I have had for several years a Ruger 10/22 on which I put a bull barrel and restocked. After re-barreling, it would not reliably extract and eject. I quit shooting it and it became a "safe queen."

I really missed my 10/22, and was looking at buying a new one. I responded to a sale, but they had sold out. I thought to myself, why not finish your earlier project.

I did some research on the web (shat a wonder this thing is) and found that my problem was prevalent in many rifles re-barreled with target chambers. The answer, I found out, was a new sharper extractor and carefully filing the extractor grove closer to the chamber (but not into the chamber.)

I looked around the web and people's experiences with various "add-ons" and found that in addition to extractors people really liked bolt releases, extended magazine releases, bolt buffer pins, and hammer and trigger kits.

I read reviews of various parts on Midway USA, and concluded that for my purposes I did not need a full trigger group or a hammer/trigger kit. I ended up getting a Volquartsen hammer and bolt release kit ($35), their bolt buffer pin ($10), a titanium extractor and extractor spring ($10), and a Bell and Carlson mag release ($5). For a total of $60 I got the parts I needed.

My reading revealed nice comments about several different makes of .22 ammo and the oft repeated observations that different rifles will have their own preference.

I bought from Midway USA a "brick" of Federal American Eagle brand 40gr lead nose ammo ($19.29), a brick of Federal Champion 40gr (17.29), a brick of Federal 36grHP (17.29) and several bricks of Wolf target at $31/brick. From Fulton Amory I bought some SK Standard Plus ($29) which I have every reason to believe is the same as the Wolf Target.

On Thursday night, I got on the web and did a Google on disassembly of 10/22's, and came up with a wonderful step-by-step description with photos of how do disassemble the rifle and trigger group. Using these directions and those shipped with the parts, I disassembled the Trigger Group, and installed the parts. It was really simple.

I headed to the range immediately to see if I had cured my problem. To check the zero of my scope (a really inexpensive little 4x Bushnell on really flimsy .22 rail), I fired a mag of Win high velocity ammo resting on my elbows at a 10 yards target. It was close, but more importantly, NO JAMS!!!

It shucked cases like a red-neck eatin' peanuts shucks peanut hulls. I set up on some sand bags and proceeded to test the various ammo I had purchased. I started with the Federal Eagle, proceeded to the Federal Champion 40gr, then Champion 36grHP, then SK Standard Plus, and ended with the Wolf Target.

The rifle was shooting low and left with the Federal Eagle, and after the first group, I adjusted the sights for windage only. This let me use the corner of the boxes as an aim point which is for me a more precise POA than the center bull. With that setting the Federal all shot to the same POI, which was the POA.

I tested the SK on our rim fire silhouette range, and the 50 yard target was in line with the 25yd groups. The 75yd group and the 100yd group were essentially the same size. I believe that the 75 yard group reflected my poor shooting or poor rest because the 100 yard group in line with the 50 yard group.

A picture of the 100 yard group was not possible because the group was off the target having dropped @ 14" at 100yds with a point blank zero at 25 yds.

I would recommend any of the products mentioned above and any of the ammo, ranking it from good to best: Fed 36grHP, Fed 40gr lead, Fed American Eagle 40gr Standard, and SK Standard Plus and Wolf Target as equal and the best over American Eagle by a bump. I plan to practice with the Federal and use Wolf/SK in matches. It will require a slight change in scope adjustment, but what the heck.

The following photos are of the rifle and the targets. My observation would be that (1) she ain't a safe queen no mo', and (2) the .22LR ammo available today is extremely good.

PS: I am thinking about getting a Bushnell 3200 10x Mil Dot scope with adjustable turrets. Any feed back on this scope would be appreciated.

Boy, isn't it fun modding out 10/22's!

Nice report and pics. Wish I could have seen the 100yd groups. That will really seperate the junk ammo from the quality stuff. Just so few days with perfect conditions for testing at that range unless you can read wind flags like the BR shooters.

You are correct about Wolf Match Target and SK Standard Plus being the same ammo. Both are made in Germany at the Sk Jagd plant and packaged in different boxes.
The next step up in ammo quality would be SK Match and Wolf Match Extra which are also the same. After that medium and high priced Eley, RWS, Lapua, etc.
As a gerneral rule, the more you pay for it, the better it shoots. Of course there are always exceptions.

Since it seems you did a fair amount of research, you're probably aware of "RimfireCentral.com" If not, you should visit their site. They have literally 100's of guys who do nothing but mod 10/22's.

Landy

Husker,

I appreciate your kind words. The 100yd group was essentially the same group you see for 75yds; however, it was on its side.

Thanks for the hint on RimfireCentral.

I think my next purchase will be the Volquartsen trigger ($25) which people seem to like and I hope will take our some sponginess and I will enjoy the over travel adjustment.

You are right about getting what you pay for, but the Federal Eagle was a nice surprise. Kudude

Try Federal Auotmatch. I really like it in my rifles.

