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I have a Horus scope with a similar reticle but gave up on it for these reasons:

1. Too easy to get lost in the reticle; you think you are holding on the 3.5 line and really it is 4.5.
2. On dark targets it is very difficult to see
3. My first plane reticle shrinks to nothing as the power is turned down.
4. Windage holdoff is very difficult if you are not on a major elevation line; you are holding off into space.
5. The PDA it came with died and my BR2 doesn't display holdover in mRads.

Better practice is to click up and have a reticle with MOA ticks for windage.


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Posts: 7572 | Location: Arizona and off grid in CO | Registered: 28 July 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by AnotherAZWriter:
Better practice is to click up and have a reticle with MOA ticks for windage.


I don't struggle with it. I shoot a Horus reticle for a living.

If you notice, I was mostly testing this scope's ability to dial since guys always bring up what your brought up by saying it is best to dial. This scope will do it and you can hold for wind. I disagree with you about MRAD vs MOA also. Either way, I prefer to hold with the Horus (I don't even have to shoot it to measure that, just measured it against the tall target test) as it never changes and dials can from scope to scope and over the life of a scope.
 
Posts: 518 | Registered: 28 November 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by 7mmfreak:
quote:
Originally posted by AnotherAZWriter:
Better practice is to click up and have a reticle with MOA ticks for windage.


I don't struggle with it. I shoot a Horus reticle for a living.

If you notice, I was mostly testing this scope's ability to dial since guys always bring up what your brought up by saying it is best to dial. This scope will do it and you can hold for wind. I disagree with you about MRAD vs MOA also. Either way, I prefer to hold with the Horus (I don't even have to shoot it to measure that, just measured it against the tall target test) as it never changes and dials can from scope to scope and over the life of a scope.


I don't know of any rangefinder that calculates holdover using mRads. If one does, then fine, that works. Even better if you use the metric system.

I stand by my other criticisms. The reticle is too busy and too easy to line up on the wrong line. Sure, you can dial, but then why have the junk down below? On dark targets, it is just about impossible to pick up. And like I said, if you are not on a major elevation line, wind holdoff is a real issue.

I was a fan at first, but gave up for the reasons listed above. Nightforce NXS with a BR2 is a far superior solution...much faster too.

As for dialing, I found just about any new scope is pretty reliable. Then again, I don't shoot junk.


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Posts: 7572 | Location: Arizona and off grid in CO | Registered: 28 July 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by AnotherAZWriter:
I don't know of any rangefinder that calculates holdover using mRads. If one does, then fine, that works. Even better if you use the metric system.
I run a range card on a wrist band so for me it doesn't matter. When shooting tactical matches you aren't always allowed a rangefinder at every stage.

I stand by my other criticisms. The reticle is too busy and too easy to line up on the wrong line. Sure, you can dial, but then why have the junk down below? On dark targets, it is just about impossible to pick up. And like I said, if you are not on a major elevation line, wind holdoff is a real issue.
You'll not convince me of the busy reticle. That was my first impression but after having used it across SW Asia and here in the States, for work and recreation, I find it to be extremely intuitive. I don't have issues with ending up on the wrong line, they are numbered. As for dialing, I did the test to prove the tracking ability of the scope not because I like to dial. They offer other reticles like the Mil-Dot where elevation and wind holds together don't eaily work. I don't find the reticle to be any harder to find on a dark target than any other crosshair.
I was a fan at first, but gave up for the reasons listed above. Nightforce NXS with a BR2 is a far superior solution...much faster too.
Every time I have shot a match with a scope I had to dial with (before I went to the Horus) my partner always finished faster. At the time I was shooting an NXS with a MOAR and another with a MIL-R.
As for dialing, I found just about any new scope is pretty reliable. Then again, I don't shoot junk. Me either.
 
Posts: 518 | Registered: 28 November 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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7mm can you explain the "tall target" to me. Is that just a test of repeatability of clicks or do you measure it against actual ranges?
Thanks, Peter.


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Posts: 10510 | Location: Jacksonville, Florida | Registered: 09 January 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Peter,

The tall target test allows you to verify the accuracy of your adjustments. Just because a scope is supposed to move your POI a certain distance per click doesn't meant that it does. That is to say that if you dialed on 10mils of elevation your might or might not truly get 10mils. By measuring the target out at exactly what you are supposed to get per interval (in my case I chose 1mil increments for a total of 10mils as that will get me to about 1000yds at my location in NC) you can verify that you are actually dialing on what you think you are dialing on. In this optic my average came out to be 1.006mils when I dial on a mil and that is almost exactly what it is supposed to be. There was always less than .03mil deviation during the test. At 10mils which would correspond to the longest range the error was .015 mils which at 1000yds would be .054" which might as well be nothing.

For repeatability (you could use the average of the tall target test) or you could use the return to zero test where I dialed on 10mils of elevation then back down to zero, left 5 then back to zero, right 5 then back to zero and fired to see if it would maintain a consistent zero after repeated adjustments. The only way I can think to improve on that would be to fire a single shot at each adjustment so that you had the return to zero group and a group at each location: up 10, left 5, and right 5. That however would have taken another 15 rounds of ammo and I didn't have that much of the Federal Gold Medal I was trying to use up.
 
