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At this time I am assembling a 300 RUM with the purpose of delivering projectiles extreme distances. When I say extreme I don't mean 200yds for those of you with 30-30s. I will first become proficient on the 600yd ranges available to me then move on from there. The rifle is stock right now. 26" stainless, synthetic stock. I plan on going to a McMillan A-5, getting a good muzzle break and at some point maybe even a longer barrel. I have even considered 338 Edge but want to wring out as much as I can with my current setup first. As far as optics NightForce 5.5x22-56 Zero Stop 2X NP-R1. Picatinny 0MOA base on the way. Ideally I would like to be zero at 200 with the elevation at the very bottom of the travel. What I don't have yet is any practical experience. I have a friend that is great to 600 and recently shot a 5 shot group less than 1.5 inches. Now the winds were dead calm too. We Band of Bubbas N.R.A Life Member TDR Cummins Power All The Way Certified member of the Whompers Club | ||
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Any suggestions? We Band of Bubbas N.R.A Life Member TDR Cummins Power All The Way Certified member of the Whompers Club | |||
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Drew, The A-5 will get you headed in the right direction as will the muzzle break (though I don't care for them myself). Good on the longer barrel for extra vel. Great scope. Mine, on my BIG rifle has the 50mm obj but otherwise is identical. Zero pic rail is fine as that scope has 100 MOA of adjustment. Use a 100 yd zero. It's better to get an extremely precise zero at 100. A 200 yd zero has the potential to have some weather related errors built in to it which can show up further down range. You can then carry the rifle, when hunting, with the scope set at 200 yds. I keep my zero stop set about 1-2 MOA below my actual 100 yd zero incase a close shot presents itself and I need precision. Also, by coming "up" from the bottom for every shot, when twisting up, you keep things simple and the same for every shot. Though, with the NP-R1 reticle, you should learn to hold over with the 1 MOA hash marks. It's VERY quick and VERY precise Shooting tiny groups like your friend is commendable but with time you'll learn to hit in all kinds of conditons at that range and further. Alan | |||
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Alan, Thanks for the tips! I want to get very comfortable with it up to 600yd ranges available close to home. Some time next year maybe in the fall go to a week long session put on by the folks at Defensive Edge in Idaho to get better acquainted with extreme distances. Andy We Band of Bubbas N.R.A Life Member TDR Cummins Power All The Way Certified member of the Whompers Club | |||
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The first thing you must do is shoot tiny little groups at 100. | |||
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Hey Drew, I've handled over 2-dozen 300RUMs and though I did not shoot all of them, they all shot amazingly well. Those were all Factory Remington with the Muzzle Brake and were surprisingly pleasant to shoot. When you looked at that Case and thought about it, it was hard for me to accept that it just wasn't going to Recoil very much. But, the Factory Brake really works well on it and the 338RUM. It would be a toss-up for me to choose between those two for Long Distance, but I feel sure you will be well prepared from your list. I'd probably go with Burris Signature Rings and a set of Eccentric Inserts. They hold well, no need for Lapping and do not mar the Tube. Best of luck to you. | |||
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I have a Rem 700 ADL (blind mag) with an A-5 stock topped by a 5.5-22X Nightforce. Mount is Nightforce rings and a 20 MOA Picatinny rail. Barrel is a 26 inch Shilen with a Vias brake. Rifle shoots great. I once shot a 4 inch 8 shot group at 700 yards shooting sitting with a sling and bipod. If I had to do it all over again, I would use a Stiller action. Currently building a .338 Edge on a Stiller. | |||
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