Wendell, there's a fellow in the thread above offering a NXS 3.5-15x50 with he NP-R2 reticle for $1000. And no, that guy isn't me! Dunno if $1K for a used NXS is deal on your side if the dotted line, but I know I paid $1700 for mine including rings about 9 years ago. Don't tell me how badly I got hosed...scopes seem pricier north of 49.

http://forums.accuratereloadin...1022351/m/7381019781

I have used Nightforce, Leupold, Horus, and Sightron scopes on LR rifles. I had a zero shift problem with one Sightron (they gave me a free one when I told them). Not had any problems with the Leupold; I have one 6.5-20X that recently had a zero shift coming back from Africa, but I need to use better mounts before I blame the scope.

As for tracking, all scopes seem to track well these days.

In terms of a reticle, I like the NP-R2 reticle from Nightforce. The Horus works well, but it is too busy and in dim light hard to see. Also, it is a first plane reticle and is hard to see at lower magnifications.

Holdover reticles are okay out to 4 or 500, but they lack precision at longer ranges. Most guys shoot at even ranges, where they work well. But where to hold at 536?

I like using target turrets; I label them with label stock to make my own range delineated custom turrets - works great.

quote:

Originally posted by BigUglyMan:
Wendell, there's a fellow in the thread above offering a NXS 3.5-15x50 with he NP-R2 reticle for $1000. And no, that guy isn't me! Dunno if $1K for a used NXS is deal on your side if the dotted line, but I know I paid $1700 for mine including rings about 9 years ago. Don't tell me how badly I got hosed...scopes seem pricier north of 49.

http://forums.accuratereloadin...1022351/m/7381019781

Thanks. I PMd him.

If your are serious about long range shooting and hunting there are a few factors to consider. Of course what people view as to what is "long range" differs so this is not always of the same significance to everyone.

1. Quality of the optics - to shoot far you need to be able to see, so better optics are... well better.
2. Repeatability of the scope when dialling up and down - Many scopes fall down here and you need to have absolute relability. Clicks that you can feel and that actually move the reticle as they are intended to.
3. Ease of manipulation - you need to have turrets that are easy to dial up and down, where you can feel the clicks and they feel solid and where you can easily dial by hand (it's no use to need a screwdriver, coin, or fingers a third of the thickness that you do).
4. Adjustment range - depending on the rifle and caliber you may need to have more MOA of adjustment than a regular scope will offer you. Use a ballistics calculator to determine the drop at the range that you will shoot and look at the specs of the scope to see if it will work for you. Bear in mind that for example 85 MOA does not mean that you start at nil and have 85 MOA to use. When zeroed you will have used up some already. A way around this is a tapered scope base (or using inserts on only one of a set of Burris rings; the cheapest way).
5. How robust the scope is and weight - this depends on what the intended use is. Ususally the more robust, the heavier it is, so if you are a mountain hunter you may need to try to save weight here and there to get what you want.
6. Parallax adjustment - most scopes are factory set parallax free at a set range. Generally this is between 100 (most common) and 200m. For long range you need t obe able to adjust this as you will otherwise have an error in your aiming point. This can be on the objective (the scopes listed as AO models), or a side parallax adjustment which I prefer (sometimes called side focus or SF)as you can adjust it from behind the rifle.
7. Reticle - you need something that you like for long range. I don't like a FFP scope for long range as the reticle covers the intended target but some shooters prefer the FFP to SFP. I like a fairly fine reticle for long range and sometimes some form of incorporated aiming system with either dots, mildots, hach marks, lines etc. can permit holding over as opposed to dialling. They are very useful in wind.

Brands...

If Leuplod I'd say MK4. Otherwise NF, IOR. This is my experience, but S&B, March, US Optics, Premier etc. have a good reputation. I've heard good things about the top end Vortex and Sightrons. Most of the dedicated long range scopes are heavy - I'd say 18-22 Oz. On a light weight rifle you can go a long way with a lighter scope with a reticle with holdover marks.

You can potentially save some money by buying a fixed power if you are okay having a lot of magnification all of the time. There you can also look at the Super Sniper range (sold by SWFA) - I understand they are good, but I have no personal experience with them.

Buy the Nightforce and end the debate. You won't regret it and you won't have to hope you got a good one, it will be.
What's that saying... spend once, cry once?