My little CZ Varmint in .22 LR loves Remington Subsonics--shoots in the .1s and .2s consistently at 25 yds. It shoots in the .4s and .5s with Lapua Midas L & M at 25, so you just never know which brand you rifle will like.

kudude

Thanks for your posting. I decided to redo a 10/22 a while ago although I didn't replace as many parts as your project did. I was wondering about the difficulty in doing a complete strip down on an older 10/22 that I had rebarrelled and restocked where the receiver had about 30,000 to 40,000 rounds through it. Four sons can actually put that many rounds through one in a short time when they put their time and energy into it.

I found some stuff on the internet also that was helpful and did a complete disassembly on it and found it interesting to see the quality and wear pattern on some of the parts, and replacing some of those less than wonderful quality parts with better ones. I think that you'll agree that such a project is easier to do than most of us think and fun also.

That same rifle had 3 scopes put on it and when one would go bad, none of the boys had an idea of why so!!!!

After that project the gun shot better and the trigger break was crisper and now after replacing the scope again it's a favorite shooter.

For 50 yard shooting, Federal 711B is totally awesome in my Lilja barreled 10/22 HB. True 1/2 MOA ammunition.

I broke the 10/22 down the other night and discovered that I have mounted the barrel slightly out of line. I loosened the barrel bolts and carefully re-mounted the barrel straight. I wonder how this will impact accuracy and reliability?

I am going to do a follow up experiment with another new 10/22 in which I intend to install various after market "pieces" from from least expensive and least likely to impact accuracy to most expensive and presumably most like to impact accuracy. I will test fire the new rifle after each "improvement" and report on the amount of improvement and any changes in reliability.

I was over a rimfire.com, and, boy, can some of those fellows shoot! I was blown away by the accuracy they are getting at 50yds. I don't know whether these old eyes can compete with some of those fellows, but I'll let you know how it impacts my toy. Kudude

I just bought an older 10/22 from a friend,I'm thinking about getting a new heavy barrel and new stock for it. Any suggestion's??

Wyo Elk

The number of barrels available for the 10/22 is mind boggling. They run the gamut from reworked factory barrels to true benchrest quality. The same goes for stocks and all other parts.

You’ll have to decide what your budget is and how much accuracy you want to buy. It also depends on your use of the firearm. Is it a plinker, accurate hunting rifle, or strictly a paper punching target gun. There is a point of diminishing returns where you spend many dollars, but only gain miniscule improvements in accuracy.
I have several customized 10/22’s. The cheapest has about $150 in it and my full blown customization has over $1,000 in mods. The $150 10/22 has the factory stock with barrel channel reamed out to accept .920†diameter barrels and sports a Green Mountain tube.
It averages less than .5†at 50 yards. The $1,000+ 10/22 will average just over .3†at 50. These averages are for 5x5 shot groups with quality match ammo.

If you want a quick cheap simple suggestion for a compromise between accuracy and cost, I would suggest a Hogue over molded stock with Green Mountain barrel. Butler Creek also has packaged stock/barrel combinations, but I’ve not tested those barrels. You always have the option of modding it out further in the future.

If you have the budget or want to go crazy, there are just too many options to make any suggestions. You will need to go to http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/ and do some research. I don’t want to take anyone away from this forum, but if you’re interested in the 10/22, it’s one of the largest forums on the net and has a staggering amount of info on 10/22’s as well as all other rimfires. As with all forums there is some misinformation, everyone has to learn to separate the wheat from the chaff.

Thanks Husker --.5 inch groups isn't bad for a $150. investment!!

kudude

What do you mean by the barrel being out of alignment? Are you talking about the extractor slot or the common “Barrel Sag issue�

Have fun with your test, but remember to fire a statistically valid number of shots and groups to either prove or disprove any accuracy conclusions. I’m sure you’re also aware that the barrel will be the #1 component in accuracy advancement.
That alone will create some interesting quandaries in your testing methodology since a barrel change also means a retesting of ammo to find what the new barrel prefers.

If done properly, you’ll have a lot of shooting to do. If you take shortcuts in your testing, at best the conclusions will be of a general nature. It depends on what your goals are.

quote:

Originally posted by kudude:
I broke the 10/22 down the other night and discovered that I have mounted the barrel slightly out of line. I loosened the barrel bolts and carefully re-mounted the barrel straight. I wonder how this will impact accuracy and reliability?
Kudude

As long as the extractor fits into the barrel slot and moves freely, you'll have no problem with accuracy or functioning, or reliability.
I have eight 10-22's I've been working on for the last 6 years.
The best accuracy I can get out of my most accurate 10-22's is 1/4" groups for 5 shots at 50 yards.

Don

DMB PM sent

Husker,
The barrel was just slightly rotated from an ideal alignment with the barrel block. It was close enough for the extractor to fit and function and was fully "seated;" however, it was not solidly seated in the barrel block.

I don't know what one would call a statistically significant number of shots. Clearly the more rounds fired, the better the data; however, I plan to fire two, 10 round groups at 50yds which each modification. I figure that ought to give me a pretty good idea of the performance improvement attributable to each piece.

It will be interesting to see whether it will be the barrel or the trigger housing group improvements that will create the most benefit. I suspect that the most improvement, at my age, would come from adding a scope; however, I am starting the test with the scope on. It is my plan to change the barrel and stock as the last items because of your assumption.

