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Scope a necessity for AK moose?
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I'd rather use open sights....maybe a .45-70.....just feel more up close and personal. It's a horseback hunt.

Would the outfitter be pissed if I showed up with that?


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Posts: 287 | Location: US of A | Registered: 03 April 2020Reply With Quote
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Originally posted by Bull Sprig:
I'd rather use open sights....maybe a .45-70.....just feel more up close and personal. It's a horseback hunt.

Would the outfitter be pissed if I showed up with that?


Necessary......no of course not. Prudent yes. Just one problem is if the moose is standing near a lake or river. If you don't drop the moose, but clearly it was hit, likely the guide will help. Especially if he/she has experienced the pleasure of processing a moose in ice cold water. Another issue, could be if much of the moose is obscured my vegetation. Instead of a whole broadside moose to shoot at, you might only have a 10" X 12" opening, or just neck or head shoot at. They can be in grass or willows six or seven feet high, and walking towards alders that are 16 feet high.

I am a big fan of QR rings. carry the firearm with the scope in the pack, and apply as necessary. Infact I will often have two scope in the pack low power and a higher power variable.

Also could be your only shot will be the last day too hunt just at dark, at 175 yards.


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Posts: 312 | Location: Alaska | Registered: 23 March 2021Reply With Quote
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Thanks for the input....you make some good points. I may look into the QR rings.

Background.....I knocked my scope off kilter on an ID elk hunt on horseback and missed broadside at 180 with my 300mag. Thankfully ended up getting a 20 yard shot a few days later and got it done. I don't want a repeat.


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Posts: 287 | Location: US of A | Registered: 03 April 2020Reply With Quote
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Rapidly getting talked into putting a different scope on my 300mag. I want something that is simple without a bunch of dials that can get knocked off in a scabbard.

Suggestions?


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Bull Sprig,

I've hunted quite a few moose and you'll be doing yourself an injustice with the 45-70. A bull that hangs up back in the forest can be impossible to see particularly in a low light situation. A straight up 3x9 Leupold will serve you well. Use a premium 200 gr bullet and you'll be happy.

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Posts: 13088 | Location: LAS VEGAS, NV USA | Registered: 04 August 2002Reply With Quote
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the two last moose kills I was in on were at or under 20 yards. one with bow as the bull walked damn near into our camp and one stalked to 20 yards with a rifle. The bull needed a 4th point on his brows and due to where he was laying we couldn't see it. That being said, you should shoot what you are comfortable with, it's your hunt and success isn't measured by game on the ground.


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Posts: 448 | Location: Palmer, AK | Registered: 17 August 2005Reply With Quote
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Handy capping your self with open sites.

Is no different then handy capping yourself with something else.

Bows handguns.

One takes their chances and plays the game.

If one loses and doesn't take their game that's life.
 
Posts: 19736 | Location: wis | Registered: 21 April 2001Reply With Quote
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I took a .338 on my first moose hunt, I'll take my 300 wby on the next. At what distance are you ethically going to call off the shot due to ballistic deficiency with a 45-70 on the last day of the hunt?
 
Posts: 135 | Location: Canton, Ga. USA | Registered: 30 March 2006Reply With Quote
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Thank you all for the input. Looks like it'll be my 300winmag.


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Originally posted by Bull Sprig:
Thank you all for the input. Looks like it'll be my 300winmag.


Joyce and I have both killed quite a few Moose. Used everything from .338 to 7RemMag. Premium bullets and good optics are a plus.


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Posts: 7625 | Location: Alaska | Registered: 05 February 2008Reply With Quote
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One issue is the problem of counting tines and/or judging width. Most units have antler restrictions, so that is super important. If you are hunting with a guide, you can rely on him/her to give you good information, if you are on your own, shooting iron sights, you'll have to hang on your binos until you're certain he's legal.

Lastly, if this will be your first Alaska moose hunt, I'd go with a scope. Would suck to spend all that dough and travel that far and then get skunked because you were presented with a bull you could easily take with a scoped gun, but not iron sights.

Nonetheless, I'd love to take a moose with my 1900 era Krag, with iron sights.


Dave
 
Posts: 927 | Location: AKexpat | Registered: 27 October 2008Reply With Quote
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I say have your guide call one in and shoot him with the 45-70/open sites! Much more thrilling and rewarding than poking one at 250-400yds. The last one I shot was at 43 yds with a 500 Linebaugh pistol open sites. It's not that hard to get close to a Moose. Any guide worth a salt can get you or the moose within 45/70 range.
 