Posts: 518 | Registered: 28 November 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by 7mmfreak:
Peter,

The tall target test allows you to verify the accuracy of your adjustments. Just because a scope is supposed to move your POI a certain distance per click doesn't meant that it does. That is to say that if you dialed on 10mils of elevation your might or might not truly get 10mils. By measuring the target out at exactly what you are supposed to get per interval (in my case I chose 1mil increments for a total of 10mils as that will get me to about 1000yds at my location in NC) you can verify that you are actually dialing on what you think you are dialing on. In this optic my average came out to be 1.006mils when I dial on a mil and that is almost exactly what it is supposed to be. There was always less than .03mil deviation during the test. At 10mils which would correspond to the longest range the error was .015 mils which at 1000yds would be .054" which might as well be nothing.

For repeatability (you could use the average of the tall target test) or you could use the return to zero test where I dialed on 10mils of elevation then back down to zero, left 5 then back to zero, right 5 then back to zero and fired to see if it would maintain a consistent zero after repeated adjustments. The only way I can think to improve on that would be to fire a single shot at each adjustment so that you had the return to zero group and a group at each location: up 10, left 5, and right 5. That however would have taken another 15 rounds of ammo and I didn't have that much of the Federal Gold Medal I was trying to use up.


Why not just put the rifle in a vice so it can't move, then move the adjustments to see if they track against a down range target? That is what I do and it works great. You don't need to shoot any bullets. In fact, this is how I "converted" my mil-dot scopes reticle to MOAs so I can use drift from my BR2.


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Posts: 7572 | Location: Arizona and off grid in CO | Registered: 28 July 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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That is certainly a most viable technique. I get to shoot a lot of different equipment so when it is not work related I try to document it so others can see it and I only own Phone Skope adapters for my spotting scopes so showing your method for an online review is not viable for me. This test is also an opportunity for me get some trigger time where all I am worried about is flawless execution of the fundamentals; no range estimation or wind to worry about, no alternate firing positions, etc.

While the vice will work I also feel like it is more subjective because you are looking at a crosshair in relation to a reference point and judging how close it is. If I live fire it becomes 100% objective because I am measuring center to center of bullet holes and measuring them in relation to a reference point. To what degree of accuracy you need to be aware of in regard to how your sights adjust is debatable but I like knowing everything I can about a system before employing it.

I would say the only time you could not easily use your method for determining adjustment increment is when shooting irons. I learned about the tall target test when I got into Palma and needed my corrections in IPHY.
 
Posts: 518 | Registered: 28 November 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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7MM:

I was out long range shooting two days ago and it dawned on me the Horus reticle would be absolutely outstanding for F class for the simple reason after your target is disc'd you can instantly see the correction required. Of course, you can always chase natural bullet dispersion if you aren't careful.


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Posts: 7572 | Location: Arizona and off grid in CO | Registered: 28 July 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Since I was on the 1000yds KD range today I thought I would send you a picture of what you were just talking about. It is much easier to take photos with the Phone Skope but I keep forgetting to order the adapter for the HDMR. It was really windy today and I was fighting the bipod and rear bag to get the gun to stay on target while I tried to get a picture with my phone.

It all looked much more clear through the optic alone but even with my picture you can see the paster (about 3" diameter) to the 12 o'clock about 1MOA (the tail wind caused me to use less elevation by about .4MRAD than I normally need) and you can see the 1MOA X-ring on this 1000yds target. This was taken at about 14x so that I had the 11.2-11.4MRAD of elevation I needed with the reticle to make the shot with the 155gn OMT and 175gn OTM. The 190gn OTM only needed 10.2:


I originally dialed on the elevation and tried to take the picture at 21x but it was too difficult to get the phone centered up so I dialed back down to zero and zoomed out for this shot and picture.
 
Posts: 518 | Registered: 28 November 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
I don't know of any rangefinder that calculates holdover using mRads. If one does, then fine, that works. Even better if you use the metric system.
I run a range card on a wrist band so for me it doesn't matter. When shooting tactical matches you aren't always allowed a rangefinder at every stage.


I'm getting ready to put a tatical on a rifle as I have never used one before...so I'm in the learning stage. My understanding is a Milrad vrs Moa are NOT english vrs. metric but both are part of an angle. You want mil on mil or moa on moa...Right? That sight picture you are using may be a little busy for me to begin with...I'll go with hash marks or simple mill dots.


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Posts: 1641 | Location: Green Country Oklahoma | Registered: 03 August 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Yes, both are angular units of measure not Imperial vs Metric in terms of linear measurement. Both work equally well although I prefer meters and mils after years of shooting the two in the military; meters divided by mils makes for cleaner math than inches converted and divided by mils. I should caveat that with, "I prefer mils if I have a mil-dot spotting scope." If I am spotting with a spotter sans reticle I can more easily give corrections in MOA because I still "see" in inches. I can always divide by 3.5 and get close after coming up with MOA in my head but I prefer to just keep the same unit together from the start.
 
Posts: 518 | Registered: 28 November 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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