Kudude

quote:

Originally posted by Husker P7M8:
Wyo Elk

The number of barrels available for the 10/22 is mind boggling. They run the gamut from reworked factory barrels to true benchrest quality. The same goes for stocks and all other parts.

You’ll have to decide what your budget is and how much accuracy you want to buy. It also depends on your use of the firearm. Is it a plinker, accurate hunting rifle, or strictly a paper punching target gun. There is a point of diminishing returns where you spend many dollars, but only gain miniscule improvements in accuracy.
I have several customized 10/22’s. The cheapest has about $150 in it and my full blown customization has over $1,000 in mods. The $150 10/22 has the factory stock with barrel channel reamed out to accept .920†diameter barrels and sports a Green Mountain tube.
It averages less than .5†at 50 yards. The $1,000+ 10/22 will average just over .3†at 50. These averages are for 5x5 shot groups with quality match ammo.

If you want a quick cheap simple suggestion for a compromise between accuracy and cost, I would suggest a Hogue over molded stock with Green Mountain barrel. Butler Creek also has packaged stock/barrel combinations, but I’ve not tested those barrels. You always have the option of modding it out further in the future.

If you have the budget or want to go crazy, there are just too many options to make any suggestions. You will need to go to http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/ and do some research. I don’t want to take anyone away from this forum, but if you’re interested in the 10/22, it’s one of the largest forums on the net and has a staggering amount of info on 10/22’s as well as all other rimfires. As with all forums there is some misinformation, everyone has to learn to separate the wheat from the chaff.

I agree.

From experience with the Butler Creek combos is that I would recommend them highly. I have retrofitted 4 10/22's with this combination varying between blued and stainless and have had about the same results as you... .5 inch groups out to about 65 yards with the brand of ammo that it likes. My buddy has the Hogue stock on a Butler Creek barrel and does about the same. I like the Hogue softer feel that wasn't available when I changed out my rifles but I understand that Butler Creek now offers a soft rubber stock.

I think that if I bought a new 10/22 I would replace stock and barrel before shooting. I've run about 50,000-60,000 rounds through one action and after replacing a few sloppy made parts it's functioning great.

"I agree.

From experience with the Butler Creek combos is that I would recommend them highly. I have retrofitted 4 10/22's with this combination varying between blued and stainless and have had about the same results as you... .5 inch groups out to about 65 yards with the brand of ammo that it likes. My buddy has the Hogue stock on a Butler Creek barrel and does about the same. I like the Hogue softer feel that wasn't available when I changed out my rifles but I understand that Butler Creek now offers a soft rubber stock.

I think that if I bought a new 10/22 I would replace stock and barrel before shooting. I've run about 50,000-60,000 rounds through one action and after replacing a few sloppy made parts it's functioning great."
------------------------------------------------

TEANCUM

As I stated in my previous post, I've not tested with any Butler Creek barrels, but I have seen more than a few posts about problems with their carbon fiber light weight barrels.
Are any of yours of that flavor?

PS I hope your 10/22's have a preference for some variety of bulk ammo. With four boys shooting that many rounds, I'd have to get a second job!

quote:

Originally posted by Husker P7M8:
"I agree.

From experience with the Butler Creek combos is that I would recommend them highly. I have retrofitted 4 10/22's with this combination varying between blued and stainless and have had about the same results as you... .5 inch groups out to about 65 yards with the brand of ammo that it likes. My buddy has the Hogue stock on a Butler Creek barrel and does about the same. I like the Hogue softer feel that wasn't available when I changed out my rifles but I understand that Butler Creek now offers a soft rubber stock.

I think that if I bought a new 10/22 I would replace stock and barrel before shooting. I've run about 50,000-60,000 rounds through one action and after replacing a few sloppy made parts it's functioning great."
------------------------------------------------

TEANCUM

As I stated in my previous post, I've not tested with any Butler Creek barrels, but I have seen more than a few posts about problems with their carbon fiber light weight barrels.
Are any of yours of that flavor?

PS I hope your 10/22's have a preference for some variety of bulk ammo. With four boys shooting that many rounds, I'd have to get a second job!

All of my 10/22's have the older solid steel barrels and seem to give a decent return in accuracy for the cost. I've looked at those carbon fiber light weight barrels and thought about how nice it would be to lightened the load even a little bit, but I looked at the steel core that is actually the barrel and dropped the idea. I was not aware of the problems that they were having with them but it's understandable.

We do use bulk ammo and I figured that it was cheap honest entertainment for them, along with their sports, to keep them from finding trouble . One 10/22 has around 55,000 by estimate through it and the others are around 10,000 each. We would easily go through 1.5 (7,500 rounds) cases in a year at our place and we had a great time together doing just that. They are all gone now and my ammo supply lasts longer but actually I miss spending the $$$ on ammo and shooting it with them.

Mine also likes Federal Automatch about $10.00 per 325 {Wally world} if I remember right.
I used a Green Mountain sporter barrel it is fluted 18 or 20 inches long I like the way it balances and it fit in the Walnut deluxe {no barrel band} stock with a minimum of sanding.