Posts: 71 | Location: The Last Frontier | Registered: 03 January 2012Reply With Quote
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Is it more important to you to take a moose with an iron sighted 45-70, or that you take a moose? As mentioned it's not just the range, it's low light and cover that can seriously handicap you with an iron sighted rifle.

Depending on where you hunt and what time in the season moose can come practically into your lap, or they can be nocturnal and extremely skittish and keep a surprising distance between you and them.


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Posts: 7213 | Location: Alaska | Registered: 27 February 2001Reply With Quote
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I'd say it's more important to take a moose than shoot it with a specific gun in this specific situation.


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Posts: 287 | Location: US of A | Registered: 03 April 2020Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by Bull Sprig:
I'd say it's more important to take a moose than shoot it with a specific gun in this specific situation.


"Thank you all for the input. Looks like it'll be my 300winmag."

300 winMag has killed a lot of moose here in AK. Killed my first with one back in 92. Have a great hunt!
 
Posts: 71 | Location: The Last Frontier | Registered: 03 January 2012Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by Snyd:
quote:
Originally posted by Bull Sprig:
I'd say it's more important to take a moose than shoot it with a specific gun in this specific situation.


"Thank you all for the input. Looks like it'll be my 300winmag."

300 winMag has killed a lot of moose here in AK. Killed my first with one back in 92. Have a great hunt!


Yup, I'd venture to say by far the three most popular moose calibers in AK are 30-06, 300 win mag and 338 win mag and for good reason


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Posts: 7213 | Location: Alaska | Registered: 27 February 2001Reply With Quote
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Put on a 1-8 or 2-12 or similar scope and you cover most of it. I shot my Alaskan Yuokon moose on 72 meters. My friend on 312 meters... and as several said before you never know when and where and time of day.

Morten


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Posts: 1144 | Location: Oslo area, Norway | Registered: 26 June 2013Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by A7Dave:
One issue is the problem of counting tines and/or judging width. Most units have antler restrictions, so that is super important. If you are hunting with a guide, you can rely on him/her to give you good information, if you are on your own, shooting iron sights, you'll have to hang on your binos until you're certain he's legal.

Lastly, if this will be your first Alaska moose hunt, I'd go with a scope. Would suck to spend all that dough and travel that far and then get skunked because you were presented with a bull you could easily take with a scoped gun, but not iron sights.

Nonetheless, I'd love to take a moose with my 1900 era Krag, with iron sights.


I fully agree with the oftentimes difficulty in being certain of the brow tines. I am sure the higher X's can at times provide a bit better view. Though depending on the situation, it is sometimes been an issue 50 yards and under when they never give you the ideal view or bits and pieces at different times. Quite surprising how well a 16" beam with 9" plus tines can be hidden at close range.

I use scopes in the 1/1.5 to 4/6/8 power range with substantial field of view. I think my longest shot was about 180 yds on 2x. After a tense time of cat and mouse viewing with binoculars in the brush. Playing was that a brow tone or not.
Though I have used 6x in pretty low light with 1st focal reticle. An area that had 2 moose length wide openings, and I had an elevation advantage
 
Posts: 428 | Location: Wasilla, Alaska | Registered: 06 February 2006Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by Bull Sprig:
Rapidly getting talked into putting a different scope on my 300mag. I want something that is simple without a bunch of dials that can get knocked off in a scabbard.

Suggestions?


You can't get any more dependable than a Leupold 2.5-8 vxIII or a 3.5-10x40 VXIII, I have a bunch or Leupold 3-9x40's that have seen rough use and never move.
 
Posts: 5604 | Location: Eastern plains of Colorado | Registered: 31 October 2005Reply With Quote
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I used A Burris 4X16 Signature to take my B$C Bull in the Farewell Burn of Alaska. The larger power was invaluable in judging between two Bulls sparing at 200 yards away. When it came time for the shot I dialed it down to 4 power and made the shot with my .340 Wby. For me I had the perfect setup, to each their own. Good Shooting.


phurley
 
Posts: 2367 | Location: KY | Registered: 22 September 2004Reply With Quote
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Your 300 with QD Talley rings and a 3x or 4x Leupold will work just OK, but not ideal, anywhere you hunt..

