decide to go with a new rifle, I'd pay really close attention to the rifles BALANCE. Normally I like the advantages of a long barrel, but for folks shooting from a wheel chair I prefer something with a point of balace further back, near the center line of the receiver. This usually means a shorter barrel. Ease of handling is a big help when trying to manuver a rifle in a chair.

I hope this is the practical type of advice you are looking for. Just remember, the more details we have on current rifles and budgest, the more we can help.

quote:

Originally posted by Sam:
HC, I never though about using a socket to measure with. Makes sense since it is repeatable.

Yes it is very repeatable. Especially if you make a note on your Load Data Sheet about which socket you used.

The Elders who taught me(all gone now) used them and I picked it up from all the Tricks they used. There is a HUGE difference in the Quality of Bullets, actually all components and firearms, available today from what was available way back then.

Best of luck using them.

quote:

Originally posted by kaizer:
Here's MY plan ...Wish me luck!

Hey Kaizer, best of luck on the Raffle(or abscounding with the BOSS'S rifle).

After reading all of your comments on the post I am kind of getting overwhelmed and coming to reality with some things. I wasn't lying when I said just a ol ranch boy and had nothing to start with and after reading further I realize I have even less than I thought. Is not bedded or floated. When setting up a gun and such do you shop around and spend hours looking everywhere for the best yet cheapest of whatever you need or do you order one ready to go from somebody reputable? What kind of money are we looking at?

Hey Randy! Don't get or feel overwhelmed!

Like I said in my very first post, use a rifle you already have and get a decent scope that either already has target knobs or one that you can put the stoney point add ons on!

A Leupold VXII 6-18 is about 450$ and the knobs are 30$.

Just get started! Don't worry about all the little things yet! You just need to get hooked!

Randy,

You'll need about 1K$ or thereabouts to start.

Whilst you are saving up for it read this and a few other forums on long range shooting, get your reloading gear and technique up to scratch and shoot at your rifle club at 1-300 yards with you're exiting guns.

At short range you can perfect your hold, breathing, bag and trigger technique and do it effectively with your current equipment.

Set yourself realistic goals in this respect, if your rifle is good for an inch off the bench at 100 for 3 shots then aim to be able to shoot that inch consistently at 100, 2" at 200,3" at 300 etc.

Look around for a decent heavy barrelled varmint/target rifle for about half of your budget and spend the other half on glass. Go secondhand and let the other guy pay the depreciation!

If you have the patience find a Tikka Master Sporter in 308 and with the right load you can reach out to 8-900 yards with MOA or better accuracy. They are fairly cheap over here, perhaps you can find one otherwise a heavy barrel Remmington, Howas, Savage or expecially an older Palma style target rifle can be had for almost nothing from the NRA/Camp Perry type guys.

In fact seek out a cheap long barreled palma style target rifle for a couple of hundred bucks, have a gunsmith fit bases for a few more, buy that leupold Rcamuglia is mentioning for a few hundred more and spend the balance on reloading kit.

You could have a thousand yard capable set up for under a grand.

quote:

Originally posted by rcamuglia:
Hey Randy! Don't get or feel overwhelmed! ...use a rifle you already have ...Just get started! Don't worry about all the little things yet! ...

+1 Exactly correct. You can learn a whole lot with either rifle you currently have. If you wait until you have all the Tricks of the Trade, the results will not be great, until you have a lot of good old Trigger Time.

Well Randy, as just an old ranch boy myself, I know a few things about the advantages that gives you. It normally means you have a place to shoot, and you go out and shoot. Possibly ALOT. Since nothing on a ranch fixes itself, you also probably have a shop, and are pretty comfortable with tools.

Freefloating a barrel usually takes about an hour to an hour and a half. Bedding an action takes a couple hours. In addition cost on both is minimal. Do a search in the gunsmithing section, and I expect you will find good instructions on both. They are not rocket science, and well within the capabilities of most ranch boys.

Also, just because a rifle is old, doesn't mean it won't shoot. Granddad bought his Model 54 Winchester in .270 Win circa 1933. At the time, it was the only one in the entire county. With a Lyman peep sight, it was a "long range" gun for it's time. To my knowledge nothing has ever been done to the rifle. Barrels not floated, (it has a pressure point), actions not bedded, but it will still shoot MOA groups for me, all day long, with iron sites. It's just an 80 year old ranch rifle that's killed more deer then you can imagine.

If you want to go new, the Tikka is a great way to go.



That was shot with my wife's Tikka in .270 win.
3 shots
Load is:
Win Brass
CCI 200 primer
57gr H4831
140gr Nosler Ballistic Tip.