I hunt horseback more than most as Im a cowboy and team roper, retired rancher, ranch raised, booking agent, guide, and other skills, can get a lot done in 87 years, thats two lifetimes! BTW big heavy scopes on heavy guns are not condusive to hunting horseback, too much bulk under your leg and big varibles don't seem to hold zero as well as a fixed scope..A jogging hose can turn the cross hairs,

I have favorite saddle guns and a set criteria..

1.Rifle must be flat under my leg for those 16 hour rides.

2. Must be of sufficient caliber for game hunted and in this case my savage 99F in 308, 358 or 284 would qualify. the win 94 25-35 or 30-30, a savage 99 250-3000 has been my usual choice.

3. A smaller scope such as a 3Xor 4X fixed Leupold. QDs, and a good set of irons such as a receiver or barrel mounted one standing will do.

4. No sling unless you carry it in your pocket until needed. Slings in a saddle scabbard on the gun have a habit of hanging up and your gun is hanging on a limb or whatever..

5 In a bolt action, a pre 64 mod 70 fwt in 30-06 or similar rifle. Lean and mean is what your need is..

6.limit weight to no more than about 8,5 pounds..that way you wont spend most of the day jumping up and down on your opposite stirrup trying to keep your saddle centered. Not to mention soring your horses back and having to walk out, but this is your guides job, but don't trust that.

this is for horseback hunting, spot and stalk or jump shooting..

Most of todays "horseback hunts" or transportation only from trail head to camp or camp to a spot to hunt on foot, therefore any outfit will get you buy I suppose..

A lot depends on your horse back skills, the greatest hunt in the world is riding under the high rimrocks, and jump shoot the big bucks that lay under the rim, no trails just rough country, when one of those big bucks jump up he will be close and you bail off and hopefully get a shot. I live for that kind of hunting, its where I grew up..I wish everyone could experience it..Coues and Mule deer..


Ray Atkinson
Atkinson Hunting Adventures
10 Ward Lane,
Filer, Idaho, 83328
208-731-4120

rayatkinsonhunting@gmail.com
 
Posts: 42226 | Location: Twin Falls, Idaho | Registered: 04 June 2000Reply With Quote
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Originally posted by Atkinson:
Your 300 with QD Talley rings and a 3x or 4x Leupold will work just OK, but not ideal, anywhere you hunt..

I hunt horseback more than most as Im a cowboy and team roper, retired rancher, ranch raised, booking agent, guide, and other skills, can get a lot done in 87 years, thats two lifetimes! BTW big heavy scopes on heavy guns are not condusive to hunting horseback, too much bulk under your leg and big varibles don't seem to hold zero as well as a fixed scope..A jogging hose can turn the cross hairs,

I have favorite saddle guns and a set criteria..

1.Rifle must be flat under my leg for those 16 hour rides.

2. Must be of sufficient caliber for game hunted and in this case my savage 99F in 308, 358 or 284 would qualify. the win 94 25-35 or 30-30, a savage 99 250-3000 has been my usual choice.

3. A smaller scope such as a 3Xor 4X fixed Leupold. QDs, and a good set of irons such as a receiver or barrel mounted one standing will do.

4. No sling unless you carry it in your pocket until needed. Slings in a saddle scabbard on the gun have a habit of hanging up and your gun is hanging on a limb or whatever..

5 In a bolt action, a pre 64 mod 70 fwt in 30-06 or similar rifle. Lean and mean is what your need is..

6.limit weight to no more than about 8,5 pounds..that way you wont spend most of the day jumping up and down on your opposite stirrup trying to keep your saddle centered. Not to mention soring your horses back and having to walk out, but this is your guides job, but don't trust that.

this is for horseback hunting, spot and stalk or jump shooting..

Most of todays "horseback hunts" or transportation only from trail head to camp or camp to a spot to hunt on foot, therefore any outfit will get you buy I suppose..

A lot depends on your horse back skills, the greatest hunt in the world is riding under the high rimrocks, and jump shoot the big bucks that lay under the rim, no trails just rough country, when one of those big bucks jump up he will be close and you bail off and hopefully get a shot. I live for that kind of hunting, its where I grew up..I wish everyone could experience it..Coues and Mule deer..


Thank you! I have a number of other rifles for different situations but my 300mag is the only synthetic which is partly why I opted to go with it. Mounted a swaro Z3 3-10x42 on it...gonna hit the range this weekend.


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